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Author Topic: piping  (Read 2981 times)

montanye

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piping
« on: August 22, 2017, 11:54:03 PM »

We are installing a Heatmaster mf 10000e the boiler is about 120 feet from the house and the water lines are 1 1/2" coming out of the boiler.  Can we run the 3 wrap 1" pex to the house, the heat exchanger is also 1"?  We are in Oak Grove Minnesota since all the internal connections are 1" for the water heater side bar and the heat exchanger I did not know if we needed the 1 1/2" runs to the house.

thanks
Harry
« Last Edit: August 29, 2017, 09:51:50 AM by montanye »
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mlappin

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Re: piping
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2017, 10:39:17 AM »

Depends on what you plan on doing in the house later if anything. Originally I ran 1” pex to the house, between actually heating the house, domestic hot water and the snow melt the temperature differential (delta t) was huge. Regardless of water temp, it takes flow to get real high BTU’s out. If you never plan on doing more than heating your domestic hot water and heating the house then 1” pex should be fine. Remember also, the pex sold in North America as one inch is actually more like 7/8” ID, they can sell it as one inch as the OD is the same as one inch copper pipe.

Would also help to know the size of the house, a big enough HX in the furnace and heating your house water could pull it down pretty far as well. This isn’t as critical on a stainless boiler compared to a mild steel one, but should still be avoided if possible.
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slimjim

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Re: piping
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2017, 01:58:55 PM »

Just curious Marty, why would the temp differential be more concerning on a steel boiler verses a stainless boiler?
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E Yoder

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Re: piping
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2017, 02:02:00 PM »

We are installing a Heatmaster mf 10000e the boiler is about 120 feet from the house and the water lines are 1 1/2" coming out of the boiler.  Can we run the 3 wrap 1" pex to the house, the heat exchanger is also 1"?

thanks
Harry
A few more details about what you're tieing into would help determine what flow rate you'll need. Most forced air residential sized systems can run on 1" Pex, sometimes with low return water temp. But you'll want to do the domestic water first, then the house heat. That's assuming you have forced air, a boiler very well might need more flow. As mlappin said, more details.
An MF unit disperses the return water out to where it normally doesn't cause condensation issues.
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mlappin

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Re: piping
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2017, 04:46:03 PM »

Just curious Marty, why would the temp differential be more concerning on a steel boiler verses a stainless boiler?




Actually,


A cold spot could cause condensation which can lead to rust with mild steel, whence why some companies insist on or highly suggest a thermostatic valve of some kind, CB comes to mind, condensation doesn’t cause 409 to rust unless it’s mixed with ash or exposed to some other form of acid or oxidizer. 409 flex pipe on one of our straight trucks has been exposed to salt every winter for over ten years and they’ve not started to corrode yet, but a boiler is a different environment than the straight truck lives in.

No small part of perfecting my welding skills over the last 30 years was from replacing one rotted out piece of mild steel or another around the farm, the stainless patches I’ve been using when possible will outlast me more than likely.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2017, 05:08:03 PM by mlappin »
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RSI

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Re: piping
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2017, 04:53:34 PM »

As long as it is not a huge house, 1" will work fine. You may need a larger pump depending on heat load.

I would spend the extra and at least get 5 wrap. It isn't enough more to be worth getting the 3.
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Re: piping
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2017, 05:18:21 PM »

Good follow through RSI, Thanks for keeping us on track! I m sorry Marty did you miss the thread, I believe it was one regarding hosing down the inside of a boiler,( I probably shouldn't mention names ) but it did happen to be advertised as 409 stainless and was in my opinion quite rusty after only 2 years sitting in my yard,It had never been fired, I could probably find those old pics for you if you would like, perhaps even P M them?
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mlappin

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Re: piping
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2017, 06:04:37 PM »

« Last Edit: August 23, 2017, 06:09:20 PM by mlappin »
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Smokeless

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Re: piping
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2017, 07:27:26 PM »

Welcome montanye
  Please include your location. On profile.
   Your boiler will heat 10,000sq feet of house 500,000BTU/hr.  it must be very large house. The 1" pex will move about 80,000 btu efficiently. You can definitely increase flow with more pressure. But it will cost you more in energy.
    Go with the logstore which will flow 110,000BTU ,the electricity and wood you save will pay for the pipe many times. 1deg heat loss for 100'.
    Or step up to 1 1/4. Logstor.
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mlappin

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Re: piping
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2017, 09:37:57 PM »

Actually, when I did my shop, it was cheaper to install 1 1/4” pex and use smaller pumps than use 1” pex and larger pumps. That was just the install, of course over the long run the smaller pumps use less electricity which equates to cheaper in the long run.
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HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana