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[mtoll]

EE Farm Boy  Nice Job

[Sloppy_Snood]

Great Job EEFarmBoy. 

I should have replied to your earlier post but the "best" way I found to bend the Logstor was....

DIG DEEP for the 90° turn coming up to your pad.

While it admittedly "cost me" more than 3-4 feet of Logstor piping, I was able to complete the turn and "pop up" right where I wanted with little to no problem because I dug down to 5 feet of depth the last 10-15 feet of the trench to the concrete pad location.

Install Note:  I literally walked on the Logstor into the hole.  The "back" of the hole was curve shaped through the dirt/clay in a semi-circular swing with the backhoe.  The Logstor was allowed to "push" against the existing, undisturbed dirt as it bent up to vertical.  Plenty of flume sand was utilized to hold the Logstor in the bottom and along the contour of the ditch.  I hand tamped the flume sand every 6-8 inches and stopped about a foot shy of the finish grade.  Last 1 foot was backfilled with heavy clay.

As far as your plumbing layouts, I am hoping slimjim, Scott and others will chime in. My Portage and Main dealer pretty told me the first item to plumb to was the water heater (sidearm or plate exchanger; doesn't matter) then the HX in the plenum of the forced air system but your design does not do this. 

I do not know if this is correct for every system but that is what I was told. 

Can dealers and system designers chime in here? 

[sceptre74]

The layout for my install that slimjim designed for me has the domestic first on the loop.

[EE Farm Boy]

Thanks for the feedback.  I tried digging as deep as I could but unfortunately around here once you get to 3 ft its nothing but shell rock and you have to beat and bang to get the other foot to break loose.  It took a loader and a big track hoe to dig by basement, and 5 solid days of digging.  Most basements can be dug in 8 hours with a loader but not on this rock infested land. 

I will post a new layout when things get to a stopping point after this first phase as I have a made a few changes based on people's feedback.  Since the manifold and loops are in parallel, does it matter if the DHW is the first on the manifold as water will only flow through the loops if the zone valve opens when a loop calls for heat?  The very first heat exchanger is liquid to liquid to convert the open system of the boiler to a closed system in the house.  This way I can push the water up 30 feet to the attic with no issues with low boiling temps due to atmospheric pressure changes since it will so much higher than the boiler. 

Thanks,

[Crow]

 EE, If I am understanding your question correctly your pipes didn't come out even with each other and putting them in as is may cause your boiler to be not square to the pad? I measured mine and the back cover of the boiler where the pipe enters is 8" deep and at the lowest point from corner to corner where the knock outs are is 16" across. Hope this answers your question.

[EE Farm Boy]

yes, thanks Crow, that is what I was looking for.  I think I can make it work, once I peel back the outer casing I will have room to play with. 

Thanks,

[Sprinter]

I wouldn't be afraid to strip it down to an inch or two of the Crete, you can always sleeve and spray foam it after all is connected. It's the good pex so a heat gun under 325 degrees and you can make it do some tricks that you can't do with the cheap pex.
I normally sleeve it where it comes thru the pad to have some flex, and use 2x4 or steel pipe to anchor the lines to. Unistrut is your friend for a real nice job.

[slimjim]

Good solution sprinter

[Sloppy_Snood]

Unistrut is your friend for a real nice job.

As SlimmyJimmy said, great suggestions Sprinter.  I would like to investigate the UniStrut idea for my piping and the pad area.

Did you have a particular setup or arrangement or "model name" of the particular UniStrut product(s) that you would suggest using for such an arrangement?    Curious. 

[Jwood]

Home Depot sells it 10' lengths I would get the galvanized not the green coated.

[Sloppy_Snood]

Thank you JWood.  I'll check Home Depot out then. 

[EE Farm Boy]

Well, getting ready for the next phase of the project.  Newly sewn grass is coming up, yard back to normal, and I pulled the trigger and ordered my BL 2840 today.... one step at a time...

[slimjim]

Thank you EEFarm boy, Please keep in touch!

[Jwood]

That's awesome Farmboy congratulations

[EE Farm Boy]

Well, its been a while since I posted so thought I would give an update.  Nothing new to report on the boiler.  Had to take a break, its Hay season.  Once the hay is in the barn and the fields planted I can get back to ordering all of the components and get to work on the inside portion of project.   Should be able to start back up posting  in 2 or 3 weeks.  I will have a few weeks to work on this between cuttings.  Between work and the farm, not much time right now.