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 1 
 on: September 25, 2017, 02:22:21 PM 
Started by RSI - Last post by E Yoder
Good info.

 2 
 on: September 25, 2017, 05:41:16 AM 
Started by RSI - Last post by mlappin
From my experience with mine, 120 degrees does melt snow faster, especially if you donít have any sensors to detects snow fall like mine, I just have a electro mechanical timer on the kitchen wall by the back door. Believe itís a 6 hour timer.  If I wake up in the morning to quit a bit of snow Iíll turn the knob an exact number of turns to crank the temp up to around 110-120. If your on the ball and start it as the snow starts to fall 80 is plenty, if its a light fluffy snow 60 will work, ay 60 a wet heavy snow will cool the cement off enough between runs to where it doesnít melt, in that case 80-100 degrees works better. On something like snow melt going a little overboard on insulation isnít a horrible ideal.

i run primary/secondary loops in my basement, snow melt is dead last and it will pull very hard on start up especially if itís been very cold for several days, the glycol will be the temp of the cement when first starting, if its been zero for awhile, the glycol will come in at zero. I also am using a Taco ΔT pump for the house loop as well.

 3 
 on: September 25, 2017, 05:27:25 AM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by E Yoder
From my experience Heatmaster is the same reputable company they've always been. We've worked through good times and tough times and they've always stood with us.

 Both the MF and G units are very easy to use . You won't be disappointed with either.

 4 
 on: September 25, 2017, 05:21:32 AM 
Started by RSI - Last post by E Yoder
I was under the impression snowmelt should run with water under 100℉ to minimize heat loss into the ground, but I imagine warmer would be fine for occasional ice melting. I don't see why you're idea wouldn't work too, RSI.
Didn't mean to derail your thread.

 5 
 on: September 24, 2017, 08:19:35 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by mlappin
Regardless of which brand you choose, youíll be much happier heating with wood once the fire is outside where it belongs. House will stay much cleaner not to mention your humidity levels in the house will be easier to keep up in the winter.

 6 
 on: September 24, 2017, 06:14:57 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by hondaracer2oo4
If you don't mind what is your price range? I thought the gs series would be awful close to the same price tag as a mf7000

 7 
 on: September 24, 2017, 05:04:10 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by jemmunro
Thank you all for your input.  The gassers are out of my price range (the joy of living in Canada  :bash:).  This is such a learning experience for me, but I am determined to make it work, cause I like a warm house in the winter!

 8 
 on: September 24, 2017, 04:59:42 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by jemmunro
The rounded chamber is there for strength reasons. I run my C375 year round. There will be enough ash and coals still left on the sides and in the flat spots in front and back to keep you lit. You got the right idea, too clean a stove will let the fire go out quicker and too much ash will restrict air flow (draft). you'll soon learn the sweet spot.

Thanks for the information and also for your vote of confidence, Shepherdboy. 

 9 
 on: September 24, 2017, 02:49:03 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by shepherd boy
 If you're using nothing but dry seasoned wood I think you;ll love a gasser. But I only have experience with Heatmaster's G series.

 10 
 on: September 24, 2017, 02:43:49 PM 
Started by jemmunro - Last post by shepherd boy
 The rounded chamber is there for strength reasons. I run my C375 year round. There will be enough ash and coals still left on the sides and in the flat spots in front and back to keep you lit. You got the right idea, too clean a stove will let the fire go out quicker and too much ash will restrict air flow (draft). you'll soon learn the sweet spot.

 

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