Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Hunt4heat

Pages: [1]
1
Central Boiler / 90° brass fitting leaking?
« on: March 12, 2024, 03:51:13 AM »
Hi all, had a 1 in 90° breast fitting leaking connected to my supply PEX line. Cut it out and replaced it, my question is how do these systems prime as far as does the pump reprime the whole system after a certain amount of time running or do you have to force water back into the line with garden hose connected to ball valve fitting in basement? Only about a quart of water came out when I cut the line so it makes me think I should not have to refill but when I did that the opposite line (do you return line) would not fill with water but I'm also unsure of if it was because the thermostatic valve would not open because so much time passed that the water cooled off?

2
Central Boiler / Unplug taco pump in off season?
« on: March 12, 2024, 03:46:16 AM »
Hi, I know some people run their boiler year round. I do not and I'm wondering if what I've been doing is correct in the past? Usually once temperatures stay above freezing I unplug my taco pump (is it good for it to have a rest or possibly make it wear out quicker than just running year-round?)

3
Central Boiler / Fill/ flush/ switch to molly?
« on: March 11, 2024, 09:21:28 AM »
What is procedure to clear out old water/inhibitor mixture to start fresh with new molly inhibitor and clean water after running old inhibitor for 8 years in cb1450 e classic?( I'm assuming I need to drain at outdoor bottom left valve b/c it's the lowest point in system but how can I flush all old water/junk out?)

4
Plumbing / Drain/ moly/refill procedure?
« on: March 11, 2024, 05:11:30 AM »
Hi, been using the old rust inhibitor since 2016 outdoor wood burner installed. Developed a leak in the 90° fitting and had to replace it and now the only thing available is Molly. I would like to just drain the system and start fresh. Do I need to flush the system and how do I go about flushing and filling on a central boiler eclassic 1450?

5
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 02, 2021, 06:32:55 PM »
Only bad part is the controller/ screen that he let me use to test to see if it fixed it it's screened as bad, my original screen is still good. Can I put my good screen with the board that he gave me to make one complete good unit?

6
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 02, 2021, 02:24:58 PM »
Swapped controller screen out and everything works now! Thanks guys for your info, Matt

7
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 02, 2021, 08:40:34 AM »
My dealer will let me swap out my entire firestar 2 screen today to see if it fixes my problem ( just a large twist lock plug in to switch over to known good screen and fingers crossed!!!)
I'll post my findings later today or tomorrow...
Thanks Matt

8
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 02, 2021, 08:34:33 AM »
Ok, but your actual temp sensor was not bad correct?
Mine has continuity and 4 ohms( been electrician for 25 years)
Is my temperature sensor still good then?
Thanks Matt

9
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 01, 2021, 05:56:30 PM »
Matt
Go back 3 pages of messages to November 9, 2018 -  I had a similar experience with my 1450 after a lightning strike.  Both TC inputs, reaction and water, were fried.  Had to change out the








controller.  There's some good info in that thread about how your furnace operates in this case.
Blair
Thanks Smith BR, I sent you a PM question but it pretty much asks so all that was faulty was your controller screen and what is North Star?

10
Central Boiler / Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: October 31, 2021, 06:34:27 AM »
Hi all, everything shut down at the end of the season earlier this year as normal. Now I go to start up and beforehand I switched out to Molly armor. I go to fire it up yesterday and I get a high number one fault where all three lights are flashing on the side display. With some investigation I find out that it is showing that it's 800° water temperature as you can see in the screenshot. My question is where is the temperature sensor on this unit? I've tried tracing the wires going to the back by the blower box with no lock there? My next place is I'm going to remove the side metal where the damper handle is to see if I can find it in there? Is there a way to know whether it's the temperature sensor that's bad or is it possible the whole controller board is bad and sensing that the water temperature is boiling when I haven't even started a fire in it yet? Thanks Matt

11
Central Boiler / Re: Firestar xp screen?
« on: January 20, 2019, 01:28:59 PM »
Yes, thanks guys

12
Central Boiler / Firestar xp screen?
« on: January 18, 2019, 04:59:20 PM »
I'm looking to see if anyone out there knows how to decipher the reaction chamber colors on the screen of my phone, I know they correlate their colors too how it is burning because when it's burning really good you can tell it buy every cycle being red but when it's bad there's a lot of green shading in the background behind the red on each burn cycle

13
Central Boiler / E classic 1450 question
« on: December 05, 2018, 06:29:26 AM »
Hi all,
This is my second season using my central boiler 1450 and my question relates to the fire box clean out attached is a picture of the rear lower portion that has kind of a roof shape, that I'm wondering how to remove this to clean the build-up out of that area? It looks like the top portion is just fit into a channel but the bottom looks to be welded? This is where the are over fire originates from and is really difficult to clean without removing this portion, let me know what you guys have come up with in the past I have just been using a long spring that I push through and scrub it out the best I can thanks Matt

Pages: [1]