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 1 
 on: Today at 05:07:11 PM 
Started by coolidge - Last post by coolidge
Looking at a job, guy next door has a Polar.

 2 
 on: Today at 04:17:02 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by wreckit87
Yeah, I read that entire manual and can't find anything pertaining to the issue at hand. I thought about the aquastat thing RSI, but was thinking it needed to be connected to the control board somehow, like to prevent the burner from firing as long as the OWB temp is above 100 or whatever? Electricity isn't for me- I just know the piping side of things. How would one tie the aquastat in with the high limit/ what would that accomplish? Please excuse my ignorance but does the HL also run the setpoint or is that a separate sensor elsewhere?

 3 
 on: Today at 04:15:02 PM 
Started by DeerMeadowFarm - Last post by hoardac
I used high temp black silicone with that stuff on my old wood doctor.

 4 
 on: Today at 02:39:44 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by RSI
What would happen if you put a strap on aquastat on the OWB pipe and connect in parallel with the high limit?

 5 
 on: Today at 02:00:50 PM 
Started by ralphxj - Last post by ralphxj
I finally placed my order for an x320!! Excited to get it setup and running for this winter. Of course they announced the new x410 like 2 hours after I placed my order with a reseller through eBay, but I can always upgrade if I out grow the x320. I'll update as I get it installed and running.

Looks like they also have an adaptor to use Type-K Thermocouples with the new x410 as well!! Figures, after over a year of planning they release the cool new stuff the day after I place my order for the x320.

 6 
 on: Today at 12:48:23 PM 
Started by DeerMeadowFarm - Last post by DeerMeadowFarm
I ordered the Portage and Main silicone super door gasket stuff for my CB. What should I use for adhesive?

 7 
 on: Today at 10:09:27 AM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by hondaracer2oo4
I haven't had time to read over the manual yet but here it is.

http://www.dunkirk.com/sites/default/files/Q90-100%20Series%20Conversion%20Kit%20Instructions%20DSI%20to%20HSI.pdf

 8 
 on: Today at 09:56:29 AM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by wreckit87
So I piped an OWB into a guy's existing system yesterday. Boiler loop heats a 20 plate, Taco 007 draws hot water from the plate, through a mixer, into a Lennox Q90-100 LP boiler which serves an 8 loop radiant system. Now, I've done this dozens of times before and left the wiring up to someone smart, it works out fine but I've never seen a boiler like this Lennox that has no setpoint control. The only aquastat is a high limit, and when operating the boiler puts out 120 degree water and short cycles every 90 seconds or so. I turned the mixing valve up to 130 thinking it'd cut out the gas burner while the stat continued to spin the pump, which it did once the supply water had reached temp. Problem is though, that the inducer fan never shuts off. And every 5 minutes or so, the igniter would light up and gas valve open, fire the burner for 3 seconds and then shut down again.

Given the insulation quality and size of the loops, I want to run 100ish degree water through the mixer instead of 130. At that, the gas burner will want to run all the time. Dude wants to keep the Lennox in operation if possible as a backup and to keep the OWB loop from freezing up if need be, so adding another stat to power the pump only was all my feeble mind could produce. He wants to do the electrical himself, so I was wondering if any of you gentlemen could explain this to me so I have some insight on what to tell him. I'm at a loss. Thanks in advance

 9 
 on: Today at 09:48:53 AM 
Started by mlappin - Last post by mlappin
Well sometimes the internet isnít completely full of crap. Found a fifty pound bag of silica sand, threw a couple of cupfuls in the hole in the wall, turned water down to a trickle, ran the bit in, did that two or three times then it finally started cutting. Found anytime it seemed like feed speed was dropping off, bring it back out and some sand in the hole, some more in the bit itself. With the trickle of water when the sand did start to come out it would pack a little around the core bit and act as a dam to keep more slurry in the hole. Went 5 inches or better repacking the hole with sand about every inch, finally got thru the rock then speed picked up drastically once it was cutting part rock, part mortar. Probably had a rock in the wall 10-12 inches in diameter and of course thatís where I decided to drill.

 10 
 on: Today at 09:19:47 AM 
Started by RSI - Last post by wreckit87
Sorry, I had something completely different in my noggin for some reason. You are correct, it would go straight back to the HX. I still stand by using 3 pumps with individual manifolds to keep the loops separated, mostly due to the fact that if the sole pump decides to take a crap, nobody gets any water... I just like to ensure that everything is separated and self sufficient, plus I don't like the idea of the actuators. Cost would be in the same ballpark either way, with a lot less wiring and clutter IMO. My $.02 aren't really important though, if you're content with it by all means do it up!

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