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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Making a hot ash vacuum?
« on: February 05, 2014, 07:21:45 AM »
I was thinking. Since my furnace doesn't have grates and adding them seems expensive and complicated; maybe if I could make a vacuum to suck the ash out that would be even better. Plus I always get filthy shoveling out the ash. Anyone ever tried this? Care to share a design?
I have a shop vac. I was thinking of something that would use my current metal trash cans for the ash. Modify the lid for the tubes. Perhaps powered by my shop vac or some other inexpensive blower (like a leaf blower). Thinking the heat may be too much for the shop vac though. Really don't want to melt it. Also I assume the hoses would need to be heat resistant.
I have a shop vac. I was thinking of something that would use my current metal trash cans for the ash. Modify the lid for the tubes. Perhaps powered by my shop vac or some other inexpensive blower (like a leaf blower). Thinking the heat may be too much for the shop vac though. Really don't want to melt it. Also I assume the hoses would need to be heat resistant.
2
Plumbing / help sizing pumps
« on: December 29, 2013, 08:23:17 AM »
I would like to redo my setup a bit to optimize it. I think my current configuration is poor. Here are my loops:
The boiler is pretty much level with the house and about 50' away. My line are all on the main floor so maybe +/-6' from the boiler port height differential. Everything is run in 1" pex.
Main loop from the boiler to the house is about 50' and just loops back.
1st loop is only 10' and supplies the pool water heater. I have been told to try for at least 15-20GPM on this exchanger for good performance. Tubes in shell style.
2nd loop is about 25' and has a 30 plate exchanger for my DWH (with bypass valve) and then a 3-way to either loop back or supply my pool room heat exchanger (water-air)
3rd loop is 250' and supplies two 3-ways that either divert or supply my two house exchangers (both water-air)
I currently have a:
taco 009-BF5-J
taco 007-F5
grundfos UPS26-99 3 speed.
Would love to use these pumps if possible but realize I probably need to buy at least one more as I think none of these are adequate as the main supply line pump. I was thinking the taco 9 would be good for the 2nd loop as I should not need a lot of flow. Perhaps the taco 7 for the 3rd loop figuring I have a long run to drive and don't need that much flow. And finally the grundfos on the 1st probably on the middle speed. Thinking I need something in the 50GPM range for the main loop. Any suggestions?
Thanks
The boiler is pretty much level with the house and about 50' away. My line are all on the main floor so maybe +/-6' from the boiler port height differential. Everything is run in 1" pex.
Main loop from the boiler to the house is about 50' and just loops back.
1st loop is only 10' and supplies the pool water heater. I have been told to try for at least 15-20GPM on this exchanger for good performance. Tubes in shell style.
2nd loop is about 25' and has a 30 plate exchanger for my DWH (with bypass valve) and then a 3-way to either loop back or supply my pool room heat exchanger (water-air)
3rd loop is 250' and supplies two 3-ways that either divert or supply my two house exchangers (both water-air)
I currently have a:
taco 009-BF5-J
taco 007-F5
grundfos UPS26-99 3 speed.
Would love to use these pumps if possible but realize I probably need to buy at least one more as I think none of these are adequate as the main supply line pump. I was thinking the taco 9 would be good for the 2nd loop as I should not need a lot of flow. Perhaps the taco 7 for the 3rd loop figuring I have a long run to drive and don't need that much flow. And finally the grundfos on the 1st probably on the middle speed. Thinking I need something in the 50GPM range for the main loop. Any suggestions?
Thanks
3
Central Boiler / door handle is tight?
« on: October 09, 2013, 09:51:40 AM »
I have had my 6048 for about 2 years now. I have noticed inthe last couple months the door handle is getting harder to open/close. It feels like a detent to get it in the fully closed postion and likewise to get it open. I know the door gaskets can wear, but I would expect that to make it looser. Any ideas what I need to do here. You have to give it a pretty good jerk to get it open and likewise to latch it shut. It doesn't seem to be leaking air. No over temp issues even on the hot days. Don't see anything obviouse around the seal area.
4
Central Boiler / grate
« on: February 18, 2013, 10:03:46 AM »
So I made a grate for my 6048. I learned a great deal, primarily that I am really bad at welding! My grate is two part. The first part sits back in the boiler and spans the back with a heat shield to reflect the heat back up front and keep things from falling behind the grate. It also has a cradle for the grate to pivot on. The second part is the grate which is just closely spaced pipes with wire mesh over top. It rests on the back part, in the cradle and on the door opening. I left open threads on the front so I can screw in handles and hing the grate up out of the way for cleaning under it.
I got it installed the other day, amazingly it all fit in through the door and in place and was pretty nice. The heat shield I think it too tall and too close to the last baffle. Seems my draft is a bit messed up so I have to use the blower full time now or it doesn't really burn right. I used 1/2" black iron pipe to make the grate and that was not strong enough as it has sagged a lot, but is still working. I am thinking about remaking it in either 1" or some other metal. I think I might pay someone to weld a grate for me outta bar stock.
With the blower on the system seems to be working better than ever and it is burning down almost completely. When it gets low I just screw in the handles and give it a shake. I have not had to clean it out yet as it has only been a week, but there is not much ash and it looks pretty fine. I know before, after the first burn after cleaning it out, seemed like the ashes were back to the door level instantly and I would get a lot of small un-burnt coals trapped in them.
Anyways, so far I am pretty happy with it. I would like to modify the back so it will natural draft again and rebuilt the grate, but I am really looking forward to my next cleaning, usually about once a month so I have 3 more weeks.
I got it installed the other day, amazingly it all fit in through the door and in place and was pretty nice. The heat shield I think it too tall and too close to the last baffle. Seems my draft is a bit messed up so I have to use the blower full time now or it doesn't really burn right. I used 1/2" black iron pipe to make the grate and that was not strong enough as it has sagged a lot, but is still working. I am thinking about remaking it in either 1" or some other metal. I think I might pay someone to weld a grate for me outta bar stock.
With the blower on the system seems to be working better than ever and it is burning down almost completely. When it gets low I just screw in the handles and give it a shake. I have not had to clean it out yet as it has only been a week, but there is not much ash and it looks pretty fine. I know before, after the first burn after cleaning it out, seemed like the ashes were back to the door level instantly and I would get a lot of small un-burnt coals trapped in them.
Anyways, so far I am pretty happy with it. I would like to modify the back so it will natural draft again and rebuilt the grate, but I am really looking forward to my next cleaning, usually about once a month so I have 3 more weeks.
5
Plumbing / inverse flanges?
« on: January 15, 2013, 07:36:32 AM »
Does anyone sell the pump side of the flange? I was interested in making a "pump" bypass. So I could pull a pump and insert a piece of pipe basically. So I would need the pump side of the flanges with the groove and o-ring. Either threaded or barbed on the other side. Does this exist?
-Bret
-Bret
6
Plumbing / Flow issue?
« on: January 10, 2013, 11:02:50 AM »
I am having an issue with my flow. Attached is my plumbing diagram. The pump that runs the house Hx runs 24/7. The pump at the boiler also runs 24/7 and is a Grundfos 26-99 I think. The problem is that when the pump running the Pool exchanger is off, I am still seeing some flow through that loop. That causes a problem because when the pool pump is off, then this exchanger get very hot which is bad for the PVC the pool is plumbed with; as well as the filter and sanatizer. Any thoughts as to what I have done wrong? I have tried to draw it as close to representative as possible as far as tee positions and distances.
Thanks
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
Thanks
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
7
Plumbing / 1 1/2" metal to plastic?
« on: December 15, 2012, 03:21:30 PM »
I am having issues wit hthe plastic fittings in my titanium shell/tube exchanger. When the system is working properly, it seems ok as the water in the plastic side is cool, but when something goes wrong, like my 3-way valve leaking, it gets very hot leaks. I was thinking perhaps I would be better with a metal-metal seal there. Not surewhat is out there in 1 1/2" from metal and how to get back to plastic. Do they even make a male adapter with a plastic transition? Or could I use some kind of metal union, still need a plastic transition though.
8
Electronics / timer for blower
« on: December 15, 2012, 11:48:03 AM »
I have been watching my furnace temperatures and I think my blower may be cooling the fire box too much when the fire is low. I was thinking that maybe it would be best if the blower only came on for say 5 min and then it just used natural draft. Just to get the fire restarted quick. Anyone know of a device that would do this. I was thinking something I could just put inline with the wires to the blower. Just needs to allow power trough for about 5 min and reset when the power is off.
9
Plumbing / 3way zone valve issue
« on: December 02, 2012, 07:53:12 AM »
I set my system up to work on a single pump and used 3-way zone valves to control the flow to my various exchangers. I had an issue with my pool plumbing and had to rework some of hte pipes. I noticed that the exchanger is very hot even though the 3-way valve is supposed to be off to it. Do these leak a little? The pex piping is fairly short, maybe about 6 feet on either side of the exchanger back to the main loop. Could it just be conducting? I am worried about this because the pool plumbing is just standard PVC and it threads into this exchanger. One of the issues is that this adapter started leaking. I was thinking it might be due to thermal change.
When the pool pump is running it keeps it cool, but it only runs part of the day.
Thoughts?
I looked at my data. I think the valve is malfunctioning. Back in November, when the valve was off I would see the temperature on the Hx drop to almost ambient. Sometime about mid November, I start seeing the off temp climbing. Now it is pretty much stuck on it looks. Any idea what fails on these and is it repairable? It is only 1-2 years old.
When the pool pump is running it keeps it cool, but it only runs part of the day.
Thoughts?
I looked at my data. I think the valve is malfunctioning. Back in November, when the valve was off I would see the temperature on the Hx drop to almost ambient. Sometime about mid November, I start seeing the off temp climbing. Now it is pretty much stuck on it looks. Any idea what fails on these and is it repairable? It is only 1-2 years old.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Electric generation?
« on: March 22, 2012, 10:06:44 AM »
I have been interested in getting electricity out of my boiler since the day I got it. Seems there should be a way. Then, when I lose power I will still have heat. I only need a 200-300Watts to run the boiler I believe, but since I have forced air in the house I would need some considerable power to drive those blowers. Also be cool if it could power my dehumdifiers in the pool room. I recently ran across this engine "stirling engine" and it seems it might be able to work. Not sure about how much heat it needs to operate though. Was even thinking I could cool the cold side with the pool water which would recover the heat to heating the water. This would put 180-190F on one side and 80-85F on the other. Could the boiler water be hot enough? All the demos use a flame. Anyway, just wondering if anyone ever tried this and what kind of wattage one could get. Ideally I need 5KW to really run the heart of my house I think, at least 3KW anyways.
12
Central Boiler / adding a grate?
« on: March 05, 2012, 08:02:35 AM »
Anyone add a grate to thier classic? Seems like this would help it operate and help with cleanout. Maybe even allow it to burn more fully. I was imagining a grate about 8" off the bottom and about 2-3'deep. That way I could push the whole grate back to allow access to shovel the ash out from under it. Then pull it back to the front to keep the wood close to the door. I was even wondering about adding some air channels/ducts to try to force the air to enter and be dispersed up through the bottom of the stack, or maybe along the edges. Since I have the blower too, I was thinking this might be possible. Seems not ideal to just be blowing the air on the face of the stack.
I was thinking of a design where the grate would fold in half so it could be inserted into the fire box and then unfold it. That way it would be wall-wall.
Thoughts?
I was thinking of a design where the grate would fold in half so it could be inserted into the fire box and then unfold it. That way it would be wall-wall.
Thoughts?
13
Central Boiler / recovery time
« on: March 05, 2012, 07:58:01 AM »
I am having some issues with me CB6048. When I am bad and let the fire die down to far, it seems to take a really long time to recover. For instance, the other day it had died down a bit. There where still plenty of coals, but really no chunks of wood. The water temp had dropped to 155. I raked it real good and filled it up. My wood is pretty green and i keep it in large peices, 24" long by ~8". After an hour, it was oly up to 160. The weather was very mild, it was like 60 outside. I had turned the pool off so it only had the occasional house heat call. i did not get a fix on when it finally recovered, but I would really expect it to recover in under and hour with little load. I also have the blower kit which would seem to aid this if anything. i do have a good bit of ash in the bottom right now, it is probably due for a cleaning out. Any thoughts? Is this normal? I would guess it was fully recovered in 2 hrs.
14
Plumbing / plumbing configuration?
« on: January 30, 2012, 07:14:24 AM »
I have a single pump and loop for my house. On that loop is my DHW, 3 water/air exchangers and one water/water exchanger for my pool. I think this is causing some bad things since it is frequent that 2 items are on at a given time, 3 a lot of the time since the pool kind of comes on and stays on for the better part of the day. This is causing my returning water to be very cool. Like 110*F. I think this is causing my thermostatic valve to pretty much keep my system choked down almost all the time since it is set at 150*F.
What I was thinking of doing was splitting my system into 2 loops.
1st loop = DWH plus two of my house exchangers
2nd loop = my 3rd house exchanger and my pool water exchanger
I only have the one set of 1" lines coming into the house though. Can I simply tee it off and go to the two loops and then recombine it again? I was thinking I could install ball valves to control the flow rates to each loop. It doesn't seem to make sense to put a manifold in since that reduces the pipe size and all my exchangers are 1". I was hoping that my pump is capable of much more flow and is being limited by the long loop and all the valves. So I was thinking by splittting it they would maybe still get about the same flow; plus the returning water will hopfully be above the 150 so my thermostatic valve doesnt kick in.
Thoughts?
I have a Grundfos UP26-99F pump. It should be capable of 34GPM
What I was thinking of doing was splitting my system into 2 loops.
1st loop = DWH plus two of my house exchangers
2nd loop = my 3rd house exchanger and my pool water exchanger
I only have the one set of 1" lines coming into the house though. Can I simply tee it off and go to the two loops and then recombine it again? I was thinking I could install ball valves to control the flow rates to each loop. It doesn't seem to make sense to put a manifold in since that reduces the pipe size and all my exchangers are 1". I was hoping that my pump is capable of much more flow and is being limited by the long loop and all the valves. So I was thinking by splittting it they would maybe still get about the same flow; plus the returning water will hopfully be above the 150 so my thermostatic valve doesnt kick in.
Thoughts?
I have a Grundfos UP26-99F pump. It should be capable of 34GPM
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / inexpensive flow meter?
« on: January 11, 2012, 12:52:02 PM »
I am looking for a way to measure my flow rate. I would love something strap-on, but an inline device would be fine to. I would prefer something that was non-intrusive as I do not want to impede my flow rate just to measure it. i was hoping for something under $200.
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