Outdoor Wood Furnace Info

All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Pools & Hot Tubs => Topic started by: chillyhiker on May 02, 2014, 03:26:16 PM

Title: heating pool
Post by: chillyhiker on May 02, 2014, 03:26:16 PM
Soooo..ive have first year under my belt heating house hot water and garage...when I put in the system I ran pex to the pool to heat that also but im a bit concerned when I see posts about 3 way valves and aquastats and what not... is there a way to just run it similar to how I heat everthing else ? does it have to be so complicated?
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: RSI on May 02, 2014, 09:35:07 PM
It doesn't need to be that complicated. I would use an aquastat to protect the boiler though. You can connect the pump to it so it just shuts off the pump when the temperature drops too much.

I would put a bypass at the heat exchanger also. Just 2 ball valves are all that is needed. That way you can adjust the heat load to what the boiler can handle. If you skip the bypass, I would go undersized on the heat exchanger.

Another thing I would do it put it on unions so you can just pull the heat exchanger and take it inside during the winter. You can do without and just winterize it with antifreeze but just removing it should be easier.
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: slimjim on May 03, 2014, 04:53:33 AM
Be prepared to burn a lot of wood with a pool heater, I did one in southern NH on our 250 gasser, 30,000 gallon pool, all the heat they wanted, he burned 8 cord of wood all winter with his house and shop and when warm weather started he fired up the pool and burned almost 8 cord through the summer for the pool.
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: chillyhiker on May 07, 2014, 06:23:28 AM
Ok thanks for the replys and suggestons I think i have a better idea of what I need to do now. thanks
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: mlappin on July 26, 2014, 06:41:29 AM
It doesn't need to be that complicated. I would use an aquastat to protect the boiler though. You can connect the pump to it so it just shuts off the pump when the temperature drops too much.

I would put a bypass at the heat exchanger also. Just 2 ball valves are all that is needed. That way you can adjust the heat load to what the boiler can handle. If you skip the bypass, I would go undersized on the heat exchanger.

Another thing I would do it put it on unions so you can just pull the heat exchanger and take it inside during the winter. You can do without and just winterize it with antifreeze but just removing it should be easier.

I'm helping a friend get heat to her mom and dads pool, one question I do have though, come winter if you completely remove the heat exchanger at the pool do you blow the water lines out from the boiler with compressed air or if you use valves and unions so you still have a complete loop sans HX do you just leave the pump run from the boiler to the pool so the lines don't freeze?
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: LittleJohn on July 29, 2014, 06:15:36 AM
I agree with RSI, the reason it sounds complicated is that people have learned that you need to control the water temperature that is going back to the boiler, because a pool is a HUGE BTU load.  If you do not control temperature going back to boiler, you can drop the temperature of the water jacket to a point where condensation forms, which is BAD
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: fireboss on July 29, 2014, 07:10:29 PM
Burn pine in the summer to heat the pools the tree guys would probly drop it of for free they pay to get rid of it!
Title: Re: heating pool
Post by: patvetzal on March 22, 2017, 08:56:29 AM
Make sure that you insulate the pool walls as well, above or below ground, doesn't matter, still makes a huge difference. Use 1-2" styrofoam, not bubble wrap