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Messages - terpjr

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1
Equipment / Re: 562xp Fuel Delivery Issue
« on: October 22, 2018, 09:56:54 AM »
I may have gotten the purge (primer) bulb backward...going to have to check it out at home later...
Which would cause it to only drawn fuel in through the tank vent (which would make sense for only priming on its side...

I did a visual inspection of the fuel line but won’t be able to truly tell until I pull it.

I am going to flip the purge bulb...I have a new fuel line on order...so, if the flip doesn’t solve, I will move on to that...’

2
Equipment / 562xp Fuel Delivery Issue
« on: October 21, 2018, 01:38:31 PM »
Have a Husqvarna 562 xp with an apparent fuel delivery issue.

Haven’t done much cutting the last two years...most of my wood is getting delivered in bucked rounds (pretty sweet deal). But even so, my 562 has been running flawlessly.  Started it up for the first time since summer yesterday and it would not start.  I did my usual procedure - a couple pumps of the purge bulb, flip the choke up, two pulls, fire, flip the choke down, 2 pulls and run.  Except it did not run. 
I then noticed a hole in the purge bulb...and noticed that it was not filling with fuel when purging.
I replaced that today.
It would not fill with fuel unless laying on its side.  Upright it would not fill.
On its side it runs, upright it fires after purging, runs for 10 seconds and dies.

1.  Is the bulb supposed to fill with fuel when purging?  I have never paid attention until there is now a problem....I don’t remember what is right.  I feel like it usually fills.
2.  I assume the problem is somewhere in the tank...like...if it is on its side the line in the tank is under fuel so it isn’t sucking  air...but then when it is upright it is sucking air...not really sure.

Inspecting the lines that are visible when I remove the air filter revel no cracks or obvious issues...

With the 562 - what is going on inside the tanks?  From the parts diagrams, it appears there is a tank vent...what is the replacement procedure?  How much line is attached?  How does a person fish it out?

Thanks

3
WoodMaster / Water Level Indicator
« on: January 06, 2018, 10:27:06 AM »
Went out to the furnace yesterday morning and green water light was off.  I assumed I was low on water (evaporation does that) but 3 gallons had it overflowing out of the stand pipe.  Light was still off.

So, I would assume the LED had burned out but...that is not the most likely scenario...I had to replace the ETC unit last year...(had a structural in a small building near the furnace, melted the digital display of the ETC and badly deformed it)...I still have the leftover parts and once the outside temps get back above 0, I am going to replace it with the still function LED indicator from the old one...assuming that the LED still does not come on (which if it does come on, problem solved, I will call the company that I bought the ETC from and ask for a replacement since it malfunctioned after less than a year) the issue must be in the float assembly.

So my question is the actual float assembly...where on the furnace is it, how do I remove/access it, any hints/tips?  This is one part of the furnace I am not yet familiar with...

Thanks,
Steve

4
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Heating Pool-update
« on: July 12, 2017, 01:52:26 PM »
Oh yeah.  Had a spare garden cart hanging around, that is being dedicated for hose/pump storage so I don't clutter things up when not in use.

5
Pools & Hot Tubs / Heating Pool-update
« on: July 12, 2017, 01:51:23 PM »
The cheap exchanger on Craigslist disappeared, I ended up buying a 155K btu stainless steel pool exchanger online- $175, 2 rolls of 100' 3/4" hose, and a utility pump. 
Had a Taco 007 in the basement from a job I did, plumbed that into my OWB to run the loop to the pool exchanger, put that in a wooden case under the boiler. Put 2 unions in to disconnect and store for the winter.  2 quick disconnects for the garden hose and I am off and running. 
So far, 6 degree drop in the loop to the heat exchanger.  Raised the heat if the pool 2 degrees in an hour and a half.  Overall pleased with the whole setup.  Thanks for the ideas.  Total investment: $300. 

6
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Pool Setup - your thoughts?
« on: May 09, 2017, 08:47:25 AM »
That is awesome info.  Kind of what I was thinking.
Do you have a link to the pump you use?  By utility pump - you mean like a sump pump? What about hose?  Just regular garden hose or something bigger dia/more HD?
 I was incorrect about the BTU's - missed a 0.  It is 100K.

As far as the furnace end of things - I use a Taco 011 to run my loop to the basement, but with such a short, continuous loop, would an 007 work?

Thanks,

7
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Pool Setup - your thoughts?
« on: May 09, 2017, 04:02:32 AM »
Those are questions I was wondering...
How do I hook into my existing pool pump system to move water 200' while not impacting its regular function?
Separate pump?

8
Pools & Hot Tubs / Pool Setup - your thoughts?
« on: May 08, 2017, 08:40:41 PM »
I have a woodmaster4400, have an 18' round above ground pool.
Only spent $400 on it a couple years ago, to hold us over until we can put in our dream pool.
Would love it if we could warm up our pool and extend our season a little...has not really been economically feasible until now...or so I think.  I am looking for a temporary stop gap that does not cost me much $$.

A local guy is stilling a stainless steel tube-style heat exchanger (designed for OWB and pool), 10K btu for $75.  This is a solid deal.

Pool is roughly 100' from OWB. 

My thoughts:
1.  Plumb a pex loop to heat exchanger close to back of OWB.  Like 2' from it.  I have an extra Taco 007 pump on my supply Shelf.   IS this pump appropriate for a short loop?
2.  Run a cheap, flexible on the ground surface on days that I want to heat the pool (before company comes...after a a couple cool days), so, not run it too often, just often enough to make the pool a little better.
I know I will lose lots of heat but I would rather have flexible hoses that I can roll up and store when not in use.
How would I circulate water from pool at such a great distance?
Is this do-able?

9
Lol...my 30 degree temp problem was due to inaccuracy in my thermometer.

It was reading 30 degrees lower in the basement than it was at the furnace...send AND return (lol).

10
Thank you for the explanation.
Held my IR thermometer against the pex,
Ended up a 13 degree difference between stove exit and return.  I feel like this was pretty good.
A mild night...I'm going to keep checking, see what I average.

Thanks for the help. 

11
Ok...
I took my infrared thermometer and a few pieces of elec tape and I got readings that were all over the map.

I understand that it will not be my actual water temp...
But I was getting my return line warmer than my send line...my temps in the basement 30 degrees lower than my temps at the furnace (both send and return)...
I get the feeling that I am not getting accurate numbers...any tips?

Also...how in the world do I measure stack temp?

12
Also,
How often do people clean ashes from their furnace?

13
Hey guys,
Have had a Woodmaster 4400 for 9 years now...
It is used to heat a 3000 square foot house - old farmhouse, newly (But traditionally) insulated (meaning no blown-in etc..).  Furnace is 75' from basement.  So, 150' loop. 
I burn 15+ Cord of hardwood (of varying degrees of seasoning) in the Oct-May heating season.  Upstate NY but not way upstate - Albany area.  There is a fair amount of wind, also heats domestic hot water.

In reading here, I feel as though I am using too much wood.  We do keep the house fairly warm all winter long. 

So, how do I assess my system -
Woodmaster 4400, pumped by Taco 011 to plate exchanger, circulated to furnace and distribution manifold by an 007 or 005 pump (furnace is oil furnace, sits unplugged), circulated through the house by taco 007's.

I have an infrared gun style thermometer.

What is the best way to get temp readings on PEX? 

What is an ideal drop in temp from leaving OWD to entering OWB when calling for heat?  When not?

How much temp should I expect to lose before it gets to exchanger? 

How much should I lose in exchanger?

Is there a way to turn up or turn down the 011 pump?

What about stack temp?  How do I measure that?  What is ideal?

I know there are a lot of questions that are answered on the site...but sometimes I feel like I am not quite understanding stuff..

14
WoodMaster / Re: Woodmaster 4400 ETC temp high limit change -answer
« on: March 05, 2017, 06:22:20 PM »
Ok.

Answered my own question.

Found manual for temperature controller of ETC.

http://www.emersonclimate.com/europe/ProductDocuments/DixellLiterature/XR30CX-GB.pdf

Accessing Hidden MEnu
1.  Hold Down and Set for 3 seconds - degree F will blink.
2.  Hold Down and Set for 7 seconds.
3.  Pr2 will flash and then Hy.
4.  Press the set button to scroll through parameters you can change. - in this case US (upper set point).
5.  Use up and down arrow to select parameter you want and press set.  Wait until it goes back to regular menu.

Note - now all you have changed is the upper set limit, you still need to change what you have it set at (as explained in regular manual).

It appears you can set it as high as 230 degrees (this doesn't seem like a good idea...


15
WoodMaster / Woodmaster 4400 ETC temp high limit change
« on: March 04, 2017, 01:46:10 PM »
Hey guys,
Need help...have scoured the web and can't find my answer.

Have a 10 year old 4400...had a small fire in an outbuilding...melted my ETC. 
Got a new one, plugged in, I am up and running.

On my old one, about 7 years ago I, finally, found online how to adjust my high limit over 180.
I know it comes factory set at 170-160.  I was experimenting with my limits and differential that my best setup was 185/175.
I found these instructions a long time ago, did it once and never thought about it again.

Now I can't find...
I seem to remember you had to go into programming mode...and from there I am drawing a blank.

Help if anyone knows.

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