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1
Equipment / Re: Suggestions for new chainsaw
« on: May 03, 2018, 09:01:53 PM »
The Echo Timberwolf is a 59cc. mid sized saw and can be had for less than $400 shipped to your door.
I don't personally have one but know a few people that do and they are happy with them.
In my arsenal I do have an Echo 355t, two Echo Power Pruners, Echo hedge trimmers, and an Echo blower. All run great and dependable. Plus 5 year warranty.
Happy cutting
I don't personally have one but know a few people that do and they are happy with them.
In my arsenal I do have an Echo 355t, two Echo Power Pruners, Echo hedge trimmers, and an Echo blower. All run great and dependable. Plus 5 year warranty.
Happy cutting
2
HeatMaster / Re: Whats the Difference?
« on: April 19, 2018, 07:58:06 AM »
got it, thanks. is pricing the same then ?
3
HeatMaster / Re: i know ya had a dealer reps meeting....SO WHATS THE LATEST??? :)
« on: April 19, 2018, 07:57:07 AM »
both of my gassers were years ago too. I haven't seen a newer one. I'm sure they are getting better though.
4
HeatMaster / Re: i know ya had a dealer reps meeting....SO WHATS THE LATEST??? :)
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:42:02 PM »
Fireboss,
I switched from a gasser to a conventional stove as soon as I moved to the country. A gasser was great in town because it was only option. Now with no one to bother with smoke, my conventional stove is so much nicer. Just put in wood, any species any size, dry if you have it, wet if you don't.
Wood savings, maybe. But no maintenance to speak of and not picky. If I burn any more wood than I did with a gasser, its more than made up for by the less time I spend messing with stove and splitting/curing/covering perfect wood for the gasser.
I switched from a gasser to a conventional stove as soon as I moved to the country. A gasser was great in town because it was only option. Now with no one to bother with smoke, my conventional stove is so much nicer. Just put in wood, any species any size, dry if you have it, wet if you don't.
Wood savings, maybe. But no maintenance to speak of and not picky. If I burn any more wood than I did with a gasser, its more than made up for by the less time I spend messing with stove and splitting/curing/covering perfect wood for the gasser.
5
HeatMaster / Whats the Difference?
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:32:58 PM »
What's the difference between a C500 and MF10000E?
I've scoured the website and all specs look identical.
Thanks in advance. Russ
I've scoured the website and all specs look identical.
Thanks in advance. Russ
6
Equipment / Re: Skidsteer log splitters
« on: April 08, 2018, 08:33:18 PM »
We have a TM splitter for the big skid steer. We bought the big one they make. It's completely overkill for what we are doing but we'll never break it. Could have went with a smaller cylinder and had faster cycle time.
The splitter that does 80% of the work now is the sideways mounted one on the SK350 Ditch Witch mini skid steer that you stand on the back of. IT is mounted sideways instead of straight out unlike the TM on the big skid. Therefore you can articulate it throughout the hydraulic range just like a bucket. And you have great visibility of wedge. Plus, you can just step off the machine if you need to adjust something or grab a saw or whatever.
The negative to a sideways splitter on a full size skid is that your wheels/tracks are so close to your work that each piece of wood that you want to split has to be out in the open where you can drive up to it.
I have to run my normal log splitter once in a while now just to make sure the gas doesn't spoil in it.
The splitter that does 80% of the work now is the sideways mounted one on the SK350 Ditch Witch mini skid steer that you stand on the back of. IT is mounted sideways instead of straight out unlike the TM on the big skid. Therefore you can articulate it throughout the hydraulic range just like a bucket. And you have great visibility of wedge. Plus, you can just step off the machine if you need to adjust something or grab a saw or whatever.
The negative to a sideways splitter on a full size skid is that your wheels/tracks are so close to your work that each piece of wood that you want to split has to be out in the open where you can drive up to it.
I have to run my normal log splitter once in a while now just to make sure the gas doesn't spoil in it.
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what brand stoves do you feel comfortable referring people too?? HONEST QUESTION
« on: April 01, 2018, 07:12:56 AM »
Hey Heat,
If I were trying to sell someone on reliability of a product, I wouldn't compare it to a Cadillac!
If I were trying to sell someone on reliability of a product, I wouldn't compare it to a Cadillac!
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rubber heater hose?
« on: March 23, 2018, 05:34:03 PM »
I have 3/4 heater hose from the wall in my garage to my homemade water to air hx that heats the garage. no problems. This also allows me to move the heater a bit without disconnecting it when I sweep the floor.
9
HeatMaster / Re: heatmaster mf1000e boiling?
« on: February 03, 2018, 07:13:20 AM »
Copy on the dual return. I thought I was doing something smart by returning to both to distribute the water better.
I do have valves so I shut the top left. Now I am pulling from bottom left and returning to top right. I'm at work now but will report back when I have a chance to sit by the stove during a burn. Thanks.
I do have valves so I shut the top left. Now I am pulling from bottom left and returning to top right. I'm at work now but will report back when I have a chance to sit by the stove during a burn. Thanks.
10
For Sale / Re: PORTAGE AND MAIN BL34-44
« on: February 01, 2018, 10:22:56 PM »
So, what's the magic number?
11
HeatMaster / Re: heatmaster mf1000e boiling?
« on: February 01, 2018, 10:00:02 PM »
thanks for the ideas.
Right now I just have one pump moving water to the house. Next year I will have 2 pumps when I start heating the 40x60 barn.
But, Wreckit kind of killed the moving more water idea with his post.
Yoder, which return nipple runs up to the front of the stove for that area? Or is it both return ports. Because I am returning to both return nipples right now. Even though I only have one pump pulling off the Left Lower port ( looking at back of stove), It split the return to both upper ports.
Burning almost 100% oak that is dry and when it is cycling, it is really rocking. It doesn't seem to matter how I load it, more front or more back, because the fire all concentrates in the same place going up over the plate. But I will take notice more now and pay attention.
I'll be back.
Right now I just have one pump moving water to the house. Next year I will have 2 pumps when I start heating the 40x60 barn.
But, Wreckit kind of killed the moving more water idea with his post.
Yoder, which return nipple runs up to the front of the stove for that area? Or is it both return ports. Because I am returning to both return nipples right now. Even though I only have one pump pulling off the Left Lower port ( looking at back of stove), It split the return to both upper ports.
Burning almost 100% oak that is dry and when it is cycling, it is really rocking. It doesn't seem to matter how I load it, more front or more back, because the fire all concentrates in the same place going up over the plate. But I will take notice more now and pay attention.
I'll be back.
12
HeatMaster / heatmaster mf10000e boiling?
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:59:33 PM »
It sounds like my water is boiling during the burn cycle. 180 off with 10 degree swing. The boiler water temp never goes over 182 on the gauge.
While listening to it, it sounds like it boils right where the fire heads up and over the deflecting plate at the top of fire box. This makes sense because the heat all has to come forward toward the door of stove, then up and over the plate and then to the back of the stove, up into heat exchange tunnel and back toward front of stove then up the chimney.
So, where it hits the top of the firebox, there is only a couple inches of water separating the firebox and exhaust tunnel.
Has anyone else noticed this? And for the experts out there, is it worth doing some engineering to return water toward this area to keep it from boiling? Thanks.
While listening to it, it sounds like it boils right where the fire heads up and over the deflecting plate at the top of fire box. This makes sense because the heat all has to come forward toward the door of stove, then up and over the plate and then to the back of the stove, up into heat exchange tunnel and back toward front of stove then up the chimney.
So, where it hits the top of the firebox, there is only a couple inches of water separating the firebox and exhaust tunnel.
Has anyone else noticed this? And for the experts out there, is it worth doing some engineering to return water toward this area to keep it from boiling? Thanks.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Extending underground PEX
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:45:25 PM »
We made a short run of pipe for my F in Law. It was just 10 feet because his boiler was sitting right outside his basement window.
We just drilled a few holes in the black pipe and filled it with cans of spray foam. You could make your splice and spray foam in the black pipe for 6 feet either way or so.
No guarantee here, but cheap and fast. Cheap, Fast, and Reliable.... pick two.
We just drilled a few holes in the black pipe and filled it with cans of spray foam. You could make your splice and spray foam in the black pipe for 6 feet either way or so.
No guarantee here, but cheap and fast. Cheap, Fast, and Reliable.... pick two.
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Having a major problem
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:38:41 PM »
I believe your goal is to equalize the temperature in your boiler, correct? Just try it one way or the other and see if it works.
Also, have you measured your supply water temp as it leaves the boiler toward the house, and then compared it with what you have at your heat exchanger? Such as using an infared heat temp gun? Meaning, are you sure you are not losing a bunch of heat to the ground?
Let us know what you find.
Also, have you measured your supply water temp as it leaves the boiler toward the house, and then compared it with what you have at your heat exchanger? Such as using an infared heat temp gun? Meaning, are you sure you are not losing a bunch of heat to the ground?
Let us know what you find.
15
Equipment / 395xp with an 18" bar
« on: January 11, 2018, 10:25:22 PM »
Huge Giggle Factor!
the other day my 372xp wore out a clutch bearing so I took the 18 inch bar off of it and put it on the 395xp... Oh my.
the other day my 372xp wore out a clutch bearing so I took the 18 inch bar off of it and put it on the 395xp... Oh my.