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Topics - hrc200x

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1
Electronics / smoke coming from Grundfos UP 26-99F pump
« on: November 04, 2018, 02:33:24 PM »
Am starting up the boiler for the winter and there was smoke coming from the circulation pump on the back of the boiler. Appears like its the area where the capacitor thing plugs in. Is just this part of the pump available or did something in the pump its self go bad and cause this? Play it safe and replace whole pump?

2
Had a new well drilled, right after it was all hooked up and when the new well water got into the water heater there is always air built up that has to purge from the faucets every time I use the hot water. I live alone so the demand for hot water isn't much, dishes and shower. Called the well driller and he figured its because of the different makeup the new water has and its interacting with the water heater or the anode rod. I tried calling Sears tech help, after talking with two hard to understand customer service representatives and getting disconnected when they were trying to forward my call to the water heater tech help I gave up with calling. The owners manual says to get anode rod part number 9001453 if your water smells like rotten eggs, which mine does not, sears, amazon, and walmart all have that anode rod. It also mentions air in the hot water faucets from hydrogen gas but says thats typically after the system sits unused for a couple weeks, mine happens after a day. The parts diagram shows the anode rod and calls it the primary rod, will there be a separate hole this replacement rod will go in, or do I pull out the old one and put the new in this ones hole? I don't see any other openings or fittings ontop of the heater, there are 3 clear plugs equally spaced around the edge of the heater but they appear to be where spray foam was installed through. If I do buy the replacement rod am guessing will have clearance issues to the ceiling, hoping I can cut down the rod if need be?

Water heater does have a side arm heater on it being heated by a outside wood boiler, with my low usage of hot water am guessing water temps are up to 150 in the water heater, but it worked fine with the old well and this same water heater.

3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / infloor heat questions
« on: February 14, 2017, 08:40:56 PM »
Is infloor heat in a garage more efficient than other heating options? Thinking of building a work shop for automotive type work and wondering if my boiler could keep up, currently its heating a older house that I plan to insulate better located in northern minnesota. What temp water should be run through the slab? Heat is coming from below so maybe the thermostat could be kept around 55? Seems like we don't get -30 degrees anymore. The past couple years, on the coldest nights it has a good amount of coals left over come morning, using birch that was almost at the end of its life span.

4
Am in the early planning stages of using a out of service indoor forced air wood stove to heat a detached garage. The furnace is already taken out of the house and in storage in a shed. I was thinking of making a metal pallet for the stove to sit on, making a full enclosure or just a roof over it to keep blowing snow and rain off it and running the air duct through one of the windows in the garage. This whole setup would only be in place for the winter. Come spring, detach the air duct, take down the chimney and disconnect the wires, put the forks on the tractor and wheel the stove away for storage.

It would only be fired up on weekends when working in the garage.

Could possibly be powered with a extension cord which would make shutdown after weekend use and come spring easy.

Would the heat duct need to be insulated, or would the air be moving through there fast enough? If I recall the duct on the top of the stove is probably 20-24" diameter.

Is there going to be condensation issues?

The stove should be way oversized for the area its heating, it went from heating a 1200 sq ft. house with basement to a insulated area 24x28.

Anything else that may be problematic?

5
Woke up this morning to it 55 degrees in the house, its not cold enough during the day to be running the OWB so am using the fuel oil boiler. Home has 3 thermostats with 3 zone valves and only one circulating pump which turns on when any one of the 3 zones call for heat. 2 of the 3 stats are turned off and the one thats on controls the bedroom and office. At first thought that a thermostat went bad, but if the bedroom thermostat is off, turn it on and quickly run into the boil room, I can see the zone valve opening. From what I gather is that the opened zone valve isn't sending power to the aquastat relay on the front of the oil boiler which controls the turning on of the burner and circ. pump. If the living room thermostat is turned its zone valve opens, turns on the pump and oil burner with no issues. Seems like it would be something in the zone valve correct? The valve is probably from the early 1990s, mine and this one have the same number on them: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-V8043F1036-3-4-Sweat-Zone-Valve-Connection-Terminal-Block-6362000-p Also attached are pictures of the one that isn't working.


6
When I put wood in the boiler an occasional piece will slide on the other logs and hit the back of the boiler, and other times they will stop dead and I'll have to use my hand, foot, or ash rake to push the log in. Has anyone ever seen any damage to a boiler thats had wood thrown in it? I'm assuming it would take many years of doing this before it was a issue. It probably helps that there is water behind the steel to help absorb the blow.

7
I need a new water heater just three months after hooking up the side arm on the current water heater. I see alot of them have plastic drain valves. Is this plastic threaded into the metal tank and all I would need to do is remove it and thread in a nipple with a T?

Do propane units tend to be taller than electric ones? My side arm is 48" long, for ease of install it would be nice if that was the distance between the pop off and drain, but the total height of 40 gallon "tall" electric ones seem to be shorter than that.

My current one is a propane and I'm leaning towards switching to electric.

8
When I was getting the OWB with side arm on the water heater up and running this fall (fresh install) I was circulating the water through it before a fire was going, to check for leeks, during this time the water heater was still being heated with propane. I noticed that within probably 5 mintues of turning on the OWB circulating pump the propane would turn on for the water heater. It was probably working the opposite way as its designed, it sucked the heat out of water in the water heater. The dealer for the OWB said to let the circulating pump run all summer long, there won't be a fire going in the summer, so if i do this it will suck all the heat out of the water heater. Should a bypass loop before the side arm with valves be installed so it won't circulate through the side arm, or will shut offs on the domestic side of the side arm stop the thermo siphon action? I'd guess the second way there would still be heat loss through the steel of the valves though.

I know summer is a long way off, but I believe the water heater sprung a leek, if i was going to add shut off valves now would be the time to do it.

9
Got my first electric bill since I installed and fired up the boiler. Not complaining by any means but seems that adding the boiler increased it by $14 for one month. Was thinking and hoping that since the burner and fuel oil pump on the fuel oil boiler wouldn't be running the circulation pump and fan on the OWB would cancel eachother out, but guess thats not the case. The zone valves and pumps are probably working a bit more on the indoor side of things seeing as the water temp runs 20 degrees cooler than it would running on fuel oil. Water heater is propane and even the pilot light has been turned off for over a month so no gas usage there.

10
Plumbing / tricks to getting nipples removed
« on: September 13, 2014, 09:53:50 PM »
Are there any tricks out there to getting nipples removed? Seems every time I try, it either crushes them or damages the threads on the close ones.

Since we're on the subject, when calling the local plumbing store and a lady answers don't ask her, "what size your close nipples".

11
Here is a test fit of how I installed everything.  Does anyone see any problems? If not I'll paste it all up and tighten stuff down.

A couple questions are, the grundofos pump came with O rings with square edges, and the webstone ball valve kit came with flat gaskets, are both of these needed or just one? If only one which is preferred?

I took a 14/3 gauge wire (3 wires total, one is a ground) off a 15 gallon air compressor hoping to use it to wire the pump, it already has the wall outlet plug in on it which is why I went that route plus the compressor burned up. the actual copper wire in it is the stranded wire, not solid like wiring in a house, will this be an issue?





12
I'm prepping for my install by doing some figuring and homework early so can order fittings and pipe, etc. I have an existing fuel oil boiler which is going to stay, got a 5x12 80 plate exchanger to hook into it. My original though was to make a short loop through the plate exchanger and through the pop off valve and drain valve on the oil boiler with a pump that would keep the fuel oil boiler up to temp. This pump and the pump at the OWB would run 24/7. The zone circulator pump will only kick on when a zone calls for heat, complete system would have 3 pumps.

Now I'm thinking of running my fuel oil boiler return line through the heat exchanger before it gets to the fuel oil boiler. This way would reduce the amount of pipe needed, very nice since the area is already cramped, simplify install, one less pump in the system. Will the plate exchanger transfer enough heat from the OWB side to the indoor side when the zone pump comes on? One thing I'm thinking of is I may need a different aquastat relay on the indoor boiler with a little lower cut in value which would keep the fuel oil from coming on until water temp is lower than normal, 140-150?

Is there a way to tell how much heat will transfer in the water exchanger? If the water temp from OWB is coming in at 180, what temp is going out on the indoor boiler side?

13
I've been researching OWB for the past 8 months and hope to be installing one this summer. I'm wanting to do most if not all the the work my self, I've never soldered copper pipe and I think I want to use copper in my current furnace room to tie into the existing fuel oil boiler because it seems cleaner looking, and it will match the rest of the plumbing in that room. I will practice soldering on some scrap pipe first. The pipe from boiler to side arm heater and all crawl space plumbing will be PEX.

First question, I see some pipes that connect using solder are rough looking copper and some brass, are all these interchangeable or will different materials touching each other expand at different rates and cause leaking??

Unions on a side arm heater, good or bad idea? Use copper union or brass? Only have them on the domestic side so they can be easily detached when its time to change the water heater?

Hot supply pipe from OWB go to the top or bottom of the side arm heater for the water heater?

Since my system will be both copper and PEX is 1" a safe diameter to use for each? For instance 1" pex from boiler to side arm and back out, then where it comes into the furance room it will go to 1" copper. Or does one need to be 1 1/4" so they flow equally?

I'm going with a heatmor 200 not the gasser and from what I understand these run at a low pressure maybe 6 psi. My current fuel oil boiler has a auto fill water line from the well plumbed to it, can this be "T'ed" into and fill the OWB from inside the house, or will the 40 psi from the house cause a problem to the 6 psi system?

Currently my fuel oil boiler has just one circulating pump that kicks on when a zone calls for heat. I'm planning on adding another pump on a short loop that circulates the indoor boiler water over the water to water heat exchanger, this pump and the pump out at the OWB will run 24/7. 3 pumps total, 2 running around the clock. Is there going to be any issues when the short loop circ pump and the zone pump are both running? Am wanting to use the oil boiler drain valve and the pop off valve as the in and out for the short circ loop in 3/4" copper. Also pertaining to this is where to get power for the small loop pump. Attached is a picture of the current setup, Is there anyway to tell from the pic if I can rob power from the switch on the boiler to power the new pump.

There will probably be some pipe thread fittings, is the teflon thread tape ok to use or get the liquid version of the stuff?

Thanks in advance

14
Sorry not a OWB question but its going to be a problem if I can't get heat back on. Woke up this morning to hear the normal roar from the flame in the boiler running intermittently, finally it must have timed out and the reset button on the intermittent ignition oil primary tripped. I pushed to reset it, boiler started and ran fine for maybe 3 mintues and started missing and cutting out like it did before. Temp is 10 degrees F, but this is warm compared to our last 5 days where high temps have been single digits and lows to -15. Wondering if I have gelled fuel or a plugged filter, but would that make the reset button pop?

I'm on this site hoping to get a OWB next year.

15
Hope to install a OWB next spring. Here is the general layout of the house. The whole house has a crawl space except the boiler/furnace room off the north end of house which is on a slab.

Lines from the OWB will be 1" pex in Insul-seal pipe. Do you suggest running the pex all the way to the water heater in the crawl space or should I convert over to 1" copper a foot or two inside the block wall. The water heater is on the main living floor so I will need to come through the floor probably in the corner by it. Are unions a good idea on the 1" line for future water heater replacment, if so brass or copper unions?

Anyone familiar with the push style connectors for pex that menards carries? http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/fittings/quick-connect-fittings/1-cts-quick-connect-female-adapter/p-1713741-c-12709.htm If I go with copper down the length of the hallway I'm going to need two of these types of fittings to connect the two lines from the OWB.

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