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[lugnut]

Okay, I running the original programmable  house t-stat with the new OWB.  I have the Honeywell Aquastst with the relay.  I think I've been leaving the furnace in the "ON" position...meaning the blower is constantly on; prior to the OWB, I would set the t-stat on "AUTO".  Temps at night were set to 67-687 and during the day while we are home...maybe 72*.

I thought I read somewhere on this page where if one leaves the t-stat setting at ON" then the OWB is kid of working overtime to keep the heat in the line....so I should set it to "AUTO" then?

It gets darn warm in here at night when the stat is at 72*.

Thanks in advance and now I'm going out to check the fire and then to bed.

Lugnut

[RSI]

How exactly is it wired? Unless you have a heat pump it shouldn't have needed a relay. Or do you have a 3 way zone valve? If not and the fan runs all the time, there is nothing controlling the temperature.

[lugnut]

Well, when I went to American Royal in Plymouth to purchase the water -to-air exchanger, I explained my situation and that I didn't care for the idea of using another "manual" t-stat and that my wife wasn't crazy about having another t-stat on the wall.  Told the gentleman that i have a natural gas forced air furnace with a programmable t-stat.  He told me that I need to get the Honeywell with strap-on aquastat and it required a relay.  This is all I know.  so I purchased it and the heating fellow hooked it up for me and even he said it was the right way to go. 

No, I do not have a heat pump and I have no clue(honestly) what a 3-way zone is.  The furnace operates when it is in the blower "ON" all the time.  I have no clue if it turns on when I just have it on "auto."

By the way sir, I have some photos for you.  I will send them out in the morning or after I finish cleaning house n the morning.  I will also forward the comments made by my heating guy to you regarding the t-stat.  Also owe you and email.  Seems the more ahead I get, the behinder that I am.   

Lugnut

[RSI]

If it was hooked up properly you should just leave the thermostat alone and the gas furnace won't fire till the water temperature gets below the aquastat setting.

All they should have had to do is run the W (probably white) wire from the thermostat to the common on the aquastat and the normally closed to the W on the furnace. Then the G (probably green) from the furnace to the normally open connection on the aquastat.

Oh, now that I think about it, the relay is probably to keep the fan switch working. It won't without it.

Anyway, if you have the thermostat on auto and turn it up, go check and see if the LP furnace fired. If it did something is wrong. Then turn it down and see if the fan goes off.

If you are running the fan continuous, (fan on manual) isn't your house getting too hot? The fan is all that the thermostat is controlling.

[RSI]

Everything in the last reply was assuming you don't have an old gas furnace without manual fan input.

[lugnut]

Philip,

I talked with my heating guy on Thursday.  He reminded me that we discussed the 3-way valve thingy (shows you how much I know about this stuff) and that I opted out.  Well I've decided to go ahead and get the 3-way valve....as it will control the temps in the house much better.  Now it';s either full on or set on auto where it really doesn't come on.  Last night with all the lights from all 14 Christmas trees in my house, I actually had to turn off the furnace altogether as it was very warm in here.

Yes, the house is getting warm with the fan running all the time as well as cooling the water down eventually in the air coil.

Temps are relatively mild out today.  going to go out and mount to Ranco on the furnace and see if I can wire it correctly and play with that.  i just took delivery of my first 1.5 cord of wood.  The rest will be delivered next week...ordered up 4 full cord of wood.  This SHOULD get me through to March, provided I get that Ranco hooked up.  Still owe you some photos and an email.

Lugnut