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Author Topic: Heat exchangers  (Read 13369 times)

automan77

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Heat exchangers
« on: February 05, 2013, 04:42:29 PM »

I"m looking into buying a heat exchanger but am not sure what brand of type to get. My plenun is 13 1/2 by 201/2.  Any info would be helpfull  thx
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Scott K
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2013, 05:07:56 PM »

Sounds to me like you need a 12x18. 

It would have a slight crack on the sides daily taped and maybe a couple inches in the back..


I've used the same supplier for a while now...   
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automan77

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2013, 06:17:08 PM »

need a 19x20  175,000 btu  to heat my home according to my sq footage. 
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Scott K
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2013, 06:22:09 PM »

Wow, I'm heating homes over 4000 square feet on 12x18's sometimes


There is hardly any home that would require 175,00 btu an hour..  Most stoves couldn't produce that for more than 4-5 hours.... 

Where did you read that??
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2013, 06:24:46 PM »

I see folks install monster coils all the time, for what reason I'll never know and the furnace air will be flowing through maybe half of it..

For example theyll mount on top of the plenum, it may measure 20x20 but the hole coming put is 12x18, the rest out of the air flow is wasted
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2013, 06:30:01 PM »

Here is something to consider....

Wood is 8600 btu per pound

Let's deduct 20% for water content

Then say your furnace can reclaim half of that heat...   That means for every pound of wood you can capture 3,440 btu

So 100 pounds of wood would produce 344,000 btu...   That's less than 2 hours worth of wood if your home truly required that much heat

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automan77

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2013, 06:33:13 PM »

question  MY house is 1,685 sqft. with basement. do i double the footage for the size of the exchanger for the basement
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willieG

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2013, 06:38:51 PM »

i filled my plenum..i had to pur 2 smaller exchangers side by side..i think they are either 2 12 x12 or 12 x14

if your original furnace and ductwork were professionally installed, the ductwork is the size it is for a reason. i dont think you should be choking it down with tin along the sides (at least not very much) i sure am no heat vac guy so i did not want to change what the pros had done when they installed my system?

now, both mys sytems work good and even if i put in too much exchanger....it works and so does my original heat (if i ever use it)

and then again...i also believe you should never  hoook your indoor boiler to yoru OWB directly...but many do it and they say it works great. i think ..why would you change a closed system to an open system when the closed  system is designed to be just that...closed
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2013, 06:39:21 PM »

Playing with numbers here....   

A home requiring 175k btu would need 4.128 million btu per day

123,840,000 btu per month

6 month winter would require 743,040,000btu per winter

This is all just playing with numbers to realize how much wood it would take to produce that many btu per hour all winter...


At that rate and 50% efficiency, it would require 1200 pounds of wood per day

36,000 pounds per month

216,000 pound per winter.

Red oak is 3500 pounds per cord. 4x4x8

So if a home used that much

A cord of seasoned oak would last 2.9 days

10.28 cord per month

62 cord per winter



Interesting stuff, to me at least lol
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2013, 06:44:04 PM »

i filled my plenum..i had to pur 2 smaller exchangers side by side..i think they are either 2 12 x12 or 12 x14

if your original furnace and ductwork were professionally installed, the ductwork is the size it is for a reason. i dont think you should be choking it down with tin along the sides (at least not very much) i sure am no heat vac guy so i did not want to change what the pros had done when they installed my system?

now, both mys sytems work good and even if i put in too much exchanger....it works and so does my original heat (if i ever use it)

and then again...i also believe you should never  hoook your indoor boiler to yoru OWB directly...but many do it and they say it works great. i think ..why would you change a closed system to an open system when the closed  system is designed to be just that...closed

Where the flanges of your 2 smaller coils meet in the middle would probably equal the amount of resistance as a 1/2" flange on the side...   From my experience there I've never had any issues in restricting air to much and such

Your correct, one should never ever depressurize a closed system and tie it to an owb

Had a guy the other day do that and not run treatment in his stove cause it was stainless, his boiler was mild steel and likely ate up with corrosion after 6 years of abuse
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willieG

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2013, 06:45:04 PM »

i am under the understanding when you buy a furnace and if a heat loss is done on the house the furnace will be sized to heat yoru home on the average "coldest " day of the year in your area. if this works out to 150,000 btu then your furnace will be sizzed for that. so you will likely get buy 98% of the time with a much smaller btu delivery (and that means a smaller exchanger as well) but if you want to be sure you never have to have less heat than you set your thermostat at, you should size  your exchanger to match your existing furnace btu out put (at least that is the way  i was told furnaces are sized?)

like i said earlier, i am not a ehat vac guy but i have asked a few  and this is the away they described sizing a furnace to me?
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2013, 06:46:41 PM »

question  MY house is 1,685 sqft. with basement. do i double the footage for the size of the exchanger for the basement

No, basement counts for less than half

Sometimes I do 2200 sq ft manufactured homes on 12x12's, because there is no way in the world to get bigger coils in them

I make up for it with fast pump speeds and keeping the stove 180 or higher as a set point

No complaints so far......   I've been in there homes too to see how they worked, air was over 105 out the vents, house was warm
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willieG

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2013, 06:47:29 PM »

i didn't meet my flanges in the middle scott, i set one up against teh other so i only have the thickness of 1 flange. so i have three flanges..one on each side and one in the middle that was the way i could do it to get the least "restriction" due to the flanges
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2013, 06:50:26 PM »

i am under the understanding when you buy a furnace and if a heat loss is done on the house the furnace will be sized to heat yoru home on the average "coldest " day of the year in your area. if this works out to 150,000 btu then your furnace will be sizzed for that. so you will likely get buy 98% of the time with a much smaller btu delivery (and that means a smaller exchanger as well) but if you want to be sure you never have to have less heat than you set your thermostat at, you should size  your exchanger to match your existing furnace btu out put (at least that is the way  i was told furnaces are sized?)

like i said earlier, i am not a ehat vac guy but i have asked a few  and this is the away they described sizing a furnace to me?



The other day when we were discussing the empyre house on the video, it required 52000 btu per hour on the average coldest winter day in Ontario and was 5200 sq ft

Efficient home it seemed but still...

A lot of homes in my area have 120k btu furnaces, yet when I do the math, they would only require 40-45k btu an hour on our average coldest day

So I don't think that these guys get that technical
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Scott7m

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Re: Heat exchangers
« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2013, 06:52:33 PM »

i didn't meet my flanges in the middle scott, i set one up against teh other so i only have the thickness of 1 flange. so i have three flanges..one on each side and one in the middle that was the way i could do it to get the least "restriction" due to the flanges


I see


I'm just not convinced a little bit of restriction amounts to much...
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