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Author Topic: insulation  (Read 7733 times)

ambonci

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insulation
« on: August 28, 2014, 06:32:57 PM »

removed all the old insulation and I am reinsulating it with good stuff.  what does everyone recommend?  looking for some help on what to do, gotta be better then what was in there.  thanks in advance


Adam
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mlappin

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Re: insulation
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2014, 08:11:55 PM »

If you can find it, try the mineral wool insulation. Just like fiberglass insulation except it's literally spun like cotton candy from molten slag from the steel mills. Fire, water, and rodent proof.
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Steinacher Sales

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Re: insulation
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2014, 08:40:16 AM »

Adam,

The sides are a R22 I believe and the top R 49. What is the problem with your insulation?

Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com
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ambonci

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Re: insulation
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2014, 06:18:43 AM »

Greg,
 the top got wet a few years ago and I would like to try and upgrade it a little if possible.  If I cant then ill just put the same stuff back on but new.  Really im just trying to improve boiler little by little that's all.  greg do you have a plumbing diagram of hooking the hot water heater up using one loop for heat and water using different heat exchangers.  I know we had the discussion last year about my hotwater.  im going to add a plate exchanger to my hot water and bypass the coil in the stove.  you have my email if you need to send some.

Thanks
Adam
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: insulation
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2014, 07:17:32 AM »

My buddy has a shaver 165. He took off all of the skin around the boiler and put 2 inch foam board all around the sides and then screwed the sides back on. He tried to use foam board on top but between the steam escaping from that stupid water coil hole in the back and placing the foam a little to close to the chimney he was able to destroy most of the foam he had put on top. I would seal that big hole on the back up so it didnt leak steam and the carefully place the foam on top not getting to close to the flue.
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ambonci

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Re: insulation
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2014, 06:26:14 PM »

it was just regular board foam insulation?  it doesn't melt on the sides at all?
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: insulation
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2014, 08:53:12 PM »

Yes it was Blue Dow Rigid 2" foam board. The sides only get to 180*. Not nearly hot enough to  melt foam. CB and some other manufacturers Spray Foam there units. I had my Hardy spray foamed as well.
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ambonci

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Re: insulation
« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2014, 05:47:39 AM »

ok that's what I was thinking.  did he think it helped out?  im just wondering what kind of r rating I can get out of foam board.  im gonna check into that I guess.
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: insulation
« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2014, 06:15:25 PM »

Foam board is R6 per inch I believe. That means that you would get an R12 on the sides if you do a good install fitting it nice and tight. On the top I would actually recommend Fiberglass as long as you can keep in steam from getting up into that space. Fiberglass is USELESS if it gets wet. Not wet it is actually has decent R value at around r3 per inch. Most of the heat from the stove is lost out of the top so insulate up to well. He melted the foam on top last year and was getting terrible burns times until he realized what had happened. When the foam melted it basically just disappeared and he had not insulation.
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ambonci

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Re: insulation
« Reply #9 on: September 01, 2014, 06:24:11 PM »

ok thanks Honda racer. my father-in-law actually has blue dow rigid foam board and r value on that is 10 so maybe its 20 total, dunno.  im going to put that on the sides and mineral wool on top.  probably 2 layers on top.  thanks for all the help.
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: insulation
« Reply #10 on: September 01, 2014, 06:28:48 PM »

Just looked it up, blue dow rigid foam board is R5 per inch so that is r10 if the board is 2 inch thick. Are you talking about Rockwool from Roxul? That stuff is pretty good, much better at moisture resistance then fiberglass.
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mlappin

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Re: insulation
« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2014, 08:01:30 PM »

Could be Rockwool, I haven't found a distributor yet but plan on using it on both my waste oil boiler and the new wood boiler.
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Re: insulation
« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2014, 09:58:54 PM »

Hondaracer,
That stupid hole as you call it is supposed to be caulked shut, have your buddy read the manual!

ambonci,
You say you are wanting to do away with the built in domestic coil and put in a plate exchanger. Why isn't the one in the furnace working for you?

Greg Steinacher
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www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com
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ambonci

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Re: insulation
« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2014, 06:19:13 PM »

well I purchased a bundle of r-30 roxul today.  cost around $40 for the bundle.  I bought it at lowes, not sure if it matters but those guys said its top of the line insulation right now.  he also showed me foil back foam board r-7 per inch, total of 14.  so we will see mlappin have you looked at lowes or anything for the roxul? 

Greg, I am doing away with the coil.  I have 3 kids and use lots of hot water and it just can not keep up with my demand.  I am going to order plate exchanger this week.  ive already started caping lines on back of stove to delete the coil.  I am also gonna weld a full piece of steel in the access panel where coil was. 
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mlappin

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Re: insulation
« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2014, 07:45:21 PM »

Last time I was remodeling Lowes only had fiberglass, might have it now, could also be a regional thing. 84 Lumber in our area is supposed to carry it according to Roxwools website.
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Stihl 023
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Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana
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