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Messages - hrc200x

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
Electronics / Re: smoke coming from Grundfos UP 26-99F pump
« on: November 04, 2018, 03:15:59 PM »
Looks like they  make a terminal or thermal (called both on supplyhouse) strip kit, but don't see if for my specific pump when searching by part number on pump. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-595424-Terminal-Strip-Kit-for-UP-Pumps

2
Electronics / Re: smoke coming from Grundfos UP 26-99F pump
« on: November 04, 2018, 02:46:58 PM »
Am picking one up tomorrow, dealer is 2 hours away. Hope someone will know if just the part that looks melted in the pictures is replaceable and what was wrong or if something in the motor of the pump cause it to melt where it did.

3
Electronics / smoke coming from Grundfos UP 26-99F pump
« on: November 04, 2018, 02:33:24 PM »
Am starting up the boiler for the winter and there was smoke coming from the circulation pump on the back of the boiler. Appears like its the area where the capacitor thing plugs in. Is just this part of the pump available or did something in the pump its self go bad and cause this? Play it safe and replace whole pump?

4
Update on this issue:

I pulled the anode rod out and the bare support wire was exposed at the top for maybe a inch. The well driller said the issue is probably different minerals in the new water. I replaced the old rod with part # 9003944005, which was the the replacement for the original ( old one was maybe 36" long, new one 16"), still same issue. Called well driller back, he said there should be a anode rode out there that is made of something different to help this, he had recalled someone having this issue in the past, they tried a different rod and didn't hear back from them so assumed it worked. I looked in the water heater owners manual and it says to order anode part # 9001453 if the water is smelly which it is not. Everything I read on 9001453 is that its aluminum/zinc. Sears, where I bought the water heater doesn't seem like they can help, I asked them to tell me every different anode rod available for this heater and they only came up with the original replacement part number, then I said what about 9001453 for smelly water, their reply was if it says that one should fit then it should, don't they have a list of all anodes available for their appliances.

Never has air built up on cold side. On the hot side there is more air the longer it has time to heat with out use.

Outdoor boiler is shut down for the season and this issue is still happening using electric.

5
Plumbing / Re: Side arm poor performance findings
« on: January 29, 2018, 12:22:38 PM »
When my side arm quits working I usually drain the water heater and flush it good, which ends up being every 6 months, and it starts working again. Wonder if draining yours twice a year would have helped? Am a little worried about my new well and what thats going to do to the pipes, but a post of that is just below yours. Is that first pipe copper?

6
I could probably close the valve that supplies the water heater and that would isolate it if it was draining back through the pump. Also if it was draining back it would loose pressure on the gauge right?

7
Doesn't act up with cold water. Water heater is 3 years old. I should be able to pull the rod and see how it looks this weekend. Seems like it needs time to build air up, like a 1/2 day or day, which makes me think its how the water is reacting with the anode.

8
Had a new well drilled, right after it was all hooked up and when the new well water got into the water heater there is always air built up that has to purge from the faucets every time I use the hot water. I live alone so the demand for hot water isn't much, dishes and shower. Called the well driller and he figured its because of the different makeup the new water has and its interacting with the water heater or the anode rod. I tried calling Sears tech help, after talking with two hard to understand customer service representatives and getting disconnected when they were trying to forward my call to the water heater tech help I gave up with calling. The owners manual says to get anode rod part number 9001453 if your water smells like rotten eggs, which mine does not, sears, amazon, and walmart all have that anode rod. It also mentions air in the hot water faucets from hydrogen gas but says thats typically after the system sits unused for a couple weeks, mine happens after a day. The parts diagram shows the anode rod and calls it the primary rod, will there be a separate hole this replacement rod will go in, or do I pull out the old one and put the new in this ones hole? I don't see any other openings or fittings ontop of the heater, there are 3 clear plugs equally spaced around the edge of the heater but they appear to be where spray foam was installed through. If I do buy the replacement rod am guessing will have clearance issues to the ceiling, hoping I can cut down the rod if need be?

Water heater does have a side arm heater on it being heated by a outside wood boiler, with my low usage of hot water am guessing water temps are up to 150 in the water heater, but it worked fine with the old well and this same water heater.

9
Heatmor / Re: Heatmor question
« on: February 22, 2017, 03:25:34 PM »
Believe my 4 year old 200 tag is on the inside of the main outer door. Back of the firebox to where the door closes is about 3 feet.

10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / infloor heat questions
« on: February 14, 2017, 08:40:56 PM »
Is infloor heat in a garage more efficient than other heating options? Thinking of building a work shop for automotive type work and wondering if my boiler could keep up, currently its heating a older house that I plan to insulate better located in northern minnesota. What temp water should be run through the slab? Heat is coming from below so maybe the thermostat could be kept around 55? Seems like we don't get -30 degrees anymore. The past couple years, on the coldest nights it has a good amount of coals left over come morning, using birch that was almost at the end of its life span.

11
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: January 14, 2017, 07:25:40 AM »
Whether or not the water heater is working is moot if the exchanger is set up, my water heater has both the gas turned off to it and is unplugged.

I like Willies idea, plumb a flat plate ahead of the water heater, use the water heater as a storage buffer tank, if the boiler should go out the water heater will kick in and take over.

And keep the side arm or take it out?

12
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: January 13, 2017, 01:31:37 PM »
Your saying he needs a bleeder just above the side arm on the domestic side? The top pipe looks level into the water heater, So as it is now if air is there wouldn't it just go into the tank, float to the top of the tank, then out the "hot" out to the faucets? I have a similar side arm set up, mine quit working end of last winter, I drained the water heater and it started working again, it must have been plugged. Like others I turn off the breaker to the water heater when the boiler is up and running, but I live alone and don't use much hot water, compared to what a family would.

From what I understand the side arm heater like you have isn't meant to heat up water instantly like a plate exchanger would. A plate exchanger would tap into the "hot" out to your faucets just above the water heater on 2 of the ports on the plate exchanger and the other two would be in/out for the boiler. As long as your boiler is up to temp and pump running you'd have infinite hot water at the faucets because the plate exchanger transfers the heat way quicker than a side arm heater does.

13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Just too warm still
« on: October 29, 2016, 07:45:12 AM »
Had the same problem on a heatmor 200 the first year I used it. Too warm during the day the stove wouldn't call for heat enough and the flapper door stuck open one time and stuck closed other times. I lowered the differential to 5 degrees rather than 15 seemed to help. It would cause the fan to come on more and keep the flapper moving more during the day to keep the creosote scraped off. This is my 3rd year on the stove and by this time the last 2 years I had already been using the stove for 2-3 weeks, now I'm using the fuel oil boiler in the house at least until temps get below freezing at night. I put the differential back up to 15 when winter gets here.

14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: What is your heat loss from OWB?
« on: February 21, 2016, 06:41:24 AM »
tweeker: You and I might have a very similar set up, I have a few year old heatmor 200 with insul-seal pipe and a 50 foot run, and maybe another 70 feet of pipe in the house. I don't have antifreeze though. The line from the boiler goes to a copper side arm first, then to a 80 plate heat exchanger. The indoor side of things are a fuel oil boiler with baseboard. I have gauges on the supply and return at the outdoor boiler and when nothing is calling for heat and I'm assuming the water heater is up to temp the gauges show very little, or no heat loss. When a zone calls for heat is when the heat exchange happens in the 80 plate (I don't have a wraparound pump that keeps the indoor boiler up to temp) and the supply/return will show a 6-10 degree difference. The temp gauge on the indoor boiler never gets above 160. The gauge on the front of the heatmor never gets above 170 even though the aquastat is set at 180.

Sometimes when you use a  laser heat gun on different metals the reading can be way off. shining mine on a aluminum chimney from a propane water heater, it showed 80 degrees, but there was no way you could hold your hand on it. I've heard of people putting masking tape over their copper pipe to get a more accurate reading.

The insulseal pipe can be a little cumbersome to fit together, did you get all the seams tight, glued, the foam caulked, and the plastic pulled over eachother?

Do you have a thermostatic mixing valve that is taking the hot water from the OWB and sending it right back out the return line before it even gets to the water to water, or the side arm?

Just tried shining the laser temp gun at a copper pipe and it showed 110 F. That was on a supply line out to the baseboard, the temp gauge on the front of the boiler is 155. Put a piece of blue masking tape on the line and the temp bounces around, but the hottest was 168, can't be possible as the water in the boiler is only 155.

15
Good tip on the cold air return, Will see how it works out on setting it up

Any tips on insulating the pipe?

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