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[Roger2561]

All you motorcycle guys/gals, I need some assistance.  The other day I went for a short ride with my 07 Kawasaki VN900 Classic LT.  When I was about 3 miles from home it developed a whine when I'm in 5 gear traveling approximately 40mph.  If the engine rpms go any higher than that, the whine disappears.  When I got home, I put the bike in neutral, got off the seat and brought the rpms up and the whine was still there.  I've spoken to other bikers, people who claim they are mechanics and I get a variety answers; everything from the starter being hung up to the stator is going bad to drive belt noise.  I can pretty much rule out drive belt noise due to the whine being there when the bike is neutral and not moving.  The whine is coming from down low on the left side as one sits on the seat.  The sound is heard on the right but it is diminished greatly, it's not as loud as it is on the left side.  Suggestions of where to look are welcome.  Thanks.  Roger

[slimjim]

Are you leaking any transmission oil, is it seperate from the engine oil and is it full? I'm thinking bearing?

[Roger2561]

Slimjim, Thanks for the suggestions.  But, after doing an internet search and posting the problem on a Kawasaki discussion forum, the consensus is that the stator is on it's way out.  I guess Kawasaki had trouble with the '06 through the '09 models; mines an '07 model.  I was told it could a day, a week, a month, etc.. but it will quit when I am furthest from my house and I'll be stranded.  I ride alone a lot so the thought of being stranded without cell service is bit unsettling.  So, I'm borrowing my co-workers stethoscope to see if I can narrow down the location.  But, I'm quite sure I'll have to tear into it to get the old stator out and install the new one when I get a chance to order it.   

[slimjim]

Best of luck to you Roger, getting stranded Sucks, take it from me, I've been there!

[juddspaintballs]

Time to get a KLR!  If it can't be fixed with a rock or twig, it's not gonna get fixed. 

[Roger2561]

I found a video on Utube that shows how to remove the stator, it doesn't look to be a rather simple job.  Heck, if I can rebuild a diesel engine I think I can change out a stator on a motorcycle.    I'm kinda glad the weather has been iffy the past few days, it doesn't hurt as much having to leave it home instead of riding to work.   

[Roger2561]

I finally received the new stator for my bike.  I bought it aftermarket per a retired Kawasaki mechanic.  He said the newer ones aren't really that great.  He gave me a URL of an aftermarket supplier.  The OEM unit cost anywhere between $500.00 & $550.00; the aftermarket unit I purchased was around $200.00 and it's beefier than the OEM unit.  After approximately 2 hours of reassembly she was back on the road.  I went for a short ride around town and she ran nice any quiet.  But, I needed to purchase a new tool; an inch/pound torque wrench.  Everything other than major support bolts and axle shafts are in inch/pounds not foot/pounds.  106 inch/pounds isn't that much torque when one is used to foot/pounds.  Now I need the weather to straighten out a bit so I can ride more.  Roger   

[mlappin]

But, I needed to purchase a new tool; an inch/pound torque wrench.  Everything other than major support bolts and axle shafts are in inch/pounds not foot/pounds.  106 inch/pounds isn't that much torque when one is used to foot/pounds.  Now I need the weather to straighten out a bit so I can ride more.  Roger

Yep, I rebuilt a 18 speed transmission out of a articulated four wheel drive tractor that was designed to handle 500hp.

You made up a graph then tightened the bolts in the caps to 20 inch pounds, took a feeler gauge and took a measurement then marked that on the graft, tighten all the bolts to 40 inch pounds, took a measurement and marked it on the graph, did this up to a hundred inch pounds, then you drew a line thru the points on the graph and that would give you the required thickness for the cap shims to preload the bearings. If at anytime the measurement at each bolt was off more than a few thousands it meant the cap was cocking and you had to start over. The one cap was tightened to 100 inch pounds but in 5 inch pound increments. I did them all twice to make sure I had it right as the only way to redo it was to remove the cab from the tractor and pull the entire transmission assembly out the top between the framerails, transmission weighed in around 2700lbs according to specs.

[juddspaintballs]

HF sells inch-pound torque wrenches that have been proven to be very accurate.  I go by feel of hand on motorcycle parts anymore, though.  Wrench enough and you get a good feel for it.  There's nothing super critical like the transmission of a 18 speed tractor on road motorcycles.