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Topics - hondaracer2oo4

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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Video of gasification corrosion.
« on: December 10, 2017, 07:21:48 PM »
I am just going to leave this here.....

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=p_7BPKexaoI

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Wifi data logger
« on: November 25, 2017, 06:30:45 AM »
I picked up a wifi data logger off eBay for a steal, $50 best offer accepted price straight from lascar the manufacturer. It is a lascar wifi tp single sensor. It is cloud based or computer based. I set mine up to be cloud based. They have an app too for the phone that I am using. It shows current temp of sensor and a historical graph. I zip tied mine to the outgoing line back to the boiler right after the flat plate. My temp readings are 4 degrees lower than actual temp. No big deal, I just add 4 degrees for the actual temps. The historical graph is great. Since I strapped it to the return line after the flat plate I can see when the house calls for heat because I get a drop in temp on the graph. I can see how long the house runs for and how often. I can also see when the boiler does a cycle and how long it takes. Here's a screen shot of the app from overnight last night.

3
Shaver Furnace / Shaver is now hyprotherm
« on: November 22, 2017, 06:02:37 AM »
For those of us who are members on the Facebook group outdoor wood boilers you have probably seen two people in the last couple weeks who had been duped by shaver changing their name to hy pro therm. This name change has caused them to miss during their research of a $6000 purchase that the company has a terrible track record as far as warranty claims and overall failure rate of their boilers. I was wondering if we could change the name of this forum  title to Hy Pro Therm/ previously Shaver or something to that affect so that people might actually come across the name when doing research and not make a $6000 mistake like these poor people have done.

4
HeatMaster / Noisy g200 fan
« on: October 28, 2017, 09:04:59 AM »
Just fired up the g200 for the 17/18 season. The fan was quiet at first but after about 10 mins it has somewhat of a metal buzzing sound, kind of like two pieces of metal in close contact buzzing togeather. I pressed on the fan shroud housing from the retro kit but that doesn't make a difference. I unplugged it and it stops immiediately as it was winding down. Not sure if it's just something loose or not. I guess we will see.

5
HeatMaster / G200 loading door gasket replacement
« on: September 17, 2017, 08:43:11 AM »
I just ordered 8 feet of 1 inch regular rope gasket. Has anyone replaced theirs and gone with just gasket exposed or did you spread the high temp silicone over it like it comes from the factory? I developed the drool last year from the bottom of the door and no amount of adjustment would stop it. You could see the place on the gasket that was sucked in s little more than the rest of the gasket at the bottom. I figured it was time to replace the gasket.

6
HeatMaster / Temp readings over heat exchangers
« on: September 13, 2017, 10:37:16 AM »
I know we have had some questions as far as real temp readings over the g200 heat exchangers. I have measured temps between 300-375 leaving the stack with my IR gun. I just ordered this off eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBQ-Smoker-Grill-Stainless-Steel-Thermometer-Temperature-Gauge-60-427-E8-/132065167659?epid=2003963382&hash=item1ebfb2892b:g:9ZEAAOSwnHZYer2q

I think it will give a more accurate reading and it will be easy to just open the door and take a look. My plan is to drill a hole in the back plate and mig weld a nut onto the outside of the plate so that I can thread the gauge in and out to clean off any ash from the probe. Anyone see any problems with this plan? Any issues with using mild steel wire in the mig to weld on the stainless plate?

8
Advanced Electronics / Thermostat control of forced air and oil boiler
« on: September 08, 2017, 07:47:07 PM »
History on the system is that it has been operating fine for the past few years since I built it. I am just curious what others have done and if I could make it operate a little better. I was doing some pre season testing of the oil boiler today and found a flaw that isnt't major but does affect the oil boiler operation a little bit, this wouldn't be a problem for the most part when the owb pumps are pumping water to the house. So here is what I have.

I have a primary/secondary loop system. The owb flat plate heat exchanger is plumbed into the primary loop. The oil boiler is plumbed into the primary loop through a secondary loop. The forced air fan box is plumbed into the primary through a secondary loop.

The house thermostat controls a Honeywell RA89A1074 which is a SPST controller. It provides the low voltage power for the thermostat to operate. The other side of the controller powers the forced air blower. I also needed the thermostat to command the oil boiler to operate. The thermostat wires are tied togeather in the Honeywell controller, it runs over to the oil boiler aquastat which is a Honeywell 8148a. The thermostat wires running over to the aquastat are powered constantly by the ra89a transformer. I placed a relay on the aquastat controlleping the T T terminal. The relay is on n/c but is powered into the open position by the ra89a when the thermostat isn't calling for heat. When the thermostat calls for heat it drops the relay out and the relay powers up the TT terminals on the aquastat so that he oil burner will fire.

The oil boiler is powered through a ranco aquastat. The sensor is hooked to the incoming owb line. It is set to power up the oil boiler if the incoming owb water drops below 155 and turns off when the incoming water hits 163. So here in lies my problem. During the times when the owb isn't running and the owb pumps aren't circulating water through the incoming water lines the temp rises above the 163 mark as the oil boiler circulates water around the primary loop. When the water hits 163 the ranco cuts power to the oil boiler which also kills the oil boiler injection pump. This killing of the oil boiler injection pump allows the water in the primary loop to obviously drop quickly as the forced air pulls the heat quickly out of it but it takes a good 3-4 mins for the owb line to finally drop below 155 and kick the injection pump back on. Like I said during the winter when the owb pump is running then the ranco would quickly see that temp drop because the flat plate would cool down the water but during the off season that water takes a while to cool down.

Is there an easier way to do all this? Like I said it works but is complicated and not perfect.

9
HeatMaster / Heatmaster the good, the bad and the ugly
« on: May 17, 2017, 12:13:15 PM »
Anyone that has been on this forum for longer than a day knows who Slimjim is. Some just know him by his username and some of us know him as Richard. Richard has been great to me since I have known him. He runs a legitimate outdoor boiler company that does everything from sell new and used owb all the way to full installs and troubleshooting. Richard is very approachable about anything I have ever talked with him about and has always looked to do the right thing. This forum has probably grown to th following it has because of Slimjim, people see that he is knowledgable and quick to respond and join the forum for his advice as well as some others.

Over the past 3 months we have all followed the fall out between Richard and Heatmaster. As a customer of heatmaster, who I invested 9k with, I like their product and their customer service because...

The good:

They build a well thought out gasser


The boiler is simple to operate

The boiler is a good grade stainless that suits it's purpose well

The fit and finish is good

The company found some design flaws which any other owb company would have never thought of retrofitting current boilers in the field but heatmaster arranged for the flaws to be fixed

The company takes water samples for free and tells you how much boiler treatment to use

I have never heard of heatmaster ducking out on warranty claims atleast anything major

Richard told me that one boiler customer never cleaned his g200 and plugged it so bad that they just exchanged it out for a new one.

The company wanted quality opinions about their product so much that they gave me $200 worth of boiler treatment and a jacket for answering their questions.

The bad

The company had a design flaw from a change in design that took a few weeks for the customers to get rectified and some still have issues with those designs

The ugly

Richard who cares very much about his products and service was severely impacted from behind the scenes dealer issues with their products and servicing of the products. It is obvious to all of us how hurt Richard has been by the company. It appears that the two can't find any common ground because I think Richard is the best owb dealer and installer in the northeast or further and from a customer stand point I think heatmaster is the best outdoor boiler company on the market because of the points I had. I love Richard to death for the time and energy he has put into this forum and his buisness. Richard, I wish you well and hope you can weather the storm and keep doing what you have always done for this forum and te owb industry. Thank you for what you do.

10
HeatMaster / 10,000 mfe
« on: February 18, 2017, 07:48:45 AM »
Out of curiosity I was wondering about the expierence the 10,000 mfe owners have on here with wood consumption, especially compared to another conventional if you owned one. I've got into a long discussion on one of the Facebook pages about the efficiency of his 10000. He went from an old cb boiler to the 10000 and thinks he may be using more wood. He has adjusted the flapper under the fan to only open less than 50% because this helped his old cb not burn as much wood. He also has his differential set to 5 degrees because "you burn way more wood with a large differential". I can't get him to even entertain using a 20 or 15 degree differential because he says at 160 water temp his forced hot air fan in the house runs twice as long. I am just trying to help this guy out since I know the mf should be much more effiecient than that old
Cb but he is trying to run it for what kept his wood use down on the cb. As far as th flap goes it says nothing in the manual about changing that from th factory setting. Does everyone else
Play with this setting?

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Season is half over!
« on: January 22, 2017, 10:07:01 PM »
Well today marks 3 months of burning for me, started October 22 this year. 2nd year with the g200, pretty mild winter so far, a few cold weeks but other than that not bad. I have hit just about 3.5 cords so far. We will see what the rest of the season brings for temps. No complaints with the boiler, adjusted the damper plate today since I found it staying open 1/4 inch because of the position on the shaft. Fixed that and suddenly found I have zero smoke from the flue in between cycles. It must have happened gradually and the smoke slowly increased with time(very little smoke, I'm talking wiffs). Also found temp climbing to 184-185 after a cycle, I don't remember that happening before. I think shutting the air should fix that too. I'll pull the rear cover off above the hx tubes to check that. Other  than no maitanence needed. I do still have the door gasket leaking issue with creosote. It's really at a minimum and I don't think I can get that right without replacing the gasket, not the right time of year to do that. How's everyone else doing midseason?

12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Actual btus per hour used
« on: December 10, 2016, 06:20:35 PM »
So I am interested in trying to figure what exactly I am using for real btus to heat my house. So I think I have the calculations right, someone please correct me if I am wrong. So I have a g200 which holds 200 gallons. If I am correct to find out how many btus are available at 180 degrees the calc is 200x8.33x180=299,880 btus. So I have timed how long my blower in the house runs for. It runs for typically 7.5 minutes at a shot. After the blower runs the boiler loses approx 3 degrees. So if my calc is correct that means that 200x8.33x177=294882. If we deduct 299880 from 294882 we get 4998 btus used every time the furnace runs. If we break it down further to btus used per minute we would divide 4998 by 7.5=666.4 btus per minute. Right now it's 15 degrees out and the fan is running 7.5 minutes on and 11.5 minutes off. So that means more or less the blower is running 22.5 minutes per hour. So 22.5x666.4=14,827 btus used per hour. Now that seems awful little btus used per hour to me??? My house is 2800 sqft and is 220 years old. I have I insulate apps and air sealed well but it still seems awful low on the btus per hour. I know my Woodstock fireview wood stove which should be putting out around 30k btus per hour at least can no way handle heating the house at these temps we have right now. I know that air isn't moving like the forced hot air is but still??

13
General Discussion / New garage concrete floor protection.
« on: November 30, 2016, 10:55:38 AM »
I just had my 28x40 new garage floor poured two weeks ago. I am wondering about any expierence with concrete protection against mostly road salts and oils. Not interested in going the epoxy route or anything. I am in New England so we have road salts that will be dropping on the floor and my mechanical hobbies so oil splatter at times and weld slag etc. I had looked at the legacy international silax seal. Also looked at concrete sealers USA ps101 product. I would like to spend around 250. Ghost shield I looked at which looks like the best quality but it would be $600.

14
Plumbing / Leaking water to air hx
« on: November 03, 2016, 08:14:28 AM »
The other day I get a call from my wife that something sounds like grinding gears in the basement and no heat. So I have to leave work and figure it out. I found an air locked pump and zero pressure in the indoor boiler side of the system. I figured that one of my air vents had gone bad and was sucking air into the system since I saw no water leaked out anywhere. I refilled the system which I though took a lot of water and purged the pump. All was good until this morning when I went downstairs to check the pressure before work. It was down to 15 psi from 20 psi and there was a puddle under my hydro air box. So I took the cover off the hydro box but can't really see any of
The Coil without taking the box apart. The lines hooked up to the coil from the indoor boiler side are not leaking when they go into the box so it must be a leak in the coil. The coil was bought in 2011 so it has 5 heating seasons on it. Has anyone had one spring a leak? I can only imagine that it's a bad solder joint from manufacturing. It is supposedly has a "lifetime warranty" from the seller. Hopefully they will take car of that.


15
HeatMaster / Flue temp of g200?
« on: November 01, 2016, 06:53:16 AM »
I was wondering if anyone took a flue temp of their 200 when it was new. I know a few factors play out as far as just how hot the gasification is but I checked mine the other day with my IR gun on the inside of the flue pipe and on the back of the stove above the hx pipes where the fan is mounted. I got 325 inside the flue pipe and 315 on the back plate above the hx. I was burning hard maple and it was gassing very well. I was just wondering because I figure at some point the hx pipes should be mechanically cleaned( not a fun job to access) and not just 'shook' off with the turbulators.

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