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Messages - wreckit87

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1
General Discussion / Re: Coldest Weather Of The Season On The Way
« on: December 25, 2020, 07:21:57 AM »
Wednesday night we had -6 ambient with 60mph winds effectively making it -50F with windchill. Yesterday hung around 0 all day with 10-15 mph winds and then last night dropped down to -13. Sitting at -2 and calm right now, furnace hasn't kicked on in almost an hour!

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water filter
« on: June 08, 2020, 08:35:33 AM »
None for me either, just a wye strainer which is always clear when I check it annually. I think your stove and piping along with treatment will determine the need for a filter, stainless stoves with barrier pex and proper treatment should never have any buildup to speak of but any mild steel system with plumbing pex will be more susceptible.

3
General Discussion / Drill bits
« on: May 20, 2020, 04:00:01 PM »
What's your favorite drill bit for carbon steel? I've bought about 20 different sets over the years all claiming to be the best and they all either dull very quickly, bend, or break when the final grab happens drilling though steel. DeWalt and Milwaukee I think were the worst, ironically enough. About all that's left is the $10 set from Harbor Freight but I'm pretty sure I'd have better luck trying to burn through steel by lighting that $10 bill on fire. I did recently buy a set of Irwin bits for my job trailer and they've been great but that's pretty light duty stuff for the most part so I don't know how they would perform in drill press duty. At this point I'd gladly pay top dollar for something that's not always dull or broken

4
General Discussion / Re: Wiring new garage
« on: May 09, 2020, 02:35:54 PM »
I set 4/12 trusses on top and wrapped the whole thing with ribbed steel so it looks like any other shed, same colors to match my shop. Inside is pretty lame looking, all the freezer panels were used so they're beat up and full of butyl caulk (from between the panel seams for moisture barrier when it was a freezer) and have weird holes and stuff everywhere from lights, conduit, evaporators, shelving, refrigerant lines, etc but it works. I was originally going to frame another 2x4 wall inside just to hide all the sin but decided I didn't care that much what it looks like in there, I didn't even paint it. As for the heat, it'll be all electric during shoulder seasons and maybe fulltime if I get sick of burning wood. I did bury 25mm Thermopex over there from the OWB and ran a unit heater last winter but I also have 6 loops in the slab and 3 more loops of radiant on the ceiling. Heat loss of this whole building (1560 sq ft) at 70 inside and -30 outside is only 17,000 BTU so even on electric a bad month would only be $50 or so

5
General Discussion / Wiring new garage
« on: May 08, 2020, 12:17:14 PM »
Hey guys, hope everyone is staying clear of the Chinese sneeze disease and keeping healthy. I put up a garage about a year and a half ago and have been slowly picking away at the finishes as I have time and ambition (not a common scenario). It's come time for the electrical now and I'm questioning some of my earlier decisions. This garage is actually built out of 4x10ft insulated panels repurposed from a couple walk-in freezers, so 3 walls and the whole ceiling are all 5" thick high density urethane foam with a 26ga galvalume sheet on each side for the finish. The 4th wall I stick framed from 2x6 to have structure for the 16ft overhead door and service door, then had it filled with closed cell spray foam to seal it up tight. This whole thing was set on top of a heated slab with thickened edges and I ran the electrical in through the slab to enter inside that gable wall, thinking I could bury the panel inside that wall and have a seamless look up there. I did mount the panel and had it all piped from the service entry and grounded to the rebar per code, then had the whole thing foamed in tight so now the panel is recessed into the wall. Given the nature of the freezer wall panels, I have to run exposed conduit which is fine- but I didn't think ahead far enough to figure out how to get from the recessed panel to surface mounted conduit without it looking ridiculous. I haven't sheeted the stick framed wall yet but plan to do it very soon, maybe this weekend, and did pick up a 6x6 pull box thinking maybe I'd mount it up high near the ceiling and recess it just the 1/2" depth of the sheathing so I can get a liquid tight elbow in the back of it and straight down to the panel with hard pipe. There will be 2 outlet circuits, 1 light circuit, 1 garage door circuit, and 1 220V circuit for the electric boiler all coming through here before splitting off so I set it up for 1" pipe and will run 1/2" to everything except the boiler will be 3/4" due to the 8ga wires. The more I think about it though, the more I think it's going to look ridiculous with the pull box hanging out there and an octopus of EMT coming out of it while the panel is nice and flush mounted with the sheathing. Anybody ever run into this sort of thing or have some input?

6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Boiler & Garage Up in Flames
« on: February 18, 2020, 08:27:46 AM »
Oh no, I am so sorry to hear this! Was the garage a total loss? From this point of view it looks to be mostly still there but could be an optical illusion. As for coverage of motor vehicles, ATVs and snowmobiles and things like that which are licensed should have their own "inland marine" policies but any lawn mower, tiller, chainsaw, etc should be covered under your homeowner's "personal property" policy. I just went over this about a month ago with my insurer after building a new garage. I hope everything works out okay for you, and am glad nobody was hurt.

7
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 08, 2020, 10:32:53 AM »
Very strange Eldon, your chart says very different from mine for some reason. Even if you look at the technical specs on supplyhouse for that same plate, it says 8.6 PSI at 6.2 GPM. Odd they'd have 3 different sets of specs for the exact same plate!

8
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 02, 2020, 11:08:20 AM »
The pressure drop across a 3x8 30 plate is 17 feet of head at 7 GPM versus a 20 plate 5x12 with 2 feet of head at the same flow rate. A 3x8 will destroy the flow rate in any system if piped in series, and unless you're living in a doghouse you'll need more than 2 GPM. The extra $30 you spend on a 5x12 will be recovered in 2 months of electrical usage by using a smaller pump
Interesting, I looked up the same 3x8 30 plate and am seeing 1.4 psi at 7.2 gpm.

My Xlyem/ Bell & Gossett chart says otherwise. What brand plates are you using and where could I find that data?

9
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 31, 2020, 04:29:39 PM »
The pressure drop across a 3x8 30 plate is 17 feet of head at 7 GPM versus a 20 plate 5x12 with 2 feet of head at the same flow rate. A 3x8 will destroy the flow rate in any system if piped in series, and unless you're living in a doghouse you'll need more than 2 GPM. The extra $30 you spend on a 5x12 will be recovered in 2 months of electrical usage by using a smaller pump

10
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 30, 2020, 03:45:09 PM »
Copper definitely has more conductivity than pex, but emissivity I don't know. I'd think it's also more or they'd be making radiators out of plastic by now instead of copper? Same theory for the paint, I'd think that would hurt emission more than help. I was always under the impression that copper/brass automotive radiators were painted solely for corrosion purposes. Notice most aluminum rads in today's vehicles are unpainted

11
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 27, 2020, 04:00:03 PM »
Just thinking out loud, but what if you were to grab a roll of 1/2" pex and zip tie it into a slinky, like they do for geothermal trench loops, and bury that in the stud bays? Say maybe 100-150 feet per stud bay? Then you'd have a lot more coverage than trying to fight copper, as the slinky loops would simply overlap each other and get you a lot of emitter in a not so big area.. Might be kind of a bugger to get coiled, but should do nicely once in the cavity I'd think

12
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 26, 2020, 11:59:04 AM »
Bare copper doesn't emit very much radiant heat, in a baseboard scenario we'd be talking ~50 BTU per foot with 3/4" type L and 180 degree water. I wonder what the actual output would be in a wall like this

13
Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: January 22, 2020, 05:12:40 PM »
If the sidearm already existed, there would be no harm in leaving it there and simply adding the plate to the incoming cold line on top- assuming your sidearm is piped through the relief port on the side, that is. That'd get you the best of both worlds if you ever go long stretches without using DHW

14
HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration
« on: January 12, 2020, 03:49:47 PM »
Really Darin, I’m rambling, I saw the door and recognized the problem HeatMaster product, none of you HeatMaster guys recognized it or would help, now with it being a larger thread, perhaps HeatMaster won’t blame the homeowner as they did originally and will replace the problem boiler, what gets under your skin is that again you missed the issue and I didn’t!

I believe you have me confused with someone else, and I have no dog in this fight. I do however, find humor in your ridiculous antics and that is my sole reason for commenting. Everything I've seen you say in the couple years I've been here has been some sort of lunatic agenda against Heatmaster, for whatever reason. I own a Heatmaster and have had very good luck with it, nothing further.

15
HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration
« on: January 11, 2020, 08:19:50 AM »


But anyway, perhaps the person crying about the subject here should shut his yap about other people not helping the OP if he's not going to help himself. What was that old saying about a pot and a kettle again?


Well, if it's me your refering to, I am NOT a dealer for any brand or pretending to be an so called expert. I received valuable information and assistance from this site and the old outdoor boiler site years ago when I was getting started. People made these sites helpful, where someone like the OP could get some helpful information or advice. Not so much anymore. If I had the info or connections to HM that the good dealers here must have, I would be right in there helping him, but that's not what seems to be happening. I guess since he didn't purchase the unit from someone here he's on his own?
I posted on this thread not because I have the answer to his issues, but trying to get you back to the real reason , for me anyway, why most members joined here, to learn and to help others with their outdoor furnace.

My reference was not to you at all, but SlimJim and his agenda. I apologize if it sounded like I was pointing fingers at you. Slim has this tendency to babble on and on about nothing, blaming everybody else for things he could easily take care of himself. A "pot stirrer" if you will. So his ramblings here about nobody else helping the OP when he himself is only hurting the OP by rambling, gets under my skin and I'm sure I'm not the only one

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