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16
Fire Wood / Re: Any Tricks to Burning Green Wood
« on: December 18, 2014, 05:57:58 PM »I'm the opposite of Andy. I burn the greener stuff when I have more of a demand for heat than usual. If I burn green wood in the shoulder months my fire will go out due to the longer idle times.
Agreed. If I burn green or low coaling wood like boxelder it has a hard time holding coals compared to dry elm.
17
Fire Wood / Re: Any Tricks to Burning Green Wood
« on: December 18, 2014, 05:57:16 PM »I'm the opposite of Andy. I burn the greener stuff when I have more of a demand for heat than usual. If I burn green wood in the shoulder months my fire will go out due to the longer idle times.
Agreed. If I burn green or low coaling wood like boxelder it has a hard time holding coals compared to dry elm.
18
Heatmor / Re: 409 SS vs. Mild Steel
« on: December 14, 2014, 07:11:05 PM »
9 years on my Heatmor 200. No problems.
Fairly efficient. Works the best with 24" large split pieces or up to 10" dry (<25%) rounds and if overloaded or wet wood seems to waste a lot of heat up the stack.
I had to replace the fan at 6 years. I also added insulation on the doors and top.
Fairly efficient. Works the best with 24" large split pieces or up to 10" dry (<25%) rounds and if overloaded or wet wood seems to waste a lot of heat up the stack.
I had to replace the fan at 6 years. I also added insulation on the doors and top.
19
Plumbing / Re: DHW Question
« on: December 09, 2014, 11:21:35 AM »
I have a bypass on mine. I switch it in summer. After not installing bypasses the first time, I have put them in as I modify the system. That way if it leaks or needs to be de-scaled, I can continue to use hot water with the lp tank.
20
Fire Wood / Re: kiln drying
« on: December 05, 2014, 11:22:29 AM »
There is a big wood seller that has a storage unit kind of kiln at his "u-pick up' location. I saw them loading steel pallet bins and a chimney exhausting at one end. I haven't seen up close how it works or what he is heating with, but it looks like he is selling a lot of wood. He was out last year and didn't get many new logs until mid summer, so no time to dry like normal.
21
Heatsource1 / Re: replacing the door hoses
« on: November 28, 2014, 06:09:58 AM »
Good advice. The cheap ones won't last as long. If you want the the best there is also the blue silicone hoses (found on big trucks these days)
22
Heatmor / Re: Fire keeps going out
« on: November 26, 2014, 01:21:25 PM »Heatmor works like this, if there is no call for heat fan is off, when you open the outer most door (not the firebox door) a switch turns the fan on, I believe this is to give some oxygen to the firebox to make flashback minimal. Then you turn a normal looking light switch off which turns the light on and fan off.Do the newer ones actually turn the fan on when the door is open? Mine has a mechanical flapper only.
kso: I am new to OWB's and the heatmor as I have been burning mine for only a month and half now. I wasn't too impressed with mine in the warmer months...40-59 degree weather. I never did mess with the differential, wish I would have. Fire went out one time for me and I think it was from a low demand for heat on a warm day and burning round birch thats a bit punky, but the main issue I had was the fan flapper would either stick open a bit or closed from creosote building up on it.
I'm guessing you don't have enough load on the boiler but its possible maybe a fan flapper stuck closed and couldn't fan the flame. I think your 400 has two fans, one in the back and one in the front. Might be a good idea to take both out and see if sticking closed was a problem.
I've also noticed that the water temp on the gauge on the front of boiler will read 10 degrees plus or minus a couple colder than what the aquastat is set at. So if aquastat set at 180, which is all the higher my heatmor goes to the gauge will be 170ish when the fan shuts off.
To the original poster: does the light come on when you flip the switch? If not it sounds as if it is being left off and when flipping the switch on then it may be working correctly. Or there is a wiring problem.
23
Heatmor / Re: Fire keeps going out
« on: November 11, 2014, 06:47:08 AM »
Some good advice already given.
I burn better wood during warm weather as it will hold coals better. I burn mostly elm or cherry in warmer low heat loads, boxelder, pine, elm mix when the temp is in the 20's and whatever when it is real cold depending on how often I want to load. I burn light woods when I am home during the day, oak on real cold nights or when I am away for a long day. You will find your own formula.
Dealers will tell you the Heatmor will burn green wood and it will, but you will go through more and if there is low load the fire will go out.
Smaller split, 25% =/- moisture, good coaling wood and it should stay lit once a coal bed is established. Yesterday I ran out and had only a few embers left. I raked the few coals to the front loaded a layer of 6" splits, and 10" split and rounds on top and it restarted in 10 minutes.
It will get better once you get used to it.
I burn better wood during warm weather as it will hold coals better. I burn mostly elm or cherry in warmer low heat loads, boxelder, pine, elm mix when the temp is in the 20's and whatever when it is real cold depending on how often I want to load. I burn light woods when I am home during the day, oak on real cold nights or when I am away for a long day. You will find your own formula.
Dealers will tell you the Heatmor will burn green wood and it will, but you will go through more and if there is low load the fire will go out.
Smaller split, 25% =/- moisture, good coaling wood and it should stay lit once a coal bed is established. Yesterday I ran out and had only a few embers left. I raked the few coals to the front loaded a layer of 6" splits, and 10" split and rounds on top and it restarted in 10 minutes.
It will get better once you get used to it.
24
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: burning bulk paper
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:13:08 AM »
I have tried burning paper and cardboard. It smokes, makes marginal heat and the ash residue needs to be raked a lot to completely break down. Barely worth it for me. I just put it in the recycling bin. If I have too much I may burn some cardboard occasionally.
25
Fire Wood / Re: leaning tree
« on: October 30, 2014, 02:16:20 PM »
The OP has a 10" tree. Small notch and back cut. Plunge cutting is for bigger trees.
26
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Closed cell foam in a can?
« on: October 22, 2014, 06:25:39 AM »
I have used the foam in a can. It works good. Doesn't go very far and big gaps can be hard to seal completely, but will do what you want to.
I would NOT use silicone caulk. It is not designed to seal more than 1/2" and will just make a mess for you if you are sealing huge gaps.
I have the 4" insulated PVC with 1" pipes inside. It is not the recommended way now, but works quite well for me. I left both sides open. I figure the one in the basement (lower) would let me know if water was getting in. I don't remember what I have at the furnace, but I probably have some sort of draft stop there.
I would NOT use silicone caulk. It is not designed to seal more than 1/2" and will just make a mess for you if you are sealing huge gaps.
I have the 4" insulated PVC with 1" pipes inside. It is not the recommended way now, but works quite well for me. I left both sides open. I figure the one in the basement (lower) would let me know if water was getting in. I don't remember what I have at the furnace, but I probably have some sort of draft stop there.
27
Fire Wood / Re: Firewood prices
« on: October 22, 2014, 06:16:50 AM »
Prices here are $350-$400 cord for delivered seasoned oak, but I don't think there is any dry oak to be bought. I sold a buddy a cord last year at $150.00. He told me last week that he thinks he ripped me off. I guess it looks that way, although he did pick it up and prices were $150-200 delivered last year, so I am ok with that.
28
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Owners who used fluid film inside their firebox
« on: October 17, 2014, 06:17:54 AM »
That fluid film looks like good stuff. I have never heard of it.
I use LPS-3 rust inhibitor on mine. http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612 One can lasts 2 years. Spray mainly on the ash pan and blower door hinges that will rust. Lighter fog on the inside of the boiler where there is stainless steel. Furnace is the same in fall as I left it in the spring. I am happy with the results and it is a lot easier than bottling and spraying oil.
I use LPS-3 rust inhibitor on mine. http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612 One can lasts 2 years. Spray mainly on the ash pan and blower door hinges that will rust. Lighter fog on the inside of the boiler where there is stainless steel. Furnace is the same in fall as I left it in the spring. I am happy with the results and it is a lot easier than bottling and spraying oil.
29
Fire Wood / Re: What would you do?
« on: October 16, 2014, 12:13:22 PM »
I have an unlimited supply of good hardwood, but I still burn boxelder because I am cutting them down anyway.
30
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Can't Keep Fire Burning??
« on: October 14, 2014, 06:38:42 AM »
I light mine once in October and almost never have to relight. Once you get used to how they operate it should be easy.
Dry wood is important especially while forming the coal bed. I try to burn well seasoned dry wood. Some of my rounds are large and probably have 25-30% moisture and I split a lot of it (large splits 1-2 years to dry) to get it to dry to 20% moisture. I get better burns, less smoke and more heat from it.
It sounds funny, but I burn mostly elm or good coaling woods in the shoulder season to keep coals; I mix in some box elder or pine on the colder fall days. If I burn straight box elder or pine I need to load more full to keep the coals going which seems to waste more up the stack. I burn the light woods that don't coal either the warmer winter days or very cold days that I am home to feed regularly. Nothing like a subzero weekend to burn box elder all day and oak at night.
The only reason I burn box elder is I always have so much when clearing field tree lines every year and I hate to waste it all. I don't go out of my way for it. It is marginal wood in the outdoor furnace, but I usually burn 2 cords of it a year.
With some experience one figures out when to load the hardwood for long burns, junk wood for short burns or hardwood to keep the coals going.
Dry wood is important especially while forming the coal bed. I try to burn well seasoned dry wood. Some of my rounds are large and probably have 25-30% moisture and I split a lot of it (large splits 1-2 years to dry) to get it to dry to 20% moisture. I get better burns, less smoke and more heat from it.
It sounds funny, but I burn mostly elm or good coaling woods in the shoulder season to keep coals; I mix in some box elder or pine on the colder fall days. If I burn straight box elder or pine I need to load more full to keep the coals going which seems to waste more up the stack. I burn the light woods that don't coal either the warmer winter days or very cold days that I am home to feed regularly. Nothing like a subzero weekend to burn box elder all day and oak at night.
The only reason I burn box elder is I always have so much when clearing field tree lines every year and I hate to waste it all. I don't go out of my way for it. It is marginal wood in the outdoor furnace, but I usually burn 2 cords of it a year.
With some experience one figures out when to load the hardwood for long burns, junk wood for short burns or hardwood to keep the coals going.