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Author Topic: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process  (Read 19509 times)

slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #60 on: July 16, 2014, 08:03:38 AM »

I think I would put in something for a drip pan, is it possible to have it drain to your existing condensation tank and let that drain it?
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #61 on: July 23, 2014, 09:23:51 PM »

Hopefully someone may have some insight on this one.  So I am wiring my aquastat so that they break on temperature rise.  I break the circuit to my outside heat pump when the water temp in the boiler is above 130 degrees.  Everything seems to work fine as I check it out.  Now, trying to get the zone values going.  I installed a heat only thermostat on one zone it works as it should.  The problem is that I always thought white was for heat.  On the back of my air handler I have white coming out the back.  I connected everything up and cut the thermostat to call for heat.  There is nothing on the white wire, of course the fan is running and I can touch the white wire back to my controller over to the green and the valve works as it should.  I am wondering if I just don't understand how the heat pump system works.  I thought I should be able to call for heat, have 24VAC on the white wire which is tied back to my controller but for some reason it does not seem to be working.   Any ideas?

Overall what I am trying to do is use my heat pump until I fire the boiler.  Then if I were to go out of town I could pack the boiler full and when the water temperature cools the aquastat would close thus allowing the heat pump to run until I arrived home and restarted the boiler.
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slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #62 on: July 24, 2014, 04:03:06 AM »

Can you draw us a picture of your circuit, I'm useless with heat pumps but I would bet that Yoder or RSI could help with that end of it!
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #63 on: July 24, 2014, 08:51:31 PM »

Well, I decided to just use the green wire which is the fan.  Every time the fan comes on the zone valve will cycle.  The only issue with this is in the spring if I want to heat the pool and run the air, it will pump hot water through but since I installed a cutoff on my return side of this loop zone valve loop, I can just cut it off so no water should be able to flow through the loop.  If worse come to worse, I will undo the wire to the zone valve, but I think I will be ok with just closing the return loop cut off. 
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slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #64 on: July 25, 2014, 03:13:28 AM »

How about a manual switch for summer and winter to cut it off
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #65 on: July 25, 2014, 11:17:01 AM »

yes, that will work as well.
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #66 on: September 06, 2014, 08:05:37 PM »

Well, I am finally finished with my installation:  Here are a few pics:

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0673_zps90de7384.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
This is a pic of the back of the boiler.  I could not get my pipes up through the bottom so I built a box that I insulated and use self tappers to the back of the boiler.  Match the paint and it worked out great.  I can remove the top to gain access if needed.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0672_zps72b06fa5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
Picture of the pumps installed at the back of the unit.  I have logstor pipe going to the house and a separate connection going to the shop.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0664_zpsfd7ab9f4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10

Installed cold and hot water tap in the garage

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0663_zps5afb5fe4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=11

Pic of the old hot water tank from the house.  I installed in the building and connected it all up. 

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0662_zpsd46b75e4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Pic of the open loop design of the garage. 

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0661_zps2552128c.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13

Installed a mud sink in the garage.  Its nice to have running water now in my garage

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0660_zps13156fb3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=14

Pic of my heater hanging from the rafters

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0659_zps71dd55ff.jpg.html?sort=3&o=15

Pic of the manifold of the home.  The house is a closed loop design.  I have zone valves and a zone controller to all hot water to flow to the areas that are calling for heat.  I used two aquastats normally closed but will open when the water temp in the pipes is above 130 degrees which breaks the connection to the outside compressor for my heat pump.  This way if I need to leave for an extended period of time, I can load the heater and if the water cools, the heat pumps will work as if there was not any boiler ever installed.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0657_zps4aa135e5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=17

Pic of the water to air heat exchanger installed in my forced air duct.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0656_zps1f6999f8.jpg.html?sort=3&o=18

Pic of my home hot water circulator pump and aquastat.  The pump will circulate the hot water in the hot water heater through the exchanger until it is 120 degrees, then shut off. 

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0655_zpsb03b4e79.jpg.html?sort=3&o=19

DHW exchanger,  and mixing valve for safety precautions. 

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/media/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation/IMG_0654_zps62764993.jpg.html?sort=3&o=20

Pic of my little heater in the garage.

My installation was a little more involved than most but I wanted it done the right way.  I have at total of

Zone 1- First floor exchanger in forced air duct work
Zone 2- Second floor exchanger in forced air duct work for upstairs
Zone 3- Radiant floor heat in the Master Bath to warm the tile
Manual Zone- DHW loop
Zone 4- Garage Loop stand alone heater with fan


Separate building (Shop) is open loop with 2 manual zones:
Zone 1 stand alone heater with fan
Zone 2 DHW for shop

All in all, this is a very labor intensive installation that takes quite a bit of time if done correctly.  I am glad that I started in the spring and finished before the start of cold weather.  All that is left is to build my Shed over the boiler.  Every thing is pressure tested and ready for water. The complete pics of my install is located here http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jackiejohnson2/library/Portage%20and%20Main%20OWB%20Installation?sort=3&page=1
« Last Edit: September 06, 2014, 08:14:13 PM by EE Farm Boy »
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #67 on: September 06, 2014, 08:17:14 PM »

Now for the chemicals and water in the boiler.  I have not looked at it closely but the boiler came with several gallons or 1/2 gallons of chemicals.  I assume the directions are on the bottles? 

Also, is it best to use normal tap water from a county municipal?  I also have a salt water softener for the home, but I was not planning on using this water source to fill the boiler....I was afraid of the added salinity due to the softener causing issues?  Which would be best, normal tap water, or the extra soft water from the softener?
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Crow

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #68 on: September 06, 2014, 08:26:49 PM »

  Nicely done! :thumbup:
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slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #69 on: September 07, 2014, 04:42:40 AM »

I would put in 1/2 gallon, fill the boiler almost full with tap water and fire it up, run the circs for a couple of days, draw off a sample and send it in to our office, they will test it and let you know if it is ok or something needs to be done
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slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #70 on: September 07, 2014, 04:43:33 AM »

NICELY DONE EE
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mlappin

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #71 on: September 07, 2014, 02:16:14 PM »

Nice job. Was you shop originally a pole barn? How do you like the sprayed on foam insulation?

I insulated my barn with fan fold then with Plyfoil over that.
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #72 on: September 07, 2014, 07:27:52 PM »

Yes, the shop was a pole barn, 6x6 treated post on 8ft centers. Rafters on 3ft centers.  We decided to use the spray foam insulation this spring since we built the shop about 3 years ago.  It seals it up tight, but pricey.  It is a 36x50 15ft tall to the bottom of the rafter, top of the header and a 6/12 pitch gable roof.  It cost me 7k to have it sprayed with closed cell 2-3 inches thick.  Decided to go ahead an insulate since we made the decision to order the P&M this past spring.
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #73 on: September 11, 2014, 03:04:37 PM »

What should the aquastat for the boiler be set at?  It comes from the factory at 165 but I thought the water should be heated to 185? 

Thanks,
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slimjim

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Re: Portage and Main installation start to finish the entire process
« Reply #74 on: September 12, 2014, 06:56:54 AM »

Truthfully I don't know why they don't bump them up from our factory, they come pre set from Jonson at 165, please turn it up to at least 185 with a 10 degree differential, I run them up here at 195 and 5 degree differential, as long as it is not steaming out of the vent tube it is fine to run it hot!
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