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[Danimal123]

I noticed tar like creosote forming on the center of the damper door and oozing its way to the mating face. A few days later I went out and the temperature read-out was not on, I had blown the fuze. I gave the damper door a yank and it didn't budge. After really pulling on it, it 'peeled' free from the creosote glue holding it down. I had fried my solenoid to. I cleaned the damper door until it was spotless, but now, only a couple weeks later, its got oozing creosote on it again. Is this common a problem?

[tinfoilhat2020]

What are your temperature settings at? I know a few guys that run those classic boilers at 195 with a 5-degree differential this shorter differential and higher set point equals a cleaner dryer fire box and less creosote around the door in damper. I used to run a conventional that was natural convection with an air damper just like a central boiler and I made sure to take a paint scraper and scrape that flapper off about once a week just to be sure but I think cranking up your temperatures and lowering your differential will help immensely also burning green wood can lead to more creosote dripping out and causing problems

[Pointblank]

Is there an air leak somewhere that would keep the fire smoldering between burns? Door gasket or damper warped or not sealing? As d5 stated, green wood can make things worse.
Keeping the fire as close to the front door as possible helps too. The heat from the fire and hot coals can help burn off the creosote and keep the door dry. I ran a classic 5648 for 13 years. It would at times drip some out the damper but never had it stick shut. In fact, it still had the original solenoid in it when I sold it 3 years ago.

[Danimal123]

Is there an air leak somewhere that would keep the fire smoldering between burns? Door gasket or damper warped or not sealing? As d5 stated, green wood can make things worse.
Keeping the fire as close to the front door as possible helps too. The heat from the fire and hot coals can help burn off the creosote and keep the door dry. I ran a classic 5648 for 13 years. It would at times drip some out the damper but never had it stick shut. In fact, it still had the original solenoid in it when I sold it 3 years ago.

The wood I'm burning is dry hard wood.  I originally thought moving the fire farther away from the damper door might help by keeping smoke from directly impinging on the damper door when the damper was shut. But it only made it worse. Last few days I took your suggestion and kept the fire as close to the front as possible and it seems to help. There was already creosote on the door, but now it stays warm and playable so it doesn't glue the damper door down. When its not -15, like it is in Maine today! I'll clean off the damper door again and see if this technique keeps the creosote from building up in the first place. Thanks for the help!

[Danimal123]

What are your temperature settings at? I know a few guys that run those classic boilers at 195 with a 5-degree differential this shorter differential and higher set point equals a cleaner dryer fire box and less creosote around the door in damper. I used to run a conventional that was natural convection with an air damper just like a central boiler and I made sure to take a paint scraper and scrape that flapper off about once a week just to be sure but I think cranking up your temperatures and lowering your differential will help immensely also burning green wood can lead to more creosote dripping out and causing problems

Thanks for the suggestion, I turned up the thermostat to 190 but it doesn't appear that I can adjust the 10 degree differential. Just the thermostat adjustment seemed to help though.