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Author Topic: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD  (Read 538 times)

E Yoder

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2017, 05:27:32 AM »

I'd like to here RSI's opinion. Just from my experience I think one run could work.
 I'm trying to think how you would do a second run and heat two different loads, would have to do P/S? separate circ from the boiler in, then tee off to the manifold pumps. I'd be a little hesitant to let the manifold pumps pull water that far, risks cavitation.
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GUSWHIT

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #16 on: May 11, 2017, 11:47:36 AM »

The plate exchanger is a 30 plate, 1 1/4" ports, 5"x12".  If I were to use both main lines from the OWB, I would definitely run 2 supply pumps as well.  Since I am at work, I do not have the exact dimensions of the Logstar 1 1/4" pipe.  I want this to work efficiently, but I don't want to end up using a boat load of electricity either though.  I thought maybe I could run the infloor heat manifolds on 1 main line and the DHW and furnace on the other , but then after more research(possibly incorrect) it appears that I may be able to run it all on 1?????????????  I just don't want to have to do it twice!  Perhaps there is a way to run the infloor manifold pumps on 1 line and not run the main circulator until the infloor calls for more heat and the 3 way valve opens calling for hot water??????????????  Of course, maybe this is just not a cost effective thing to be doing either.
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RSI

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #17 on: May 11, 2017, 07:29:54 PM »

I don't see any reason it won't work to put everything on the same line. When you get a chance, measure the ID of the logstor and post it.
I think an ECM pump would be enough. If it ends up being too small, you could add another in series and still use a lot less power than a large non ecm pump would use.
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E Yoder

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #18 on: May 12, 2017, 08:31:07 AM »

That's about where I was heading. I'd do one line with an Alpha, then see how it works through a cold winter and add another Alpha in series if needed. I'll bet you won't.
You may have mentioned this but what is the total sq footage of both infloor slabs? Depending on the surface area of the floor you may be nowhere close to maxing out one line.
It might sound like I'm being too vague but without knowing the exact heat loss of the buildings pump sizing is a bit of a guess. To me, the small chance of needing to swap or add another pump after one winter is worth it to see if you can save some electricity. With an oversized pump you'll never know.
And having a spare Alpha on hand that can replace any of them is nice too.
Just my opinion.
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GUSWHIT

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #19 on: May 12, 2017, 11:53:05 AM »

The garage is 1464 square ft, with 11' side walls.    Basement is 2374 square ft with 9' walls.  1 wall of the basement is a walk out, 45' long.  3 windows-36"x54" and a patio door-72"x82".  Wall is 2x6 with R-21 insulation, no other windows/doors in basement.  Not really going to worry about keeping garage real warm, mostly to keep truck/car thawed in the winter-perhaps around 50 deg.  With 3 garage doors(9'x8') it would be tough to keep real warm.  Garage door company claims an R-13, just don't buy that when there is only 1 1/2" of insulation sandwiched in there.  Floors are 5" concrete with 2" foam taped in place, vapor barrier under that and at least 6" of 3/8" clean chips I smoothed under that.  Also have 2" foam glued to the foundation on the inside down 4' for a thermal break.  I forgot to measure the Logstar last night when I got home.  Maybe I can find it on my paperwork(doubtful).  Just got my 1 1/4" copper pipe in this morning so maybe I can start the inside piping.
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E Yoder

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #20 on: May 12, 2017, 06:53:09 PM »

Just looking at the sq footage... Radiant is limited to about 30 btu's per sq ft unless you run the slab surface temp over 85 ℉. Garage could do some more with the cooler temp walls/ ceiling.
So realistically the two slabs together can't pull more than 115,000 btu's total except on a cold startup. So add that to the 100,000 the forced air can pull... Am I thinking right?
I think a single 1 1/4" line with an Alpha should be fine. Some water may recirc back the second time through the floor but that's OK.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2017, 07:11:01 PM by E Yoder »
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GUSWHIT

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #21 on: May 15, 2017, 01:19:12 PM »

Measured inside pipe the best I could without a micrometer, it appears that it is 1 1/8" inside.  It is slightly deformed, and I was twisting it around to get an accurate measurement with my tape, but again, not a micrometer.  Hope this helps.
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RSI

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #22 on: May 15, 2017, 02:09:45 PM »

If it is Logstor brand then it should be 1.032" or 1.280". There is a huge difference between the two as far as head pressure.
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GUSWHIT

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Re: FIGUREING PUMP HEAD
« Reply #23 on: May 16, 2017, 11:58:47 AM »

Well, I guess I'll cut off a chunk farther back and bring home a micrometer, but it should be 1.280 inches as you say.  The piece I was trying to measure was an end that has had a deformity from being cut and tied up against the wall for some time.
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