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[theronbt]

I am getting ready to add on to my barn. It will be 35x50x10 for a garage when I am done. I will be using the existing 15x50 concrete that is already there and adding 20x50 concrete. My question is what is the best way to heat it? If I put radiant heat in the new floor would that be enough to heat the whole garage or should I just buy a hang on unit? I have a hardy h4 that I heat my house with now. I was going to put house wrap under my metal and stud the walls out and install r11 kraft face. The ceiling I thought about 6" of blown insulation. Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance

[agriffinjd]

Where you located?  I use a hanging heater for a 30x40x10.5' garage, with R21 fiberglass insulation in the walls (2x6 framed) and R50 in the attic (about 15-16" of blown cellulose).  Works great.  Even if you're further south than me (Upper Michigan), I'd blow in at least a foot of cellulose in the attic since you're up there and it's easier to blow it in to the proper depth once rather than go back up and add more if you regret it later.  I got my cellulose at Menard's for 5 bucks a bag after a rebate sale. 

[theronbt]

I am located in southeast ohio

[Sluggo]

Definitely go 2x6 walls and 16"+ in the attic or you may as well save your money and not do it at all.  2" high density Dow board under the concrete and the infloor in the new concrete will be enough to heat the space.  Maybe run an extra couple of runs and you will be fine.

[slimjim]

The most important place for insolation on a radiant slab is the perimeter walls, around 80% of heat loss comes from the sides.

[mlappin]

The most important place for insolation on a radiant slab is the perimeter walls, around 80% of heat loss comes from the sides.

 

Wish I could get my Dad to believe that, he's got it in his head that we can replace just some of the concrete in the shop, add radiant to that and heat the whole shop without insulating the perimeter. My opinion on the whole matter is if your not going to heat the majority of the floor and insulate it properly it ain't worth doing.

I'd like a heated floor no doubt about that, but it's not really a necessity, my feet don't get cold and the majority of the work we do in the shop is either fabrication, tractors or equipment so very little laying under something on a creeper anyways. Most that may happen then is changing oil and greasing the straight trucks, grain trucks and semi which I usually do when it's warmer anyways. I do have one clutch job that needs done on a straight truck but will pay a local truck shop, I don't have a transmission jack, and I'm not going to buy one rated to handle a 9 speed eaton just for a clutch job every 5 years or so.

[LittleJohn]

The most important place for insolation on a radiant slab is the perimeter walls, around 80% of heat loss comes from the sides.

...casue you don't want to be mowing the green grass next to the building in FEBRUARY.   

You should be able to use the heat from the new in-slab to heat the whole area, just remember that your comfort level may be less because the entire slab is not heating. 

BTW, I have seen a few decent sized commercial buliding/warehouses (10k+ SF) and they only insulate and heat the exterior 18' or so, and can successfully keep the building somewhat evenly heated.  They also do not care about comfort or what the monthly heating bill is.

[atvalaska]

time to read!!! > http://makinghouseswork.cchrc.org/2013/shallow-frost-protected-foundations-a-good-option-for-the-right-site/

[atvalaska]

http://www.cchrc.org/publications       lots of info here on building for the cold ...and beating it!