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Author Topic: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie  (Read 17418 times)

lugnut

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Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« on: November 15, 2011, 03:37:41 PM »


I suppose I should just go to the archives to look this info up, but I might want a "fresh" prospective on this.  Okay, so the temps were a bit balmy today..I suppose in the upper 50s.  I let the fire die out and decided that although the furnace has only been running since October 28th, it was time to do some TLC to it.

I cleaned out the ash box thoroughly, I scrapped away as much built up creosote that I could "without" crawling into the darn firebox (anyone have any thoughts on how to clean the creosote out that's way in the rear of the firebox?), then I went up to the chimney...had to "knock" the spark arrester off and have decided that it WILL be remaining off.  Then I looked down inside the stack..holy creosote bat man!  come on ...this has only been burning now for going on three weeks as of this Friday.

Off I go to Menard's to get a brush.  I asked the sales guy there, " my stack is 5" in diameter and I don't see any on the shelf for that size, so do you recommend I buy the 6"?  He says yes because that way I can get the stack cleaner.  Pardon the pun, but the 6" brush don't cut it.   :bash:  I didn't even try to force it in as I knew just what would happen.

So is there such a beast as a 5" brush?  Guess I could try Fleet Farm.  Anyway, long story short, I did get it cleaned out but not with a brush.  A long stiff fiberglass pole (4') does wonders.

So now I'm needing to know how I got the creosote build up in only three shorts weeks.  The red oak I'm burning is from 7 trees that were cut down six years ago.  In the summer the wood is exposed to the sun/wind; in the winter I leave it covered by a tarp.  I would have thought that by now this wood would have been dried?  Yeah I remember a fellow from WV saying something to the effect that even if it is six years old, unless it is covered by a building yet still allowing the air to go between the stacks...then it isn't dry.  WTH?

As always I thank you in advance for your responses/suggestions/ideas.  but please be gentle, we all had to start somewhere regarding the OWBs.

Lugnut 
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Jerry
Greenleaf, Wisconsin
Shaver Pro series 250 - Installed 10/28/2011
Cub Cadet / Yanmar 2450  sub-compact tractor
Husquvarna 455 Rancher
1999 Ford F-150 4x4 w/207k miles

willieG

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2011, 04:06:39 PM »

as far as i am concerned unless you are worried about a spark getting out of your chimney the spark arrester is part of the problem (just my thoughts) i have a 8 inch black iron pipe for a chimney about 12 feet long and insulated for the first 8 feet i am entering year 11 and have never cleaned it so to speak. Once a week when i am near by the stove and the aquastat calls for heat and the draft fan kicks in, i open the door about an inch or two and let that fire roar right up the chimney. the creosete burns and turns to balck ash and spews out the top for a few minutes. when the furnace reaches shut off temps i close the door and thats it for another week or two.

this may not work for everyone as it depends on your roof over the stove if you have one (mine is tin) and if you have wind blowing towards any other buildings at the time you decide to "hot sweep" your chimney.

you will have much more creosete build up in this warm weather as your stove is "idling" more that it is acutally burning

i am not a big fan of these caps as they are in the wind and the smoke (unburnt gas) can cool and turn to that sticky goo we all hate as soon as it comes in contact with the cap and cause you all kinds of trouble.

there may be those on this forum that know better how to use them but like i said, i don't have one and don't need one where my OWB is located. someone with the knowledge of experience may be able to help you on keeping it in use?
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Bull

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2011, 04:10:42 PM »

When smoke from the fire drops to about 300 degrees it turns to creosote so when the stove is just idling you will get more buildup. Try leaving the ash door open a little every couple of days for a few minutes to keep it burned out. A roaring fire for a few minutes should do the trick.   
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lugnut

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2011, 04:43:00 PM »

as far as i am concerned unless you are worried about a spark getting out of your chimney the spark arrester is part of the problem (just my thoughts) i have a 8 inch black iron pipe for a chimney about 12 feet long and insulated for the first 8 feet i am entering year 11 and have never cleaned it so to speak. Once a week when i am near by the stove and the aquastat calls for heat and the draft fan kicks in, i open the door about an inch or two and let that fire roar right up the chimney. the creosete burns and turns to balck ash and spews out the top for a few minutes. when the furnace reaches shut off temps i close the door and thats it for another week or two.

this may not work for everyone as it depends on your roof over the stove if you have one (mine is tin) and if you have wind blowing towards any other buildings at the time you decide to "hot sweep" your chimney.

you will have much more creosete build up in this warm weather as your stove is "idling" more that it is acutally burning

i am not a big fan of these caps as they are in the wind and the smoke (unburnt gas) can cool and turn to that sticky goo we all hate as soon as it comes in contact with the cap and cause you all kinds of trouble.

there may be those on this forum that know better how to use them but like i said, i don't have one and don't need one where my OWB is located. someone with the knowledge of experience may be able to help you on keeping it in use?

 :thumbup:YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!!!!!  I decided after looking at all the creosote build up on the arrester that it is getting tossed, in fact I didn't even attempt to put it back on.  I've seen the furnace in action and I've not seen one spark fly out of it....knock on wood.

I "thought" maybe the warm weather had some bearing on my issues, but as I said, I'm new to this wood burning thingy and I'm sitting here reading and writing and asking questions and taking it ALL in. 

Well I have a Ranco 111000 on its way to me and Shaver sent me the auto damper that i will install this weekend.  I like the idea of opening the door and letting the fire roar and then closing down again.  I thought for certain it had to do with my red oak....that I just KNOW is dry.. 

The roof of my Shaver is corrugated tin...which I plan on changing over next Spring.  When I put that arrester on I thought for a bit that that cap is going to be blocking a good bit of the ventilation or draft....but I thought I;d give it a whirl.  My main concern was catching leaves on fire.

thank you so much for your response and assistance.   :post:

Jerry
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Jerry
Greenleaf, Wisconsin
Shaver Pro series 250 - Installed 10/28/2011
Cub Cadet / Yanmar 2450  sub-compact tractor
Husquvarna 455 Rancher
1999 Ford F-150 4x4 w/207k miles

powerstroke

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2011, 04:45:29 PM »

Get that damper actuator on there and your problem will disappear.  With that slide damper only open a little bit you can't get a major fire going and it makes for a bunch of buildup in the flue. Oh and your black slime dripping will cease altogether also!  Done been there..........
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lugnut

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2011, 04:46:52 PM »

When smoke from the fire drops to about 300 degrees it turns to creosote so when the stove is just idling you will get more buildup. Try leaving the ash door open a little every couple of days for a few minutes to keep it burned out. A roaring fire for a few minutes should do the trick.

 :post:

Thank you Joe...quick question regarding the the ash door...until I get my auto damper installed, do I close the cover on the blower to 1/4" or leave it half way open.  I ask this because it too will cause a draft, although maybe not a large enough one.

Thank you again.  THIS is why I come here...you guys are the greatest, but now don't let it go to your heads.   ;D

Jerry
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Jerry
Greenleaf, Wisconsin
Shaver Pro series 250 - Installed 10/28/2011
Cub Cadet / Yanmar 2450  sub-compact tractor
Husquvarna 455 Rancher
1999 Ford F-150 4x4 w/207k miles

MattyNH

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2011, 06:43:56 PM »

Chimney fires are the best way to clean it out..I don't have a spark arrestor on my chimney.. Because I don't have one..I do notice burnt holes in my traps  that cover my wood lol...Lugnut ..6 year old oak wood..Your fine lol
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Scott7m

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2011, 08:22:26 PM »

Matty is right, no better way to clean than a big roaring fire.  Scraping is ok but nothing like a good pop box or cardboard fire lol
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lugnut

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2011, 08:32:18 AM »

Powerstroke, Matty, Scott, Bull, Willie....thank you so much for your responses.  The spark arrester is sitting by the side of my woods as I type.  I should have put it out in the trash last night.  I'm going over to a friend's hose tonight to have him re-do the darn disc cover for the auto damper and then it will get attached and wired up to the blower motor real soon. 

I saw earlier on one posting/photo where the fellow took the motor and remounted it so that the squirrel cage (fan blades) were facing upwards, thus when the flap closed on the auto damper, it would ensure a tighter closure of the flap as to NOT allow air leakage.  If not going this route, my question is this: if mounted vertical as it comes from the plant, how tight is the flap when it closes down?  Do any of you use a small magnet so that the flap does close tight?

Sorry my responses are so lengthy, it's just that when I thank some one for a response, then I think of something else.  Hopefully I'm not boring you guys.... I really do appreciate any and all assistance.  This is how I am with almost everything in my life.  Not everyone has all the answers, although I have a couple friends here who think they know every thing and all things...



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Jerry
Greenleaf, Wisconsin
Shaver Pro series 250 - Installed 10/28/2011
Cub Cadet / Yanmar 2450  sub-compact tractor
Husquvarna 455 Rancher
1999 Ford F-150 4x4 w/207k miles

willieG

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2011, 05:02:17 PM »

I built my own for my home built stove...i have a box on teh side of my stove that has a small rod going into it tothe flapper..the other end of the rod is on my solenoid and the blower is on the outside of the box blowing in. the flapper is inside the box on about a 45 degree slant so when the solenoid drops the flapper it slams down tight on the opening into the stove. there is no room for wair leakeage around the flapper.
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lugnut

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Re: Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2011, 09:07:22 AM »

Another question.....so I emailed Shaver and mentioned to them, " y'all sent out the auto damper but no directions on how to hook this thing up or even where to hook it up to?"  Their reply, "sorry we do not include instructions with our auto dampers."  Really????

Well my reply to them was somewhat pleasant, sort of.  I did mention that I had been holding off writing a letter to Mr. Billy Shaver, but following the last comment/email that I received from them yesterday, the letter will be going out in the mail Saturday.  and yeah, I know he could probably give a rats behind regarding his plant people and the fabrication, but At least I will get it off my chest.  I have told one of these folks that I stood behind their product; but has all changed since receiving the auto damper last Friday.  One should NOT have to clean up others mistakes...when one orders something up that is to be mounted to something else, that item "should" be ready to get mounted when received.  One should NOT have to make mods to it or correct others sloppy work to get said item to operate.   :bash:   And yes I do have email replies as well as photos.

So, back to my initial question that I almost forgot to ask, how and where does this auto damper get connected to?  Pictures and instructions would be good....I'm not an electrician, never was and never played one on the tellie.

Again, thank you in advance.

Lugnut
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Jerry
Greenleaf, Wisconsin
Shaver Pro series 250 - Installed 10/28/2011
Cub Cadet / Yanmar 2450  sub-compact tractor
Husquvarna 455 Rancher
1999 Ford F-150 4x4 w/207k miles