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Author Topic: Wood Eze Firewood Processor  (Read 12078 times)

mlappin

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Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« on: January 12, 2017, 09:59:23 PM »

Had the processor in the shop for a few days, mounted the PTO pump solid and used a short Cat 5 shaft to drive it as it won’t fit on some of the smaller tractors as the PTO clutch housings are in the way.

Picked up an old New Idea ear corn elevator as the old one was so shot the flat links would open up by just looking at it. Paid about half as much for the New Idea as new conveyor chain would have cost for the old. Had about another $400 in new drive sprockets for the top, new bearings, pipe and hydraulic hose, everything else was salvaged from either the scrap barrels or obsolete spare parts in one of the barns.

Now for the odd part, the PTO pump works just fine when the processor is level like the beginning of the video, tilt the machine to match the log angle and with enough tilt, the rear seal on the pump will leak enough for it to sling oil and the saw rpm’s drop just enough to hear the difference in pitch, I’ve let it run while tilted for several minutes then pulled the vent on the reservoir and the oil wasn’t foamed at all. So why a minuscule leak thats not sucking air would cause a drop in rpm’s is beyond me, raise the processor back to level and the leak stops.
 
Just doesn’t make a lot of sense, I’m going to reseal it again and see what happens.



« Last Edit: February 05, 2017, 10:11:47 PM by mlappin »
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Roger2561

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2017, 03:53:33 AM »

That's a cool looking processor.  What kind of power plant does it take to operate something like that?  Roger 
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mlappin

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2017, 07:00:04 AM »

It will kill a Ford 8N, makes a Super 88 diesel blow black smoke once in awhile, they don’t give PTO horsepower on the Super 88 but it did have 42 belt hp. I have a 540 stub installed in the White but have modified the lockout in the PTO speed selector so I can select 1000 RPM with a 540 stub installed, that White put out a little over 120hp on the dyno, given that its running in 1000rpm I had the engine running at 1200 rpm to end up with a PTO speed of 540.
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Bondo

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2017, 03:11:29 PM »

That's a pretty darn Cool machine,......     Love it,....

Wouldn't work with the residential junk trees I get though,.....
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mlappin

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2017, 05:13:28 PM »

That's a pretty darn Cool machine,......     Love it,....

Wouldn't work with the residential junk trees I get though,.....

Yah, yard trees and fencerow trees aren’t near as fun as woods trees. I like topping woods trees better than fencerow trees, isn’t near as arduous with woods trees.
The first part of the video was originally over six minutes long before I sped up the middle, so when cutting to the max length of 21-22” it zips right thru a pretty long log, a little slower when they are shorter pieces as more cuts are required.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2017, 05:18:27 PM by mlappin »
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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2017, 08:08:05 PM »

Had a member contact me that has the same processor, wanted to know about my mods.

I’m going to post it here so if any other Wood Eze owners around it will be available to them as well.


I’ll start posting pictures as I have them. For now I’ll do a brief description and post links to the parts I used.



« Last Edit: February 05, 2017, 10:03:57 PM by mlappin »
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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2017, 08:08:26 PM »

Reserved for length of cut Mod.

Parts list, parts listed are for example only, may be able to source cheaper:

DPDT ON/ON toggle switch for Auto/Manual length: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/DPDT-TOGGLE-SWITCH-16-AMP-11-3417.axd

NO/NC Limit Switch with roller arm : http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Limit-Switches/RCL-300-LIMIT-SWITCH-STANDARD-ROLLER-LEVER-43-DEGREE-MOVEMENT-11-3509-A.axd

14/4 or 12/4 SO Cord: http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-4-SOOW-SO-Cord-Per-Foot-USA-Portable-Outdoor-Indoor-600-V-Flexible-Wire-cabl-/371754338018?hash=item568e4906e2:g:5P0AAOSwDlBTwFhN

Pictures and schematic will follow as time allows.

Basically this one is relatively easy compared to the pump or chip conveyor mod. Since I’m sure my wiring block won’t match other machines I’ll not bother with a schematic.

As seen in the picture, a piece of 1/2 rod is bent into a loop, the top of it is welded onto the under side of the log jaw assembly. A 5/8” nut is used, then a hole is drilled thru the side and tapped for a 1/4 bolt or thumbscrew, a small piece of metal is then welded to the nut to activate the lever assembly on the limit switch, this is what’s moved along the rod to vary your length of cut. The length of the loop is determined by what you want your minimum and maximum length, for my G200 I try to cut around 22-23” long, for my show G100 14-15” works well.  When done if the adjustable nut isn’t close enough to the wheel to activate it every time, just weld another small piece of metal on to act as a shim, each end can be angled a little to help the wheel start to roll over it.

The switch is mounted by drilling and tapping holes to accept coarse thread #10 bolts, don’t use too long of bolts or the splitter assembly can bend or shear em off.

The wiring: Start out by finding the wire that is hot when the splitter ram is being extended, using a screw driver find which coil is energized while the splitter ram is moving, trace this wire back to the block. Connect a wire to that terminal and run it to a DPDT ON/ON toggle switch, this switch will select whether auto length is on or off. Connect to either #4 or #6 terminal, from the center terminal #5 run a wire back to the limit switch to a NO contact, from the other NO contact run a wire back to the terminal block. Open the log jaw and find the wire that is energized only when the jaw is being opened, connect the wire from the limit switch to that terminal.

Check your progress, set your trip nut where you want the jaw to open and cycle the processor, upon extending the cylinder when the trip nut moves the arm of the limit switch the jaw should open till the trip nut releases the arm, if it opens too far the strip of metal welded to the nut can be shortened, if it doesn’t open far enough extend the strip of metal on the trip nut. The toggle switch should be set so the circuit is closed, if it doesn’t work flip the switch and try again. Once this is working properly move to the next step.

Find the wire that closes the log jaw on the terminal block, if you have a spare terminal disconnect the wire from the solenoid and connect it to the spare, from that terminal run a wire back to the limit switch and hook it to one of the NC contacts, from the other NC contact run a wire back to where you disconnected the solenoid wire from and connect there. This makes sure while the jaw is opening the jaw can’t accidentally try to be closed at the same time. Now for the last step, on the selector toggle for auto/manual on the other set of terminals hook a wire to the center one which should be #2 and run that to where you disconnected the solenoid wire from, from where the solenoid wire is connected now run a wire back to the toggle, if you used terminal #6 previously then hook this wire to #1, if you used #4 previously then hook to #3. This will allow normal operation of the processor when the switch is set to manual, if not for this step the jaw will have a dead spot where it won’t close when the limit switch is tripped.









« Last Edit: May 08, 2017, 09:14:25 PM by mlappin »
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mlappin

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2017, 08:08:51 PM »

Reserved for chip conveyor mod.

Chip Conveyor parts list.

SPST 12v relay: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/DC-Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/12-VDC-40-AMP-SPST-RELAY-11-3427.axd

12volt 10 amp self resetting circuit breaker: https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Shortstop-Circuit-Automatic-Protective/dp/B01KAF28Q8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486354834&sr=8-2&keywords=12+volt+10amp+circuit+breaker

Momentary On/Off/On DPDT toggle switch for reverse/off/forward of chip conveyor motor: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/DPDT-CO-20-AMP-MOMENTARY-MAINTAINED-TOGGLE-SWITCH-11-3279.axd

!2v 100rpm  intermittant duty gear motor: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/DC-Gearmotors/100-RPM-12-VDC-GEARMOTOR-5-1649.axd

#35 chain:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Roller-Chain-Links/Roller-Chain/35-1-10-10-BOX-OF-35-ROLLER-CHAIN-1-1163-35.axd

10T #35 3/8” bore sprocket: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Sprockets/Finished-Bore-Sprockets/10T-3-8-BORE-35P-SPROCKET-1-2413-10-AA-S.axd

Mount the 12 volt relay in a convenient spot, connect spade #85 directly to a ground, connect spade #30 to the load terminal of the breaker, the supply terminal of the breaker gets connected directly to the 12 volt power supply at the terminal block. Terminal #86 of relay gets connected to the lug on the terminal strip that is energized only when the saw is in the cut position. Spade #87 on the relay goes to terminal #4 of the on/off/on toggle switch. Go ahead and connect terminal #2 on the toggle to one lead of the gear motor and terminal #5 to the other terminal of the gear motor.

When making the connection on the toggle I prefer eyes instead of slip on terminals, with eyes if a screw comes loose the eye can’t fall off and short against something else. When making the connection to #4 another short piece of wire should be crimped in along with the wire from the relay, that short piece then should get an eye crimped on and connected to terminal #3 on the toggle. A ground wire then should be attached to terminals #1 and 6#. With the tractor engine off and power supply hooked up with the saw in the cut position the motor should run forwards with the toggle in the On position, off when the toggle is in the Off position and backwards when the toggle is held in the momentary on position. If the motor runs backwards to the directions then reverse terminals #2 and #5.

The motor I listed comes with a 7/16” shaft, the sprocket is 3/8” bore, I chucked mine in the lathe and bored it to 7/16” after I removed the set screws. The flat in the shaft isn’t required and most likely will be cut off anyways. When your sure of the final position of the sprocket take a small drill bit and dimple the motor shaft thru each setscrew hole in the sprocket hub, this is more than adequate to drive it, no key way or flat spot required. On the sprocket take an angle grinder and cut a small notch between each of the teeth, this helps to keep chips from building up on the ID, kinda like how some dirt bike sprockets are cut.

I used 3/16” key stock and welded a 2” piece to each link however far apart you desire your paddles, 2-3” seems to work fine, its easiest if you take a piece of flat stock the same height as the roller chain laying on its side, lay each piece of key stock on the flat plate of a link and weld it to the pins of the roller chain, I tried welding directly to the flat plate and ruined the first link I tried. After you determine the length you need and all the key stock is welded on then paddles can be welded to the key stock. I used 14 gauge black metal, an 1” or 1 1/2” tall is plenty, length of the paddle will be determined by your tightest spot along the “chute”. I also used key stock as a wear guide when it goes around the corner, grind one end at a 45 and use that like a scraper against the rollers on the chain so chips can’t build up behind it. I drilled a hole thru the sheetmetal at the leading edge of that piece of keystock and chips do come thru it, so the scraper part of it is essential.

The end opposite of the motor is simply a cutout from a 1 1/2” hole saw, I believe either was 1/8” or 3/16” inch thick, I place a washer or two under it for a spacer then simply cut the head off a 1/4” bolt and welded that directly to the processor frame as a mounting stud for the “idler”.

The spring loaded tensioner for the chain is two pieces of 1/4” pipe reamed out with a drill bit, then two piece of quarter inch rod welded to a piece of 3/16” keystock acts as both a tensioner and a guide, grind a slight taper on each end to help keep the chain from walking off. Tension is supplied by a spring on each rod, tension can be adjusted by simply adding or subtracting 1/4” flat washers from under the springs. Care must be taken to insure the rods and pipes are parallel on all planes or it won’t work freely. I pull the hose off the bar once in awhile and oil the chain and tensioner with a little bar oil to keep everything free, I run the Stihl Blue winter oil in it year round as most of the time we don’t use it much in the summer.


Closeup of paddle:





Closeup of chain tensioner:





Closeup of “idler” assembly, the cutout is tightened down on the stud and doesn’t need to rotate:





Closeup of chute, a piece of plexiglass is cut to fit around the bar to keep the chips in the chute. The heads of #10 bolts are cut off and tacked to the top of the chute along the sides and holes drilled in the plexiglass to fit over the studs, wing nuts then are used to hold the plexiglass down.





Closeup of motor assembly and guard:


« Last Edit: May 08, 2017, 10:23:16 PM by mlappin »
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mlappin

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Re: Firewood Processor
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2017, 08:09:35 PM »

Reserved for bar oil warmer mod.

The bar oil warmer is simply  a piece of 1 1/2” black pipe roughly 14” long, a 1/2” pipe nipple is cut in half, a large enough hole is bored in the side of each end of the pipe to just fit the pipe nipple in, nipples are welded on, then a cap is welded to one end with a hole drilled and tapped for 1/4” pipe thread. A brass NPT to 1/4” tube ferule fitting is screwed into the end, then a drill bit is ran thru it so a piece of 1/4” brake line slides thru it.

A long piece of 1/4” brake line is then bend in a 180, then another 180 and another so you get several passes inside the black pipe. Slide one end of thru the existing brass fitting, then slide the other end cap and brass fitting over the other end. Tack the cap in place then unscrew the brass and finish welding the end cap on. Anti splitter or something should be applied to the brake line to prevent any splatter from sticking to it. Screw the brass fitting back in and tighten both nuts down. Place a plug in one 1/2” pipe nipple and pressure test, 20 lbs is plenty. A few mounting tabs is then welded on. I mounted mine under the flow divider valve and plumbed a return hose to the oil cooler into one end then the other goes to the oil cooler. Makes pumps last much longer if its used a lot in below freezing temps.

I also made an auto/manual mode for the bar oil pump. I used to have to disengage the PTO, then hold the button down for what seemed like for ever sometimes to finally get bar oil up to the bar. With the selector toggle the pump can be ran on manual until oil reaches the bar. Simply a SPDT On/On switch is needed. Cut the hot wire going to the pump, connect the wire coming from the terminal block to either side of the toggle, connect the oil pump to the center terminal, connect a always on 12volt positive to the remaining terminal and done.

SPDT On/On toggle: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Toggle-switch-Position-waterproof/dp/B01J31PRBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486361606&sr=8-1&keywords=on%2Fon+two+position+toggle

I also use these rubber boots on all the toggles to get a little more life out of em, just get a bag of ten or twenty and be done with it as they don’t last for much more than a year: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/RUBBER-COVER-FOR-TOGGLE-SWITCH-11-3250.axd
« Last Edit: February 05, 2017, 11:16:14 PM by mlappin »
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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2017, 06:08:29 AM »

Thanks Marty. I'm looking forward to some photos to go along with your descriptions. I picked one of these up and just got it running. I'm interested in how you made some of the functions semi-automated. I have the (original?) control box mounted to a (broken/floppy?) valve lever to operate the saw bar. I have to hold a button on the box to start the saw while rotating the lever to move the bar up and down. Then there are two other buttons on the box; one opens the jaw to release the log and the other button closes the jaw. On the end of the box there's a toggle switch that operates the splitter back and forth.

In your video I see that you can remove your hands from the controls while it operates; I have to be hands on at all times to make mine work. I'm sure some people will say it's safer, but your way is more efficient. And mounting the PTO pump...what a great idea! That pump is such a PITA to wrestle around with all the time. I'm definitely interested in seeing how you did this.

There's not many of us WoodEze owners around; I know one other guy besides you. We need to stick together!

To answer Roger2561: I have the original manual for mine and it claims to require a minimum of 25 HP. I have a friend who runs his on a slightly smaller tractor than that! I'm using a 52HP Massey Ferguson for mine.
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mlappin

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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2017, 07:01:01 AM »

Kind of amazing you have a friend with one considering I’ve only ever seen two for sale and mine is the only one I’ve seen in person.

One was in the Carolina’s and “needs work” for $4000 the other was in California, was recently painted, rewired and had all new hoses for $9000. Even at 9K it’s a steal compared to what new processors sell for. I still prefer the WoodEze compared to those you have to set a table up then load the logs onto.
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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2017, 11:14:39 AM »

My friend who has one is out of Kentucky. He's the guy that originally asked you for info on your chip conveyor after seeing the video on YouTube. I pointed him to this forum and thread to keep informed on your updates. I found your video through your post on FB on the firewood group page I think. My processor came from a guy in VT.

Does your model have an oil cooler built in? Mine does but his does not. Because of the cooler, mine has the filter at the suction end vs. the return like his. I wouldn't have room for the filter at the return port.

What did you fabricate for a mount for your pump? My pump only has two 3/8" threaded holes and they are both on one side of the pump. I like the idea of mounting the pump to the processor itself, that thing is a pain to put on and take off.

I'll try to get some photos this weekend if it doesn't pour out and we can compare some of the similarities and differences. I noticed on your other thread here http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=7407.0 that all your controls are on top of the plate they are mounted to. Mine are all suspended below...?

Did you or your uncle fabricate the outfeed chute? Mine does not have that feature but I'd like to make something. I have a conveyor I want to utilize but even with the right wheel lowered on the processor the splits coming out of it are kind of low to the ground to get it to drop into a conveyor.
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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2017, 11:45:56 AM »

I fabricated the chute out of what ever scrap I had lying around, I think most of the pipes were part of a spike tooth drag until I unbolted all the spikes.
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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2017, 12:18:28 PM »

Pump mod, everything I used I had laying around already far as the tubing, I ordered the bearings and shaft from Burdens Surplus Center, the PTO shaft came from Northern Tool, TSC might also have one that will work. I chucked the shaft and used a round nose piece of carbide tooling I ground to cut the groove for the PTO shaft lock pin.

I also replaced my oil cooler and moved it when mounting the pump, the old one has been repaired beyond count and was leaking again. I also replumbed it so ALL the flow returned thru the cooler then the filter to the reservoir, originally only part of the flow was cooled.

Bearings, I simply got longer setscrews then ran em right down to the shaft between the splines:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/A-L-Bearings-and-Components/1-3-8-PILLOW-BLOCK-BEARING-1-207-22-P.axd

The shaft to run thru the pump:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shafting/Splined-Shafting/1-3-8-6T-FULLY-SPLINED-SHAFTING-1-2938-6.axd


Rear bearing mount, the strainer seen in the picture came off another piece of equipment, has both a screen in it and is magnetic.




The PTO guard is a piece of 8” galvanized auger tube. Remove the PTO shaft and use a long funnel to fill the bar oil reservoir.




View of part of the oil cooler, snap disc to control fan and filter, snap disc just came from WW Grainger, on at 140 off at 130.




Right side of pump and another view of the strainer. There is another pillow block at the front of the pump just like the rear. The torque arm is a piece of 2” channel iron that runs against a 1/2x2x2 chuck of steel, another little tab is welded in place to keep the pump from ever trying to rotate away from the stop.

« Last Edit: May 08, 2017, 10:27:40 PM by mlappin »
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Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

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Re: Wood Eze Firewood Processor
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2017, 08:21:46 AM »

Thanks for the info on the pump mounting Marty. I have a couple of questions:
1. Was your filter always on the return side or was it originally on the suction side?
2. I looked up the parts you listed. The splined shaft is 12" long. The pillow blocks are 1.7 wide each and the pump is 6.35 wide for a total of 9.8 of the shaft to go through both blocks and the pump. That leaves only 2.2 inches to connect to the PTO shaft. That seems way too little no?

Thanks!
Rich
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