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 1 
 on: February 19, 2018, 11:27:49 PM 
Started by Mr. Maple - Last post by heat550
Just to add . I tested some wet oak blocks in stove leaving it set to slabs drafting they don't burn they smolder. But they work good to keep a coal to start the slabs .. the drafting does work perfect . Set draft to moiture in wood . Just like old indoor stoves.. but saves you alot of wood that's for sure..

 2 
 on: February 19, 2018, 11:20:03 PM 
Started by heat550 - Last post by heat550
I'm only going to burn about 11 cord of oak  slabsbuildings 50-76f
6600 sqft heating 1976 and 1991 houses . There not what you call super insulated. Everything needs a good insulation crack filling .
Shop and garage needs new garage door seals also . And my one house is held at 76f 28x48 ft.

Heat550

 3 
 on: February 19, 2018, 09:21:09 PM 
Started by braveblaster - Last post by MD20/20
I got my Rehau from RSI. He was helpful and did what he said he would.

 4 
 on: February 19, 2018, 06:07:50 PM 
Started by braveblaster - Last post by braveblaster
Thanks guys for the feedback, no offense taken at all. Any links to the sources mentioned?

 5 
 on: February 19, 2018, 05:30:56 PM 
Started by braveblaster - Last post by wreckit87
I'm not entirely sure how to say this without sounding like a dick, but you're already doing it a second time because of cheap line. Why would you subject yourself to doing it a third time? My theory is do it once and do it right; there's a reason they call that wrap stuff "do-over line". If you only need 100 feet it's only an extra ~$600 to invest in something like Thermopex or Rehau with a full closed cell foam core. That'll last 100 years and will completely eliminate the possibility of water infiltration.

 6 
 on: February 19, 2018, 05:22:56 PM 
Started by braveblaster - Last post by juddspaintballs
The drain tile is still a problem.  Once water gets in, the insulation inside will absorb the water and you'll have the same situation you have now.  Spend the money on Thermopex, Logstor, Rehau, etc. and only re-do your lines this one time and never have to worry about them again.  Those products have a thick outer shell compared to drain tile piping so they shouldn't allow infiltration ever and the foam inside is closed cell foam that won't absorb water if it does. 

 7 
 on: February 19, 2018, 04:48:23 PM 
Started by braveblaster - Last post by braveblaster
Well, times had come to redo the pex lines from the stove to the house.

I have the original 3 wraps lines shipped with the stove and am losing great amount of heat plus on initial installation I committed the biggest sin, "spliced" (a rookie mistake) underground connections and now I have massive leaks.

With that said, everything is coming out and will be installing new lines this spring. The insulated pex lines I have eyes on are on the link below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-of-TSP-Insulated-Boiler-Pex-Pipe-/302146592099

Anyone with experiences from this store, the sellers and the lines themselves?

 8 
 on: February 19, 2018, 04:30:48 PM 
Started by woodbutcher - Last post by shepherd boy
  A couple things I'd like to respond to: Silicone on a gasket makes it soft, not hard. What makes it hard is moisture that contains creosote. This same creosote is also what makes the door and hardware rust. The answer is to minimize moisture on the door. Doors on MF and C series are both mild steel and are subject to corrosion.
   Things that help furnace run dry:  Longer burn cycles, lots of air flow-like 100%, Short chimneys, bigger wood.
   I burn big wood, if it goes in the door it doesn't get split, no extension on chimney,air flow at 100%.  3rd year on a C375, same door gasket, powder in top chamber.
   
  Woodbutcher, I think you posted in Sept of 2015 you paid $9050 for your furnace, Typo ?

 9 
 on: February 19, 2018, 04:21:48 PM 
Started by heat550 - Last post by braveblaster
70 day and 72 at night.

 10 
 on: February 19, 2018, 11:16:11 AM 
Started by MO_Hunter - Last post by MO_Hunter
Thanks all

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