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 on: Today at 04:13:25 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by shepherd boy
  Maybe I misunderstand, but I thought he was saying; The water at the heatex is 178 with the aquastat saying 180 and the aquastat still says 180 after the airhandler runs awhile but the supply temp of the water drops. But I just reread it and maybe I'm wrong. A little confusing.

 on: Today at 03:17:56 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by wreckit87
Where are you getting these numbers exactly? I've read the original post 20 times now and can't make heads or tails of what you're trying to say. Your aquastat cuts out at 180 I think, right? So boiler temp is theoretically 180. Inlet to the exchangers is 178 at this point and pulls down to 152 when the air handler starts and stays there indefinitely until the boiler cycle begins again, at which point it starts warming up the temps at the exchanger supply to 175ish again? I'm ever so confused. If your supply temp at the boiler is 180 and your supply water at the exchanger is only 152, your underground is not carrying any heat. What is the return temp at the boiler, with both exchangers in the house calling? As long as that temp stays above 140 degrees, there is nothing to worry about

 on: Today at 02:07:12 PM 
Started by TheSnowDO - Last post by coolidge
I used to split all my wood to 3-4" splits so I could pack them in there good.

 on: Today at 01:25:25 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by Bluegrass Wood Burner
Would it be wise to up the hi temp to 190 and low at 175 or so?

 on: Today at 01:23:41 PM 
Started by MD20/20 - Last post by RSI
What you do with is can make a difference. I would go with cat5e.

 on: Today at 12:24:39 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by shepherd boy
I think they used the same design as a Taylor, which was the first furnace I owned. If you notice where the outlet for the pump is, about a third of the way down from the top, and the return about a third of the way up from the bottom and has a internal pipe to the front of the furnace.The natural line of flow will be from the bottom front to the supply port. Your aquastat is on the upper front  which is a dead spot in the water circulation rout as well as the fact that most of the heat is generated in the top of the furnace. You can put a shunt pump on but I doubt it will have a dramatic effect. This is just the way these these stoves have always done. If it heats your house I wouldn't worry.

 on: Today at 12:14:31 PM 
Started by Jon_E - Last post by wreckit87
Mine is the "old" stuff that is in a black corrugated outer shell - not the current stuff that is solid urethane foam and a hard rubberish smooth shell.  I doubt I can get that stuff to seal with any kind of boot or wrap.

I wonder.... They have couplings for corrugated drain tile, but they're not watertight, which is going to render your whole lineset garbage if it gets wet inside. We did a 200 yard run of 10" direct bury chilled water pipe a few years back at a prison. It was all preinsulated so we had to keep water out for the same reason. A guy came out, a rep from Covalence I believe, and gave us these "heat shrink" type sleeves like you'd use on wiring splices. Slid it over the pipe, made the connection, reinsulated, then slid the sleeve over the joint and heated it up with a weedburner to shrink it on to the pipe. That was smooth-ish wall, so not the same as you have but I wonder if you found like a 4 foot chunk of the heat shrink sleeve and made the coupling with a regular old drain tile coupling, then shrunk a couple feet on each side using each rib as an additional barrier.... Maybe? Or even just a regular old Fernco rubber coupling with the hose clamps and a whole lot of silicone. Dangerous either way I guess

 on: Today at 11:05:40 AM 
Started by MD20/20 - Last post by MD20/20
I'm interested in burying some type of cable for monitoring purposes. Haven't decided what I'll use to monitor, but OWB is about 250ft from house. CAT 5 or 6? thanks.

 on: Today at 11:01:17 AM 
Started by Jon_E - Last post by juddspaintballs
Look in the commercial cable splicing world.  I'm sure there's a heat shrink style tape, mastic, or tube available in a size that would work and it might even include a goop that seals the splice forever.  Barring that, I'd clean the underground part as best as possible, slide a piece of PVC or so over the splice and fill the void with a LOT of 2 part epoxy of some kind.  The goal is a water tight seal whereas the insulation for the foot or so of splicing doesn't really matter a whole lot as long as water doesn't get in.

 on: Today at 10:46:13 AM 
Started by mlappin - Last post by mlappin
Any/all of those sensors have a motion setting?

I know the tags do, not sure about the outdoor models.

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