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Topics - ST98

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1
Central Boiler / Heat shield on 6048
« on: January 30, 2017, 08:39:53 AM »
I have a cb 6048 and one of the two heat shields on the door is way warped and has a hole burned through it. The one behind it is fine. I was just going to plasma cut a piece of steel and replace it. Does anyone know if it's some special steel they use on the door heat shields?  I need to move my fire a little further back I guess.

Thank you

2
Plumbing / The water hammer, maybe
« on: February 16, 2015, 04:00:21 PM »
This is the second year with the OWB.  Couldn't be happier. I noticed about a month ago what seems to be a water hammer when one of the zone valve closes.  I don't remember it happening any other time.

Here is the lowdown.  The oil burner has one pump and two zone valves. I have a second pump on my furnace that runs 24/7 from my water to water heat exchanger.

When one zone calls for heat the furnace pump comes on and off with no incident. When two zones are open with pump running and one zone valve closes while the other is still open I get the bang.  I've got two air eliminators on the pressurized side.  I don't really have any thoughts on why because it just started doing it or I just don't have any thought.

Thanks

3
Plumbing / DHW Question
« on: December 06, 2014, 05:56:05 AM »
After reading the different takes on DHW I'm going with a plate exchanger before my electric water heater. I don't plan on running my furnace more than the seven months I need it. When I shut down would I just continue to run my cold water feed through the exchanger or do I install a bypass with a couple of valves? 

Thanks

4
Fire Wood / Red pine
« on: April 18, 2014, 05:05:52 AM »
Good morning, any folks burn Red Pine or Virginia Pine.  I can cut up a few cord of each for nothing and was just wondering if anyone had any experience.  As much as I enjoy wasting my time I don't want to sit on 8 cord of wood that's a pain to burn.

Thanks

5
Plumbing / Pump shut off
« on: February 22, 2014, 04:06:26 AM »
Good morning, first I'd like to say 4 1/2 months of 70 degree house temps and warm garage temps. House has never been so warm and I haven't seen the oil man all winter. Thanks to all who helped me through the install.

Since it warmed up for a couple of days here I decided to let the oil burner cycle for 48 hours.  I disconnected the aqua stat off my heat exchanger to let it work. The aqua sat is set so when the incoming water into the HE from the OWB drops below a certain temp the furnace kicks on. Is there a way that when that aqua stat turns the furnace on that it turns the pump off that is between the HE and the furnace.  It seems if my temp from OWB dropped to low and the furnace kicked it would never shut off due to trying to keep the OWB warm.  We don't leave the furnace more than twelve hours so even if the fire went out I don't think the water would freeze in 12 hours.

Thanks


6
Central Boiler / Ash height
« on: December 03, 2013, 04:38:45 AM »
I starting burning my 6048 two months ago and I was wondering the optimal ash bed height? It's currently about 3 inches above the door and about two thirds back its about 6" lower.

Thanks

7
Plumbing / Zone valve
« on: November 09, 2013, 06:33:55 AM »
All is well with the burner but after dealing with a 75 degree house I had to try and figure out what's up with the zone valves, two.  They seemed to be always open. So I took the bottoms off and made sure nothing was hanging them open. Nothing. Then I looked the brand up on the Internet and they are normally open valves so when the power goes out they stay open. Which made me scratch my head as to why there was even zone valves in the house. The brand is automag if anyone has heard of them.

So my question is can you wire these so they have power to keep them closed and then the thermostat cuts the power?  Or do I put other zone valves in? 

Things could be worse the house could be 55. Kind of weird on a 17 degree morning sleeping with the bedroom window open to get it down to 70.

Thanks

8
Plumbing / Expansion tanks
« on: October 23, 2013, 03:46:58 AM »
Good morning, I have a question on expansion tanks. It seems that there are expansion tanks for radiant heat or for baseboard and fan forced heat exchangers. What one would you use if you have both?  Ill have radiant in the floor and fan forced in the basement. Radiant will cover aprox 1300 feet and attached between the floor joists.

Also I can't seem to find 1 1/4 pex fittings. Do anyone know of any place online to purchase? 

Thanks

9
Plumbing / Initial return temps.
« on: October 13, 2013, 05:49:17 PM »
I've seen lots of posts about the importance of return temps being in the 20 degree or less range. I'm not sure if that means in the initial call for heat.

 When I put a load on my furnace I watch the temps on the side of the furnace. With no load it goes out at 185 and comes back at 183. Wether it's the 50' run or the 175' both one way. When I put a load on my return drops to around 100 or so in a minute and then climbs back up to maybe 170 in a minute or so.  Then stays within 20 degrees difference or less for the duration.  It seems that initial slug of cool water cools her down. I put heat exchangers sizes in as recommended.  Everything else cycles fine.  These reading are coming off the valves I installed on the furnace for out and return. The water sensor on the furnace might go down from 185 to 184.

Is this ok? 

Thanks

10
Plumbing / Thanks
« on: October 12, 2013, 02:54:32 PM »
I'd like to thank everyone for helping me along. Finished the wraparound for my oil burner and after a battle getting the air out of it she's good to go. Just need to work on the shutting the firing off. The garage heat is awesome. I've done plumbing before but not all this stuff. My reward is to now plumb in my buddies OWB.

Thanks again to all!

11
Plumbing / Wraparound
« on: September 29, 2013, 03:33:12 PM »
The garage plumbing is mostly done and I'll fire up the boiler next week to see what bugs I have in the garage system.  Thanks for all the advice

Now I'm working on the wraparound for the oil furnace in the basement.  The furnace is a wiel mclain gold series.  I'm not sure how to wraparound the furnace.  Im gonna do the heat exchanger etc. but don't know where to run it into the furnace and out.  A plumber told me to goto the top of the manifold and push down through the oil burner circualator with another circulator and then tie into the copper. 

I've attached a couple of photos so I'm interested in any advice.

Thanks

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

12
Plumbing / Pump quality
« on: September 20, 2013, 06:43:28 AM »
As I start to learn more about putting my system together I end up with more questions. From what I read on here it seems three speed pumps have some advantages. I think I have all my head and gpms figured out for my runs. Seems like grundfos pumps hit right in the middle range of what I need so I could go up or down a speed if it wasn't right.

My extreme limited experience has been with Taco. Is grundfos a quality pump?  Are they equal to, better, worse than Taco or are they all pretty much the same. The thing about grundfos is with the three speed I can get pretty much use the same pump for everything except around the house furnace. That has a taco on it now and would like to keep it the same.

Thank you

13
Plumbing / To pressurize or not
« on: September 15, 2013, 05:01:54 AM »
Well I had a plan if how I was doing my garage until I went to my dealer the other night. I planned on pressurizing it. Three zones, two zone with one each 100k blowers and one zone with a loop of 20' baseboard. I thought I would put a pump on the furnace, come in hit my he and then back out. From my he go to an expansion tank, manifold and the three circulators. Also have my pressure relief and water feed in the system also.

They tell me don't waste your money on all that and since the height of my water will be higher than the height of my circulator in the garage, and within 40 feet of my owb, dont put pump on the OWB. When I come in the garage just go to my manifold and then my circulators and just out a manual bleeder at the highest point.  Just keep my garage circulators lower than my outside water.

Now I'm really confused and I haven't even planned out the furnace in the house.  Any ideas what way is the best way to go?

14
Plumbing / Friction loss 1 inch to 3/4
« on: September 01, 2013, 12:10:57 PM »
Afternoon all, I have a question about going 1 inch to 3/4 out of the HE. I'm going to bring 1 inch to the HE from the OWB. Then run out to two 100k garage fans. Each will have its own circulator.  My buddy has the same set up. When he came out of the HE be went to all 3/4 to the blowers. I was going to use 1 inch thinking more flow would be more heat. I don't mind the extra few dollars for larger valves, lines, fitting, etc. am on the right track or does it matter?  They are 100' round trip from the blowers with eight 90,s. 12' vertical head and was thinking of running them with a taco8.  I may be overthinking this but I do a lot of friction loss calculations on fire hose the same size and it matters quite a bit.

Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks

15
Plumbing / Heat Exchanger
« on: August 21, 2013, 06:23:38 PM »
Hello all, I've recently purchased an OWB and have to put most of the plumbing together myself.  I was looking for some assistance in sizing the heat exchangers.  The house is 1300 square feet with an oil furnace and it is 170' from the OWB.  The pole barn is about 35 feet from the OWB and 40 x 48 with 16 foot of clear space and then open rafters.  They are both insulated.  The house has hot water baseboard and the barn will have hot water baseboard in a 300 square foot insulated office.  The rest of the barn will have a hot air blower. 

I've done all the plumbing in all of the building but am a little inexperienced in the heat exchanger realm. 

Who offers the best bang for the buck for heat exchangers?  They seem to be pretty far spaced in price when looking online.

Living in Northeast Pa.

Thanks in advance and this probably won't be my last questions.

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