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Author Topic: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type  (Read 16344 times)

slimjim

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #30 on: December 10, 2015, 03:52:42 PM »

I'm going to build a new one for the new stove so you can keep that one, enjoy!
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mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #31 on: December 10, 2015, 05:44:28 PM »

Ill be interested to see how your air wash works out for you, it will be a pain to try and clean that glass if it fogs often. Richard Modified my door so that people at the shows could see the secondary.

Been in for three weeks and no need to clean it yet.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #32 on: December 10, 2015, 07:21:51 PM »

Slim, that's great news to me!! Thank you!!!
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slimjim

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #33 on: December 11, 2015, 04:22:56 AM »

You are very welcome, enjoy. Are you up and running 100 %
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #34 on: December 11, 2015, 04:30:16 AM »

Yes, boiler has been running flawless. Cleaned the ashes out of the secondary twice and once out of the  primary. Oil boiler tied into the system also works flawless with seamless switch over to oil if te boiler goes out. I have been through a little over two cords at this point.
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slimjim

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #35 on: December 11, 2015, 05:01:55 AM »

Any idea how much heat loss you have underground?
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #36 on: December 11, 2015, 08:34:08 AM »

Yes the gauges are a great help. Gauges show around 1 degree from exit to entrance with the house not calling and the water heater charged up. Last night it only got down to around 40 degrees and my house thermostat kicks down to 66 at night from 70 during the day. I don't think the boiler did a burn cycle other than the purge cycles. I will typically put 4-7 split pieces in depending on the temp for the night and the anticipated number of hours untill the next load. It seems that I have to run a minimum of 4 pieces unless it is going to be 60 degrees I which I just shut the boiler off. The 4 pieces end up bassicly turning to charcoal/extremely dry from sitting in the heat and laying on the coal bed all day. I am putting togeather a ubnt wifi system so that i can monitor boiler temp and fan cycling as well as in house forced hot air fan cycling and primary loop temps.
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mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #37 on: December 11, 2015, 08:58:46 AM »

Yes the gauges are a great help. Gauges show around 1 degree from exit to entrance with the house not calling and the water heater charged up. Last night it only got down to around 40 degrees and my house thermostat kicks down to 66 at night from 70 during the day. I don't think the boiler did a burn cycle other than the purge cycles. I will typically put 4-7 split pieces in depending on the temp for the night and the anticipated number of hours untill the next load. It seems that I have to run a minimum of 4 pieces unless it is going to be 60 degrees I which I just shut the boiler off. The 4 pieces end up bassicly turning to charcoal/extremely dry from sitting in the heat and laying on the coal bed all day. I am putting togeather a ubnt wifi system so that i can monitor boiler temp and fan cycling as well as in house forced hot air fan cycling and primary loop temps.

 :post:
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #38 on: December 11, 2015, 04:07:16 PM »

Was power washing equipment this afternoon (its just that nice out) and came up with a minor brainstorm on how to make a new view port that will cut the air off when the draft fan shuts off. No extra solenoids or controls, just a bit of clever machine work. Will only work with an induced draft though and not a forced draft.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #39 on: December 11, 2015, 05:21:29 PM »

Do tell
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mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #40 on: December 12, 2015, 07:42:01 AM »

I’ve noticed the induced draft is strong enough to pull the loading door shut if you just have it cracked. I have some borosilicate glass (pyrex) that would be tougher than regulate glass, when the draft fan is running I’d think there’d be enough vacuum to pull a piece of glass away from the cover of the view port I already have as I’ve seen it actually pull water in from the bottom when it was raining, use 3-4 small springs around the circumference to push the glass out again to shut the air off.

Might work, might not, I have more stainless and carbide tooling for both the lathe and bridgeport so I’m only out the time to try it.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
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Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #41 on: December 12, 2015, 04:02:19 PM »

Well nuts, appears I only have lighter gauge left and none of the quarter inch stainless.

Guess I could make a prototype out of mild steel and see what happens even though corrosion will be an issue and cause problems.

I usually don’t build prototypes anyways, just do it right the first time instead :thumbup:
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #42 on: December 12, 2015, 09:25:28 PM »



I usually don’t build prototypes anyways, just do it right the first time instead :thumbup:

Yep, sure wish I had stainless the first time as the prototype seems to work just fine, need to head to the hardware store in the morning though and see if I can get some lighter springs but with more coils per inch. Machined in a total movement of 3/32” for the round piece of pyrex to move, when I turn on the 400 the glass does move but not the full amount. As a test I placed a hand full of ashes in the tube, on its own it does get most of them out eventually, if I just place the lightest pressure on the glass with a fingertip it opens the rest of the way and whats left of the ashes are gone in a matter of seconds as I machined in a swirl effect for the airflow. But the glass has to move the full amount to make the air follow the channels….

The real question will be if freezing up will be a problem or not come some frigid weather.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

mlappin

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #43 on: December 17, 2015, 07:59:23 PM »

May go back to the original one, when the stove is idling no air gets thru my new one, which is what I was after, but the glass is already looking cloudy from the gasses that accumulate in the stove while idling.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
Stihl 460
Sachs Dolmar 112 and 120
Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

ben

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Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« Reply #44 on: February 04, 2016, 11:53:31 AM »

Just a quick update!
I think I'm completely tuned in now (until the summer shutdown!) It's been running good. I've changed from a fan to a blower and rearranged my damper setup because of backfiring upon loading a big load of wood scraps on hot coals and the woodgas igniting and backfiring through my fan. I've added a one way blast flap on the intake tract. I clean the flues about every 3 weeks or a month it seems.

These are my temps in the to top the firebox now:


I took a video, you can see the flames curling around in the top by the baffle plates. It pretty much always has the wispy flames dancing up there but with the door closed and only open a very tiny crack there is a flamethrower blasting upward from the air injection at the front of the firebox. That disappears when the door is opened wide.



hope that video works!

I will take some pictures next clean out.

In Liberty!
Ben
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