Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 1 
 on: March 15, 2024, 05:24:41 PM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Walleye
Put mine on a timer to run one hour a day

 2 
 on: March 15, 2024, 11:26:06 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Scratch
I unplug mine… when I remember to.  I’ve been burning 16 years and I’ll bet half of them have been plugged in year round.

 3 
 on: March 14, 2024, 09:36:53 PM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Super44
I also unplug mine for the summer.

 4 
 on: March 12, 2024, 03:51:13 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Hunt4heat
Hi all, had a 1 in 90° breast fitting leaking connected to my supply PEX line. Cut it out and replaced it, my question is how do these systems prime as far as does the pump reprime the whole system after a certain amount of time running or do you have to force water back into the line with garden hose connected to ball valve fitting in basement? Only about a quart of water came out when I cut the line so it makes me think I should not have to refill but when I did that the opposite line (do you return line) would not fill with water but I'm also unsure of if it was because the thermostatic valve would not open because so much time passed that the water cooled off?

 5 
 on: March 12, 2024, 03:46:16 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Hunt4heat
Hi, I know some people run their boiler year round. I do not and I'm wondering if what I've been doing is correct in the past? Usually once temperatures stay above freezing I unplug my taco pump (is it good for it to have a rest or possibly make it wear out quicker than just running year-round?)

 6 
 on: March 11, 2024, 10:05:14 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by bjp
From the support site:

Quote
MolyArmor 350 can be added to a system currently treated with 1650XL (or 1650XL and MolyBoost) without draining and flushing as long as the system has been maintained with adequate nitrite levels to prevent corrosion. If adding MolyArmor 350 to the system with nitrite, it is important to use the full treatment amount of the MolyArmor 350 (see table) to achieve 350 ppm of moly. After the system is fully treated to 350 ppm using MolyArmor 350, there is no need to continue monitoring the nitrite level. Instead, the moly and pH levels can be monitored with test strips to maintain the 350ppm moly and pH 8.0 to 9.5.

I would drain a little out to check for sludge but if you have kept nitrite at proper levels, skip the drain/flush and just add Moly 350 to what you already have.

 7 
 on: March 11, 2024, 09:21:28 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Hunt4heat
What is procedure to clear out old water/inhibitor mixture to start fresh with new molly inhibitor and clean water after running old inhibitor for 8 years in cb1450 e classic?( I'm assuming I need to drain at outdoor bottom left valve b/c it's the lowest point in system but how can I flush all old water/junk out?)

 8 
 on: March 11, 2024, 05:11:30 AM 
Started by Hunt4heat - Last post by Hunt4heat
Hi, been using the old rust inhibitor since 2016 outdoor wood burner installed. Developed a leak in the 90° fitting and had to replace it and now the only thing available is Molly. I would like to just drain the system and start fresh. Do I need to flush the system and how do I go about flushing and filling on a central boiler eclassic 1450?

 9 
 on: December 31, 2023, 03:16:40 PM 
Started by bjp - Last post by bjp
Pleased to say that cleaning out the air channels fixed my boiler issues. It was having trouble maintaining anything over 600F, now it spends most of each burn cycle above 1300F, back where it belongs. Last year I burned a bit too much oak that wasn't dry enough, and that probably contributed to the problem. Working great now.

 10 
 on: December 25, 2023, 07:03:20 AM 
Started by bjp - Last post by Walleye
 :thumbup:

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10