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Author Topic: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?  (Read 1392 times)

Roscoe

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Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?
« Reply #30 on: March 22, 2018, 11:13:01 PM »

Here's my shed I built to house the boiler.  16' x 24'  salt box style shed.

Open on 1 side, and closed the other 3.  I used 5/4 deck boards around the wood to create a corn crib effect, allowing air to circulate all the way around.  The 3rd bay is general outdoor storage.
Nice shed but around here with one open side it be blown full of snow and you would have to shovel it first  not to mention your wood be covered with snow

Where is "here"?
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greasemonkoid

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Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?
« Reply #31 on: April 14, 2018, 11:47:06 PM »

Approaching the final stages, just in time for summer. Looks like I'll be firing this up when most folks are shutting theirs down.


I noticed wasps were making their way in the boiler house, something had to be done. The foam spray makes a mess out of a clean building, but hopefully this will eliminate any surprises nesting in the ceiling.

Electrical work can be quite time consuming, but everything passed the smoke test.






Belly pan for insulating the underside of the water jacket.




Yanked every wire in the unit out and revised it to a more practical setup (not that there was much in there anyway).






I'm paranoid so I figured a couple of cheap manual reset thermo-switches would be good insurance.



Simple bracket that allows for slight contact pressure on the switches to the bulkhead




Now on to finish the basement wiring and main control console in the living room.
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E Yoder

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Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?
« Reply #32 on: April 16, 2018, 06:18:14 AM »

Looks great.
I like the "smoke test". When you let the smoke out it's a bad day.  :D

I see wires in the chimney, checking stack temps?
« Last Edit: April 16, 2018, 10:41:10 AM by E Yoder »
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greasemonkoid

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Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?
« Reply #33 on: April 16, 2018, 03:57:41 PM »

Thanks, it's been an interesting project.

I like to tinker with electronics.

 The two thermocouples in the stack - one feeds a PID controller running in manual mode, moreless a basic temp controller, it's purpose is to shut the combustion blower off and close the damper if flue temps are less than X degrees (probably 150-200*F?). The blower will not continue to run in the fire burns out. The other goes to a display in the living room so at a quick glance I can see what is going on. Also, should I want to tinker this controller can shut off the combustion blower if temps reach X degrees while leaving the damper open. Not sure if it will be of any benefit, but at the least, neat to see what's going on.

In the first pic, the PID controller and one-shot timer can be seen mounted in an enclosure. When it's time to reload push the black button, damper closes, blower shuts off, and the timer begins to count down from preset time. If needed, add more time by pushing button again, walk away when finished, it will turn itself back on.

Everything gets an override switch as we know how reliable electronics are.
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greasemonkoid

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Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?
« Reply #34 on: April 28, 2018, 08:26:37 AM »

Finished the control console. Looking back I wish I would have gotten one large metal box from somewhere,but they are not cheap. There's a lot of wires crammed into that box. The box on the right is are the DHW controls. Everything works as it should. If the boiler water temp drops below X temp the bell rings, it is on a cycling timer to ring a few seconds and pause for several minutes in case no one is home. If return temps on the primary loop drop below X temp, a buzzer activates, if it continues to drop further the secondary pump shuts off. For DHW only operation just flip a switch and the secondary pump only operates when the DHW pump runs, the controllers have a setting to prevent short cycling.

The PI controller (top right unit) outputs a 0-10V signal to the motor drive, that signal is proportional to measured room temp and rate of change. The motor drive converts that signal to frequency - or motor rpm, 10V being 100% of max rpm.

So after a runup test it looks like it will do a good job cruising at a quiet, low rpm and adjust automatically without sounding like a hurricane unless a door is left open. Hopefully the air temps won't be too high at low rpm, we'll see what happens.

Now on to plumbing...



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