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 1 
 on: Today at 11:35:24 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by E Yoder
I've burned 10 summers with no heat dump with no overheating issues that I can remember. Various models. Running either 170 (conventional) or 175-180 (gasser) on the high end. But they've gotta shut down tight.
I like playing with a fire anyway, but now with 4 children it's definitely worth burning year round. But not everyone is in my situation. We roll through hot water, a flat plate is a wonderful thing.

 2 
 on: Today at 07:32:48 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by wreckit87
All depends on pump size and delta T when talking temp. Depending on HX size and piping layout, DHW call may be a huge load. Condensation doesn't start occurring until ~132 degree return temps, so if there is good mixing in the stove and a proper piping system, you should be able to run down to 165 with a 10 degree diff or 160 with a 5 degree diff- possibly even lower if creosote doesn't become a problem. Even in the -40F dead of winter I still run a 165 supply with 10 degree diff, and a full load of heating and DHW hangs about a 17 degree delta T. Personally I don't understand the idea of burning year round and needing to have a heat dump when the wear and tear on my shoes walking to the stove twice a day costs more than heating DHW with LP, but that's just me and my small DHW load. Last time I filled my 500 gallon LP tank was in April 2015 and it's down to about 15% right now- a 3 person household has cost me ~$10/mo to heat water as well as the house during shoulder seasons, I can't afford to light a fire for that

 3 
 on: June 19, 2018, 06:43:02 PM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by RSI
170 or a little lower should be fine. If it starts building up more creosote than usual then I would go back up it temp.

 4 
 on: June 19, 2018, 03:10:02 PM 
Started by d5knapp - Last post by d5knapp
I bought the MP 7300 last Friday. Got the conditioner and a section of pipe, and delivery.  Did a little negotiating and got what I thought was a good deal.

NICE!

 5 
 on: June 19, 2018, 02:07:45 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by shepherd boy
 Mild steel unit may need to run hotter than 170 to keep condensation out. RSI should be familiar with this.

 6 
 on: June 18, 2018, 08:12:04 PM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by E Yoder
I wouldn't run over 170 in the summer. Especially with a tall stack.

 7 
 on: June 18, 2018, 05:14:34 PM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by greasemonkoid
That's a good idea ^.  Yes there is a circulator pump running constantly. I also dropped the Ranco T-stat down a hair to 182. It overshoots by 3 degrees, but I've also got the fans that turn on at 185 and that pulls it back down a degree, then it slowly cools off and is stable.

A couple of spare squirrel cage combustion fans came in last week, it looks as if there could be a bit of leakage in the sheet metal housing also. I'll get up there and smoke it later this week and see what happens, in fact, right now the datalogger would probably reveal some good info. I'll post that up after a 24 hour log.

 8 
 on: June 18, 2018, 09:16:25 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by E Yoder
Another method I've used is to shut the draft off right in the middle of a real hard burn. Then wait a minute or two for the firebox to pack full of smoke all the way down into the ash pan, then cap the chimney with a board and turn the draft back on, it'll puff smoke out of any crack even in the ash pan.

 9 
 on: June 18, 2018, 07:26:06 AM 
Started by d5knapp - Last post by Rockarosa
I bought the MP 7300 last Friday. Got the conditioner and a section of pipe, and delivery.  Did a little negotiating and got what I thought was a good deal.

 10 
 on: June 18, 2018, 07:06:31 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by mlappin
Soon as it shuts off, a swisher sweet or something smokey makes a great way to check for air leaks. Just move it around the door, ash pan, shaker grate handle etc and look for it to suck the smoke in.

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