Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 on: Today at 04:49:11 AM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by Cabo
Typically around here you would install install an engineered wood floor system inside your ICF's similar to a balloon framed wooden wall structure.  I'm sure in a commercial application it would be done how you described.

 on: November 18, 2017, 10:11:46 PM 
Started by d5knapp - Last post by schoppy
I actually asked the factory about this issue. I was told 6" is about right. If you look at the angles that support the side panels they have slots cut in the bottom of them. These slots are to allow combustion air to flow out and into the primary combustion chamber along with the holes in the side panels. If the coal bed gets much above these support rails the combustion air can be blocked.

You also want to check these openings when doing cleaning during and after the heating season. Creosote can accumulate in this channel and potentially block these openings. You have to remove the side panels to do a good job of cleaning them. 

 on: November 18, 2017, 09:35:43 PM 
Started by MScott - Last post by MScott
To sum it up- A chainsaw exploded on a 68 year old man while he was using it. He suffered "85% full thickness burns" and died.


 on: November 18, 2017, 09:16:12 PM 
Started by wreckit87 - Last post by wreckit87
Just realized that I never commented on your interest in an ICF home.  I've done 6 ICF basements (3 for myself) and have nothing but good things to say.  I've wanted to do a entire house out of them but ambition level is dropping as I get older but I would encourage anyone to do so.  The things are well insulated and virtually bulletproof.  Construction techniques vary a bit and that's why I think people are hesitant but if you're will to research the process I think you'll find it fairly easy.  Start out level and straight, then its just like putting Lego's together.  Good luck.

Thanks! Any recommendations on tying the second floor slab into the sidewall? I've seen some use the L blocks on the top course and lay insuldeck or something across after the wall is poured, then pour the slab, then start stacking blocks on top again, and others that build the wall all the way to the roof first and anchor beams into the wall after it's cured and support the slab off of them. Never seen it done in person nor talked to anyone who's done it.

 on: November 18, 2017, 09:03:59 PM 
Started by wormmister - Last post by wreckit87
I did see a suspended system in a customer's house last fall that he installed himself but hired me to connect everything and pipe everything in the mechanical room. I initially didn't put a mixing valve in because I was certain he'd need 180 to bust through his 7/8" subfloor and pad/carpet on top in the living room, hardwood in the kitchen. That turned out to be a mistake, as the kitchen floor was literally impossible to stand on and the carpet was even uncomfortable. Piped in a mixer afterwards and the last I heard from him he was running 135 through it. This was a 4 story house so it was a closed system. Live and learn I guess

 on: November 18, 2017, 07:35:58 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by MattyNH
You can buy those chain rivet spinner tool on Amazon as well..

 on: November 18, 2017, 07:04:42 PM 
Started by d5knapp - Last post by d5knapp
how deep of a coal bed have you found to be optimal on a G Series?

 on: November 18, 2017, 06:11:32 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by E Yoder
Sorry , my bad. I didn't think.

 on: November 18, 2017, 04:53:03 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by Bluegrass Wood Burner
Guess I'm to blame for that. My last message I talked about using the stihl oil and then I talked about how my bar was gummed up. Guess the two go together in that respect. That lets me know the other post on here that said he uses the cheap stuff and has been for 30 years without any problems is giving me options on my bar oil.

 on: November 18, 2017, 03:14:36 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by Roscoe
Roscoe do you feel the cheap bar oil flows better in cold temps? Is that why the switch up? I use the stihl oil blue and red. One in winter the other in the summer. I been working on the big saw this morning and found the hole in the bar that lets oil get to the chain was stopped up with something. Never did figure out what it was and it wasn't easy to get cleaned out. Finally blew out with air compressor after soaking in penetrating oil for a while and using small nails and wires to poke at it. Oiling perfect now.

Yeah you are correct Bluegrass. Primarily for start up in cold weather. After the power head gets hot you can run the good stuff

I've got a stihl 390 that's not oiling. Blew it out with air. The plastic screw that runs the oiler looks OK... I'm stumped.

Is this a thread about oil choices or saw repair???????

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10