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Author Topic: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165  (Read 11121 times)

abide

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fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« on: October 28, 2013, 06:22:35 PM »

I just got done installing a 75 cfm blower on my 165 replacing the stock 50 cfm.  I did this for two reasons.  The stock 50 cfm bearings were sounding bad and I installed altheatingsupply.com damper kit which supposedly only works with the 75 cfm blower.  After installation I loaded up the firebox and about 10 minutes later I had a blowtorch coming out the chimney.  I watched the chimney looking like a roman candle for about 10 minutes until I blocked off about 2/3 of the fan opening with duct tape.  It wasn't creosote burning just wood.  I measured the stack temp at 450.  Has anyone else experienced this with the fan upgrade?  If so what did you do?  Leaving it as it was is not going to happen.  Too many embers were going up in the air too close to my wood framed summer kitchen.   
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doow14

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2013, 05:20:30 AM »

Did you add more pipe to the chimney or just use the short one that came with the stove? I have a 3 ft stainless added to mine.My stove will do that once in a while if its really loaded and just smolderin and gets that rush of air from me opening the door it will catch fire for ten minutes or so then go out.In my case though I'm pretty sure its creosote burning off. I have the stock blower with the damper mod.I'm with you on those hot embers flying out that is cause for concern. Do you have a cap on it? mines wide open.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2013, 05:27:58 AM by doow14 »
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beeman

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2013, 09:12:10 PM »

do you have a chaine or rod to adjust the flaper on the blower if so ajust it down to only open 1/2 inch you have to play with it to get it right i have a 10 foot stack but if the flaper is open to far it will torch
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slimjim

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2013, 05:03:21 AM »

WOW what a waste of good heat, and a real safety hazard!
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abide

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2013, 06:03:33 PM »

With the fan opening duct taped 2/3 it seems to be working well.  I did notice a small flame coming out last night right after I loaded it.  Overall the damper mod seems to be improving the efficiency.  I don't have a chimney extension, just the standard 3' or so.  Wow...torching out of a 10 ' chimney!  I still see some embers coming out and am thinking of welding up some sort of spark arrestor.
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swede

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2013, 07:28:27 AM »

Not sold on the need for the flapper or larger fan.  We're running the 50cfm fan on 1/4 opening and its plenty of air.  Any more than that just blows heat out of the chimney.  No issues during fan shut down either.....
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the smoke don't mean its broke

abide

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2013, 06:23:15 AM »

To be honest I don't think I needed the upgraded blower.  With it taped 2/3 of the opening it is not pushing out more than 50 cfm anyhow.  I think the flapper would have worked on the stock blower without much of a problem.  The flapper however, was a great purchase.  It is night and day when looking at the smoke output when there is no call for heat.  Most of the time all I see is occasional wafts of steam coming out and nothing else.  Tomorrow the cold returns and I should get a better idea of the efficiency improvement. 
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Steinacher Sales

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2013, 11:21:20 PM »

Abide and Swede, I think your right in that you do not need the auto damper if your happy with it the way it is. If you want your wood to last longer though and be more efficient I would say it is important. Plus with leaving the teardrop open 1/4" it allows air all the time whether the fan is running or not and your temp. could raise higher then you realize or want it to. This damper closes completely the fire smolders until it calls for heat.

It is easier to use the 75 cfm it is predrilled for the damper plate for either Alternative or Weld Rite. You can use the 50 cfm but extra care has to be taken when drilling the holes for the flapper. If your not careful a screw can hit the fan!

If you have the fire coming out the stack as you said duck taping is a good fix. You can get a chimney cap from Weld Rite to help knock the embers down also. Flue extension and extension adapter will help also, these items can be purchased at Weld Rite as well!

All new furnaces come with auto dampers and a chimney cap now! :thumbup:

Greg Steinacher Shaver Dealer
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 11:24:11 PM by Steinacher Sales »
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fooled again

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2013, 11:02:32 PM »

Just ordered the upgrade kit from Alternative, should arrive this coming Monday, trouble is we are in the teens here in Mo. Will probably wait till the weather improves. What am I going to need to purchase as far as fittings etc. to make the upgrade complete. I was told I need to T off from the house supply to install the dry well, that sounds like a few fittings, what else? I have the blower, flapper, digital read out, dry well, and what ever else comes with the package.
Also I want to put a class A chimney in place to cut down on the build up, can I buy one that slides down over the existing chimney? What/how should I seal it off with? I have the 165 pro series, bought in Nov. of 2011
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2013, 09:02:19 AM »

You should have an unused well already on the back of the boiler unless you are pumping two zones from the boiler. Take a look. In that case you won't need any extra fittings I believe.
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fooled again

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2013, 10:01:27 AM »

You should have an unused well already on the back of the boiler unless you are pumping two zones from the boiler. Take a look. In that case you won't need any extra fittings I believe.
I am often accused of having a loose grasp of the painfully obvious, but I don't think I have a dry well of any type, I am only using one zone, there is of course the outlet for the other zone. I don't know what a dry well looks like, haven't got the order yet. Man on the phone said I would have to "put in a T".
Another question; I am beginning my 3rd year of use with this 165, put in the 5 gal of expensive rust block that Shaver sold me. I was told my Altheatsuppy that I would need to drain my tank to make the upgrades of the blower, damper, dry well etc.; and that I SHOULD DEFINITELY drain out the rust block because it is CORROSIVE, and replace it with their Protech 300. After reading all the posts about Shaver and problems, I don't know who to believe and who to trust nor what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #11 on: December 07, 2013, 02:21:46 PM »

A 'drywell' is simply a well into the boiler that is dry but comes up to the temperature of the water. So I believe the kit comes with a drywell for the aquastat sensor. All you do is take the cap off of the other bung where you would put another pump on the back of the boiler and screw the drywell into this. You only need to lower the water level to a level below where that drywell is going to go so that you can take the cap off and screw it in.
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fooled again

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2013, 04:50:51 PM »

Thanks, that makes sense. Should I flush the tank? As I said, I am beginning my third season. Do you know if the rust block that shaver sold, "attacks" the metal, as I have been told?
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #13 on: December 07, 2013, 05:31:21 PM »

Scott should be able to chime in about the water chemistry.
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Wood Nutt

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Re: fan upgrade and damper on shaver 165
« Reply #14 on: December 07, 2013, 09:50:54 PM »

If you don't want to drain ANY boiler water, somewhere on this site is a description of a drywell made out of copper pipe and fittings that drops in from the top.  You just need to drill a hole in the top of the water chamber and drop it in place.  the temp sensor then drops down inside the copper pipe.  There should be plenty of wire on the sensor, I had to coil a bunch of mine up when I installed it.

My Shaver manual talks about using boiler water treatment by Wood Boiler Solutions LLC (WBS).  I keep reading about the expensive stuff Shaver pushed, but I never did get that pushed on me when I bought my Shaver.  WBS has not only the treatment solution, but they have chemicals that you can also flush, clean and passivate your system.  They have always been very helpful to me.  When I cleaned my stove, I did not want to circulate all of that stuff thru my lines and heat exchangers, so I just ran a short pipe between my inlet and outlet on the back of the stove, fired up the stove and added the chemicals and circulated it according to the instructions and only in the stove, not thru the rest of the system.  Once I flushed it, then filled it with their 101 solution.  I am only on my 2nd heating season, but have not had any problems yet.  I just tested my Nitrate levels tonight and they are holding up.  If you call or email WBS they can probably get you headed in the right direction.  Weld Rite should honor their products since they are referenced in the owners manual for their stoves.
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