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Author Topic: Is a 28-40 right for me?  (Read 4180 times)

BIggadorby

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Is a 28-40 right for me?
« on: August 12, 2017, 08:48:00 PM »

Im about to pull the trigger on a new stove. Iv been eying a 28-40 for a couple years now to replace a very old taylor 450. Im in nw Pa hour south of lake erie. Usually dont get -degrees f, but if it does its only during nights and 10-15 below. Maby last a few days to a week. 2,800 sq ft house sided n pretty insulated.also wanting to do dhw in series before hx. My taylor burns a good 8-9hours when cold (say teens or 20's).i know the p&m has a bigger box, im just worried about the small water jacket even though its designed for a reason. Think ill be ok with this?
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slimjim

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2017, 04:44:50 AM »

You better check on legality, I think if it's sold with the shaker grates to burn coal in PA it's ok but the paperwork should say coal only, great stove, it will do the job for you but use caution on the legality.
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shepherd boy

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2017, 05:24:37 AM »

Slim's right. Needs a UL coal only sticker and you have a legal stove. If the law is ever enforced , you need a home inspection or questioned by insurance, you have a legal stove. What you put in it may be in question but the stove is legal. Insurance is our bigger concern at present. Had a Insurance company from a neighboring house to question the legality of a stove. Water capacity is of no real concern.
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mlappin

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2017, 07:53:56 AM »

Slim's right. Needs a UL coal only sticker and you have a legal stove. If the law is ever enforced , you need a home inspection or questioned by insurance, you have a legal stove. What you put in it may be in question but the stove is legal. Insurance is our bigger concern at present. Had a Insurance company from a neighboring house to question the legality of a stove. Water capacity is of no real concern.

Here of course insurance company, but I'd be more worried about a noisy neighbor or the property tax accessor running his mouth to someone at the county level.
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BIggadorby

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2017, 07:26:17 PM »

Yes its the shaker grate coal stoves that the dealers sell around here. My insurance co. Rep didnt seem to care about the current taylor.
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mlappin

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2017, 08:10:22 PM »

Yes its the shaker grate coal stoves that the dealers sell around here. My insurance co. Rep didnt seem to care about the current taylor.

Here the county is getting sneaky, soon as you get a building permit they seem to automatically want to send an accessor out as soon as your finished.
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shepherd boy

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2017, 03:11:24 AM »

Your current Tayor is legal, built before EPA deadline and UL for wood burn. But now EPA regs exempt UL Coal for residential use. It is true that some places there is no enforcement at present, but what does the future hold? But if you have the UL coal sticker your good to go regardless.Wood and coal sticker is illegal to fed standard if it is ever enforced.
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Dieselwrencher

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2017, 03:34:41 PM »

   If you like the BL series you should take a look at the crown royal 7300mp.   I feel the efficiency is same or better with the turbo draft.  I've Burned both.  plus they are 409ss and have smoke bypass
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BIggadorby

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2017, 05:08:45 PM »

How do you guys feel about newer stainless stoves. My old taylor is stainless but sidewalls are paper thin, thats why i was wanting to go steel. It is 20 or more yrs old. But sides are thivker than stainless versions
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Dieselwrencher

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #9 on: August 16, 2017, 07:31:45 PM »

Most stainless units are made with 10 ga or roughly 1/8" material because of the lifespan while mild units use 1/4 because the rust away much faster.     Knowing that any 409 SS unit is going to sound like it's thin,but it will without a doubt resist corrosion much longer.     409 can also withstand higher continuous temps.    I just cleaned up a 2 yr old unit that sat full of ashes all summer and chipped out some creosote from a few spots and I should take a pic as the steel looks like new, even shines yet.
   There has been a few brands made with 304ss , these are much thinner yet , don't know if that's what yours is ,I thought taylors were all mild steel.    304 can be hard to work with from my understanding
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mlappin

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #10 on: August 16, 2017, 08:02:24 PM »

Most stainless units are made with 10 ga or roughly 1/8" material because of the lifespan while mild units use 1/4 because the rust away much faster.     Knowing that any 409 SS unit is going to sound like it's thin,but it will without a doubt resist corrosion much longer.     409 can also withstand higher continuous temps.    I just cleaned up a 2 yr old unit that sat full of ashes all summer and chipped out some creosote from a few spots and I should take a pic as the steel looks like new, even shines yet.
   There has been a few brands made with 304ss , these are much thinner yet , don't know if that's what yours is ,I thought taylors were all mild steel.    304 can be hard to work with from my understanding

If I recall 304 tends to spider crack eventually from continued exposure to heat, once it spider cracks forget it, you’re wasting you’re time. 304 can also be weird to weld unless you have a TIG machine, I’ve welded plenty with AC stick and wire, but anything thats out of position forget it, a DC welder makes it a little easier but still sucks. 

If designed correctly 10 gauge is incredibly tough, a lot of the internals on our combines are nothing more than ten gauge and can withstand continuous punishment from some very abrasive materials, soybean and corn shucks mainly and take a hit from the occasional rock that accidentally gets ingested. Our newest machine actually has 1/4” stainless flighting in it on the augers, I’ll never have to reflight one of those.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2017, 08:44:56 PM by mlappin »
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E Yoder

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #11 on: August 16, 2017, 08:40:00 PM »

Most stainless units are made with 10 ga or roughly 1/8" material because of the lifespan while mild units use 1/4 because the rust away much faster.     Knowing that any 409 SS unit is going to sound like it's thin,but it will without a doubt resist corrosion much longer.     409 can also withstand higher continuous temps.    I just cleaned up a 2 yr old unit that sat full of ashes all summer and chipped out some creosote from a few spots and I should take a pic as the steel looks like new, even shines yet.
   There has been a few brands made with 304ss , these are much thinner yet , don't know if that's what yours is ,I thought taylors were all mild steel.    304 can be hard to work with from my understanding
Taylor started using 304 SS in the firebox floor, exhaust tubes I think. Mild steel elsewhere.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2017, 05:36:04 AM by E Yoder »
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mlappin

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #12 on: August 16, 2017, 08:47:12 PM »

Most stainless units are made with 10 ga or roughly 1/8" material because of the lifespan while mild units use 1/4 because the rust away much faster.     Knowing that any 409 SS unit is going to sound like it's thin,but it will without a doubt resist corrosion much longer.     409 can also withstand higher continuous temps.    I just cleaned up a 2 yr old unit that sat full of ashes all summer and chipped out some creosote from a few spots and I should take a pic as the steel looks like new, even shines yet.
   There has been a few brands made with 304ss , these are much thinner yet , don't know if that's what yours is ,I thought taylors were all mild steel.    304 can be hard to work with from my understanding
Taylor started using 304 SS in the firebox floor, exhaust tubes I think. Mild steel elsewhere. I agree on old 409 staying in good shape under creosote and moisture for years. I've seen it quite a few times.

The flex pipe from the manifold drop to the rest of the exhaust on one of my straight trucks is 409, bought it from JC Whitney and it was listed for use in marine environments, regular mild steel flex pipe you might as well buy a roll of that as it rots out yearly. Think I installed the 409 ten years ago or better.
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slimjim

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Re: Is a 28-40 right for me?
« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2017, 05:26:55 AM »

Do we really need to go there on the stainless and it's so called corrosion resistance, remember the pics I posted of the G 100 and all the rust on its stainless, maybe it wasn't the best quality stainless after all?
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