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Author Topic: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging  (Read 958 times)

Crow

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #15 on: February 08, 2017, 05:52:18 AM »

 I received an email from P&M a couple years ago saying to not leave the ash pan in the stove, just to use it to scoop out the ashes. But I found that it would push the ashes to the rear and potentially put ashes in the elbow. Now I just use the lid of my ash pail under the door, and pull the ash out with the rake/scraper tool.
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E Yoder

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #16 on: February 08, 2017, 07:01:58 AM »

Is there a baffle to block the ash getting back into the air inlet? If not it wouldn't be hard to fabricate one. The Heatmaster C  & MF series are like that. Some ash will eventually get over it though. All it does is make the air enter up high near the grate. If we have a "my fan isn't blowing anymore" call that's one of the first things I ask them to check. :)
« Last Edit: February 08, 2017, 07:04:44 AM by E Yoder »
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ijon

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2017, 06:16:44 AM »

Take the hose off the blower and blow out with leaf blower or air.
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puckerave

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2017, 09:00:33 AM »

Hi everyone I have a few solutions to the lower bricks clogging up. If you remove the center ones and use a masonry grinding wheel and shave off some of the curved part of the brick this will allow the ashes to fall into the ash pan a little better.
 I just came from a very successful Farm show in Ottawa Canada. We are now providing free of charge a Insulated ash pan plug to resolve the moisture problem.  The reason you do not see the moisture in the upper bypass chamber is the outer insulated door.   P&M will have them at your local trades show for free to give to past customers.      I also found that I use a small ice pick on a long handle to keep the air vent cleaned.  It is located at the very back of the ash pan where the air is first introduced from the blower. It can get blocked by the ash pan by pushing the ash right to the back. I hope this helps a little.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2017, 11:57:44 AM by puckerave »
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Maxnchej

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #19 on: April 04, 2017, 05:23:12 PM »

I have had my bl-2840 for three years now and I'm still struggling to keep the air flowing. I'm ready to turn it off next weekend and I know that everything is now plugged as the air flow is really bad and burning much more wold then I should. To say the least I'm a little disappointed with the product as this issue is really impacting the amount of wood burned and the amount of effort required to keep it going. Is it worth me calling PM to see if they have a fix for the issue?
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E Yoder

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #20 on: April 04, 2017, 06:40:32 PM »


I've never seen a P&M up close but I've dug into a lot of Heatmaster grated units . I try to trace the airflow all the way from the fan, into the ashpan, up through the grate, through the baffles, and out the chimney. A choke point anywhere will create slow burning which = creosote= less air = creosote... Etc. The problem doesn't go away til the choke point is removed.
But I may not be understanding what your specific issue is.
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MerrellRoofing

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Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging
« Reply #21 on: April 04, 2017, 08:53:46 PM »

Do you guys leave your ash pans in? How deep is your coal bed? 
Only issues I have is if the wood is a little wet it can form a crust layer of ash that will block the air flow.
I try to keep my coal bed small, so it is easier to stir/rake. And I mostly load my wood running east/ west so it stays over the grates.
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