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1
Shaver Furnace / Shaver has locked their doors and left town
« on: July 21, 2016, 12:57:58 PM »
For some of you on here, you may recall that I had never had issues with my Shaver Pro Series 250, but of course I had upgraded from the first piece of crap they made for me...a Shaver 165. The first furnace was literally a piece of crap. I don't weld and I KNOW I could have learned and welded better...and I KNOW how to read a tape measure...whomever built my 165 was very much UNEDUCATED!! They drilled holes inthe roof, only to miss frame work underneath and left the hole wide open...no caulk or plugs of any kind...the rear door would NOT close because frame work was either warped from the heat of welding r was not measured correctly...again. 
I toll him that I will give he and his company the benefit of doubt and that I will upgrade from 165 to the 250, because my salesperson talked me into getting a furnace that was highly under rated.
I was thoroughly pissed and made phone calls and finally got to the MAIN guy. When Billy Shaver..NOT BEN, talked to me ear-to-ear back in 2010, he asked me what I would like for him to do?
I toll him that I will give he and his company the benefit of doubt and that I will upgrade from 165 to the 250, because my salesperson talked me into getting a furnace that was highly under rated. We had a lengthy conversation and I toll him what I wanted, that the furnace they build for me this LAST time will be built so well that Mrs. Shaver would like it to be in her dining room with her fine china and silverware in it.
Well guys, Billy Shaver came through with flying colors. The truck came, picked up the other piece of crap, but the driver did NOT leave until I checked the new furnace over from top to bottom and side to side.
Upon connecting unit to electric and running all the appropriate pex lines to their final location, I commenced to fill the 250 up. When the filling of water was complete, I then added the NASA approved rust blocker.
This November will be 5 years for the 250 and I was due for chemical replacement and of course Shaver no longer provided that, so I had to go to a third party, recommended to me by Greg Steinacher. I ordered up the chemical from Image Solution and the cost was $288, which included two gallons of chemical and five free testings.
Now there was question regarding the testing of water with the Shavers...even on this website. My manual stated quite clearly that I did NOT have to send in water samples...I still have it in black and white in my owner's manual. I KNOW others on here swore up and down that Shaver required testing of water or the warranty would be void.
When I poured in the allotted gallon and one half of the new chemical, I was requested to send in a couple water samples to company that provided the chemicals...which I did and they came back and said, "there is NO sign or indication of our chemical being present." WTH?? So I provided them with a gallon at their request three weeks later...again...no presence of chemical. I dunno what happened to it...so WHERE ARE YOU GOING WITH THIS LUGGY?
I had NO issues with my 250, well maybe at first because it needed upgrading...toss out the junk water heater t-stat, install Rancho; toss out junk Astro pump, install Taco 0111 and a couple other mods. I had NO leaks whatsoever ....until this June!
I noticed moisture along the right rear side of the furnace.....well I know it hadn't rained in a couple days...maybe one of the valves or a pex line is leaking? NOPE! that would have been too easy. So I proceeded to remove the corrugated siding and low and behold...there was the leak...in the BOTTOM of the water tank...about one foot off right side and two feet from rear. Although I could not see the actual hole, I did watch it drip...drip...drip and I determined it to be a size of a pencil point...hmmm how long has it been leaking.
The question I had is WHY WAS IT LEAKING AND WHY WAS IT LEAKING IN THIS LOCATION? Every end of season I clean the furnace out....scrape what creosote there is, which is minimal on firebox walls and then vacuum ALL remnants of ash/soot out and then spray down with a light coat of oil, I also thoroughly clean out the ash box...and vacuum it too, but no oil. Put a five gallon bucket over stack and top off water if need be. Pumps stay running all summer long because I operate off well water.
During burn season, I emptied the ash box every other day whether it needed it or not...and I DID stir the ashes that were present. The Rancho was set at 180* with a 15* differential...get down to 165* and on went the blower. I did EVERYTHING by the manual and still got a leak.
I do NOT know why or what caused the leak...especially after five years. And of course I DID immediately call Shaver and got a "the number you dialed is no longer in service" recording. Okay, well maybe I dialed the incorrect number...I dialed ALL the numbers I had and including numbers on their supposedly website...NO LUCK. I then spoke with two sales people that I TRUST for their honesty and straight talk and neither one's name began with a "B". They told me Shaver is out of business!
S, I ascertained from their lack of response etc, that they were NOT going to honor their 20 year warranty. Why doesn't this surprise me that they went out of business???
Anyway, for those of you with Shaver furnaces...GOOD LUCK.
I am going to repair mine over the next two weeks and it will go up on the sale block. This unit (less shipping) originally cost me $5900 August 2011. So anyone in my area looking for a decent furnace that will heat 6,000 square feet with mods made...I will have one for sale at $2500...not including shipping/handling. You want it, come get it and bring CASH.
Luggy
I toll him that I will give he and his company the benefit of doubt and that I will upgrade from 165 to the 250, because my salesperson talked me into getting a furnace that was highly under rated.
I was thoroughly pissed and made phone calls and finally got to the MAIN guy. When Billy Shaver..NOT BEN, talked to me ear-to-ear back in 2010, he asked me what I would like for him to do?
I toll him that I will give he and his company the benefit of doubt and that I will upgrade from 165 to the 250, because my salesperson talked me into getting a furnace that was highly under rated. We had a lengthy conversation and I toll him what I wanted, that the furnace they build for me this LAST time will be built so well that Mrs. Shaver would like it to be in her dining room with her fine china and silverware in it.
Well guys, Billy Shaver came through with flying colors. The truck came, picked up the other piece of crap, but the driver did NOT leave until I checked the new furnace over from top to bottom and side to side.
Upon connecting unit to electric and running all the appropriate pex lines to their final location, I commenced to fill the 250 up. When the filling of water was complete, I then added the NASA approved rust blocker.
This November will be 5 years for the 250 and I was due for chemical replacement and of course Shaver no longer provided that, so I had to go to a third party, recommended to me by Greg Steinacher. I ordered up the chemical from Image Solution and the cost was $288, which included two gallons of chemical and five free testings.
Now there was question regarding the testing of water with the Shavers...even on this website. My manual stated quite clearly that I did NOT have to send in water samples...I still have it in black and white in my owner's manual. I KNOW others on here swore up and down that Shaver required testing of water or the warranty would be void.
When I poured in the allotted gallon and one half of the new chemical, I was requested to send in a couple water samples to company that provided the chemicals...which I did and they came back and said, "there is NO sign or indication of our chemical being present." WTH?? So I provided them with a gallon at their request three weeks later...again...no presence of chemical. I dunno what happened to it...so WHERE ARE YOU GOING WITH THIS LUGGY?
I had NO issues with my 250, well maybe at first because it needed upgrading...toss out the junk water heater t-stat, install Rancho; toss out junk Astro pump, install Taco 0111 and a couple other mods. I had NO leaks whatsoever ....until this June!
I noticed moisture along the right rear side of the furnace.....well I know it hadn't rained in a couple days...maybe one of the valves or a pex line is leaking? NOPE! that would have been too easy. So I proceeded to remove the corrugated siding and low and behold...there was the leak...in the BOTTOM of the water tank...about one foot off right side and two feet from rear. Although I could not see the actual hole, I did watch it drip...drip...drip and I determined it to be a size of a pencil point...hmmm how long has it been leaking.
The question I had is WHY WAS IT LEAKING AND WHY WAS IT LEAKING IN THIS LOCATION? Every end of season I clean the furnace out....scrape what creosote there is, which is minimal on firebox walls and then vacuum ALL remnants of ash/soot out and then spray down with a light coat of oil, I also thoroughly clean out the ash box...and vacuum it too, but no oil. Put a five gallon bucket over stack and top off water if need be. Pumps stay running all summer long because I operate off well water.
During burn season, I emptied the ash box every other day whether it needed it or not...and I DID stir the ashes that were present. The Rancho was set at 180* with a 15* differential...get down to 165* and on went the blower. I did EVERYTHING by the manual and still got a leak.
I do NOT know why or what caused the leak...especially after five years. And of course I DID immediately call Shaver and got a "the number you dialed is no longer in service" recording. Okay, well maybe I dialed the incorrect number...I dialed ALL the numbers I had and including numbers on their supposedly website...NO LUCK. I then spoke with two sales people that I TRUST for their honesty and straight talk and neither one's name began with a "B". They told me Shaver is out of business!
S, I ascertained from their lack of response etc, that they were NOT going to honor their 20 year warranty. Why doesn't this surprise me that they went out of business???
Anyway, for those of you with Shaver furnaces...GOOD LUCK.
I am going to repair mine over the next two weeks and it will go up on the sale block. This unit (less shipping) originally cost me $5900 August 2011. So anyone in my area looking for a decent furnace that will heat 6,000 square feet with mods made...I will have one for sale at $2500...not including shipping/handling. You want it, come get it and bring CASH.
Luggy
2
Shaver Furnace / So far....knock on wood.....
« on: May 04, 2013, 09:37:12 PM »
I've not had any issues with my shaver. I opriginally had the 165, but it was a piece of crap and I told THE boss man so and they sent me a new one, but I had upgraded to the Pro serie3s 290 and I told them that I want my unit something that they woould be proud to have in their living room with their finisest dishes in it.
I did receive the second one in a tmely fashion...and regarding the phone calls that have gone unanswered, depends what number you dialed. I never had an issue, but then too I was never one to fool around with the shop foreman or person in the office pushing the pencils around...i have ALWAYS gone directly to the person in charge.
I did a number of mods on my Shaver, thanks in part to several before me who had done similar updates. to this date I can honestly say that I have had no issues. thought I was having a heat loss issue this past season and thought it was due to the pex lines, but the fact was the wood I was burning, that and the fact that I did not have the lines that ran into the house and to the basement wrapped with insulated foam. this coming season I WILL be brung hardwood and will be able to bump up the t-stat to 189* vesus the 160* I did last season.
Regarding the draining of water at the end of the season and testing the water...NO and NO!! I was told by Billy shaver that one does NOT have to drain the unit at the end of the season...besides after adding the "expensive" additive, why on earth would you do this...drain the system?? It IS recommended that every FIVE years you replenish the system with the rust inhibitor. Alos, in the manual and according to Billy...we do NOT have to test the water. Y'all might want to re-read the ENTIRE manual.
The ONLY issue I had with my shaver at the beginning of last season was the pump locked up on me...and this was through my OWN fault. I did NOT run the pump every so oftenduring the summer and my well water locked it up. This time around, I'm letting the pump run all summer long as it doesn't cost but pennies a day.
Lugnut
I did receive the second one in a tmely fashion...and regarding the phone calls that have gone unanswered, depends what number you dialed. I never had an issue, but then too I was never one to fool around with the shop foreman or person in the office pushing the pencils around...i have ALWAYS gone directly to the person in charge.
I did a number of mods on my Shaver, thanks in part to several before me who had done similar updates. to this date I can honestly say that I have had no issues. thought I was having a heat loss issue this past season and thought it was due to the pex lines, but the fact was the wood I was burning, that and the fact that I did not have the lines that ran into the house and to the basement wrapped with insulated foam. this coming season I WILL be brung hardwood and will be able to bump up the t-stat to 189* vesus the 160* I did last season.
Regarding the draining of water at the end of the season and testing the water...NO and NO!! I was told by Billy shaver that one does NOT have to drain the unit at the end of the season...besides after adding the "expensive" additive, why on earth would you do this...drain the system?? It IS recommended that every FIVE years you replenish the system with the rust inhibitor. Alos, in the manual and according to Billy...we do NOT have to test the water. Y'all might want to re-read the ENTIRE manual.
The ONLY issue I had with my shaver at the beginning of last season was the pump locked up on me...and this was through my OWN fault. I did NOT run the pump every so oftenduring the summer and my well water locked it up. This time around, I'm letting the pump run all summer long as it doesn't cost but pennies a day.
Lugnut
3
Shaver Furnace / Just to let EVERYONE know.....
« on: January 28, 2012, 02:51:10 PM »
I got the Ranco wired up last Tuesday. I gave in and called my electrician. I thank those who offered advice on my doing the wiring. Believe me, I tried several times and just could not get the darn thing to operate, so I called in the big guns. 
What a world of difference! So nice to be able to some what control when the damper opens and closes. So I need everyone's input here...I have it set at off at 175 with a differential of 10* What say you?
Lugnut
What a world of difference! So nice to be able to some what control when the damper opens and closes. So I need everyone's input here...I have it set at off at 175 with a differential of 10* What say you?
Lugnut
4
Site Suggestions / Wondering during posting....
« on: January 27, 2012, 08:23:30 AM »
How come, after I've made a reply or posted a new thread, that I cannot return to the same page, but instead the format returns me to the forum site? In other words, when I finish typing this and hit "post" instead of it coming back to this same thread, I get returned to the page for " site suggestions."
Lugnut
Lugnut
5
Shaver Furnace / You're fired!!!!
« on: January 20, 2012, 01:33:35 PM »
Okay, so here's the deal. I don't know if I'm supposed to have this subject in the "Firewood" page or the "general discussion" page, but being that I'm a Shaver owner and the operator of a Shaver and it involves a Shaver, I suppose I'm okay. IF this belongs somewhere else (be nice) then by all means move it.
First off, allow me to say that I "attempted" several times to install the Ranco myself and I THANK all those who tried to guide me...but alas, I decided to let the professionals do the wiring because frankly, I couldn't tell what the heck was going on. o I would like to report that the Ranco is FINALLY connected.
Of course upon programming this unit I discovered my water temp was a mere 110* WHAT??? Well this is not good...this is unsatisfactory.
My question is this, when you folks go out to your "beasts" in the morning to put wood in, do you throw the big whole pieces in or go with the little stuff and build up over the course of the day? One would "think" that I should know by now. I went out this morning and had medium size pieces of tree left and had hot coals. So I threw a couple of large pieces of tree onto the coals and other tree pieces. Seems like it is going to take forever to get the water temp up and over 110*. For my differential I have the blower coming on at 160 and off at 170. Does this seem about right? But of course I have to get up there first with the present wood in the box.
Anyway, back to the original question, if you have hot coals and a couple pieces of medium sized tree left, do you throw in small trees or med. to large size trees?
Lugnut
Still learning.......
First off, allow me to say that I "attempted" several times to install the Ranco myself and I THANK all those who tried to guide me...but alas, I decided to let the professionals do the wiring because frankly, I couldn't tell what the heck was going on. o I would like to report that the Ranco is FINALLY connected.
Of course upon programming this unit I discovered my water temp was a mere 110* WHAT??? Well this is not good...this is unsatisfactory.
My question is this, when you folks go out to your "beasts" in the morning to put wood in, do you throw the big whole pieces in or go with the little stuff and build up over the course of the day? One would "think" that I should know by now. I went out this morning and had medium size pieces of tree left and had hot coals. So I threw a couple of large pieces of tree onto the coals and other tree pieces. Seems like it is going to take forever to get the water temp up and over 110*. For my differential I have the blower coming on at 160 and off at 170. Does this seem about right? But of course I have to get up there first with the present wood in the box.
Anyway, back to the original question, if you have hot coals and a couple pieces of medium sized tree left, do you throw in small trees or med. to large size trees?
Lugnut
Still learning.......
6
Shaver Furnace / Pipe dream or one flue over the electric SHAVER
« on: January 02, 2012, 11:21:35 PM »
So while sitting over at a friend's house I was discussing the issue I have in not being able to see if the old Shaver is working. In other words, there are times where I can see smoke coming out of the flue OR if I'm really lucky, I can see the heat waves rolling out....so she came up with the idea of having some tell tail sign to inform me.
What do you guys think about this: Someone must make a hose clamp that is 5.5" in diameter ( because all of us Shaver owners have that odd ball sized flue pipe); take an 1/8" rod or brake line and place it along side the flue and tighten it down with the hose clamp; fasten onto the top of the rod/brake line either aluminum foil or a thin piece of tin that will flutter with the heat coming out of the flue.
This will serve three purposes:
1) Visual aid to see that furnace is operating
2) Save on trying to keep the binoculars steady while trying to look through them
3) Save on having to go outside and trudge through the foot of snow only to find out that the OWF is alive and well
Whatcha all think? Oh and just in case...I already patented the idea.
Lugnut
What do you guys think about this: Someone must make a hose clamp that is 5.5" in diameter ( because all of us Shaver owners have that odd ball sized flue pipe); take an 1/8" rod or brake line and place it along side the flue and tighten it down with the hose clamp; fasten onto the top of the rod/brake line either aluminum foil or a thin piece of tin that will flutter with the heat coming out of the flue.
This will serve three purposes:
1) Visual aid to see that furnace is operating
2) Save on trying to keep the binoculars steady while trying to look through them
3) Save on having to go outside and trudge through the foot of snow only to find out that the OWF is alive and well
Whatcha all think? Oh and just in case...I already patented the idea.
Lugnut
7
Shaver Furnace / Woodn't you know....
« on: December 31, 2011, 11:09:43 AM »
Yep, prolly on the wrong thread again. I've a bad habit forming. So anyway, I ordered up wood for the Old Shaver. Got a really good deal...I think, at least so far that's what I've been told. 4 FULL cords for $160 each. Wood is hickory, oak and something else. 2-3 yr old hardwood. Took delivery of 1.5 cord this morning and will get the rest sometime next week. I ordered (4) full cords.
Now I have to decide whether to nicely stack the wood or just cover the pile with a tarp. It WILL take a good part of the day stacking it and then for the same when the rest arrives. Think I'll just cover it with a tarp.
Lugnut
Now I have to decide whether to nicely stack the wood or just cover the pile with a tarp. It WILL take a good part of the day stacking it and then for the same when the rest arrives. Think I'll just cover it with a tarp.
Lugnut
8
Electronics / Anther t-stat question
« on: December 29, 2011, 09:34:12 PM »
Okay, I running the original programmable house t-stat with the new OWB. I have the Honeywell Aquastst with the relay. I think I've been leaving the furnace in the "ON" position...meaning the blower is constantly on; prior to the OWB, I would set the t-stat on "AUTO". Temps at night were set to 67-687 and during the day while we are home...maybe 72*.
I thought I read somewhere on this page where if one leaves the t-stat setting at ON" then the OWB is kid of working overtime to keep the heat in the line....so I should set it to "AUTO" then?
It gets darn warm in here at night when the stat is at 72*.
Thanks in advance and now I'm going out to check the fire and then to bed.
Lugnut
I thought I read somewhere on this page where if one leaves the t-stat setting at ON" then the OWB is kid of working overtime to keep the heat in the line....so I should set it to "AUTO" then?
It gets darn warm in here at night when the stat is at 72*.
Thanks in advance and now I'm going out to check the fire and then to bed.
Lugnut
9
Shaver Furnace / So did everyone miss me? LOL!!
« on: December 29, 2011, 09:19:32 PM »
I took a leave of absence for the entire computer thing over Christmas. Thought I'd give myself and fingers a break, but I have to tell you I was going through withdraws....sure I could go outside and open the firebox door and get refreshed and renewed...but it just wasn't the same as coming on here every night and reading and reading and reading.....Every day/night that i was on this site, I was learning and it was actually "soaking in" and not just going through one eye and out the other.
I never got around to installing the Ranco..."hopefully" this weekend though as is going to be warm for this time of the year. The other little issues I have will just have to wait until the weather gets warmer and there is less mud to walk around in.
So it's great to be "home" and I see we have some new OWB in the crowd. Welcome to the site my friends!
Well time to go out and check the fire and then head off to bed.
Lugnut
I never got around to installing the Ranco..."hopefully" this weekend though as is going to be warm for this time of the year. The other little issues I have will just have to wait until the weather gets warmer and there is less mud to walk around in.
So it's great to be "home" and I see we have some new OWB in the crowd. Welcome to the site my friends!
Well time to go out and check the fire and then head off to bed.
Lugnut
10
Shaver Furnace / Woody and Buzz Lighthead.................
« on: December 23, 2011, 08:41:44 AM »
This subject matter/question could go in two areas on this forum, but I chose to place it here because of the Shaver unit. The wood I have been putting ion my 250 is from when I cut down 6-7 red oak trees 5 years ago. This wood was cut in 18-24" lengths and split because AT the time it was just going to be used in my wood burning fireplace in the lower level.
So now I "know" from others telling me this that I should NOT block the chimney in the rear of the unit...another no brainer. I have been loading the wood and placing it more towards the door and front sides. Do I dare go further back when piling wood in there?
I do not stack it up to the top...I do leave about 3-4" from the top of the firebox.
Next question, I'm going to be ordering up wood come either early January or mid January. I think it will be coming in 8' lengths. Given that this Shaver 250 is 54" deep on the inside, how long should I make the wood when I cut it down to size? 2'? 3'? 4'? And do I split it or leave it whole? It will be 2 year seasoned hardwood.
I'm sure I'll think of another couple questions regarding this as the day goes on, and I will come back and add to this post if that happens.
As usual, I thank you in advance.
Lugnut
aka: jerry
So now I "know" from others telling me this that I should NOT block the chimney in the rear of the unit...another no brainer. I have been loading the wood and placing it more towards the door and front sides. Do I dare go further back when piling wood in there?
I do not stack it up to the top...I do leave about 3-4" from the top of the firebox.
Next question, I'm going to be ordering up wood come either early January or mid January. I think it will be coming in 8' lengths. Given that this Shaver 250 is 54" deep on the inside, how long should I make the wood when I cut it down to size? 2'? 3'? 4'? And do I split it or leave it whole? It will be 2 year seasoned hardwood.
I'm sure I'll think of another couple questions regarding this as the day goes on, and I will come back and add to this post if that happens.
As usual, I thank you in advance.
Lugnut
aka: jerry
11
Shaver Furnace / Cough..cough..gasp..gasp...choke..choke
« on: December 18, 2011, 07:54:09 PM »
Okay, new topic from this "still a newbie"...Member Church and I had quite a nice conversation Friday evening and Church came up with an idea and a query. Seems that we Shaver owners have this large blower motor of 75 cfm on the rear of our furnaces...yet we're trying to stifle the air that is rushing in to the rear of the furnace and under the actual wood/coal. Why on earth are we fighting the system? Larger motor with a flippy flap that doesn't flip, but does flop.
My neighbor has a Central boiler (choke) and Dan tells me that his OWB does NOT have an electric blower...the draft is "natural"...not electrically driven.
So, in our discussion of this issue with Church, brings me to this question...why can't we Shaver owners disconnect the wiring to the blower, yet NOT the solenoid and allow the "natural" draft to work in conjunction with the solenoid?
Any issues that we might be missing here?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On another note, I tried choking down my existing blower with a strip of aluminum foil tape, but it seems that for some reason the solenoid never shut down and allowed the furnace to "idle"...any thoughts here as well? I'm STILL trying to dial that darn solenoid in. I have an idea and will attempt it sometime this week, but not until I purchase another solenoid....just in case I burn this one out.
I will step out of the room now and check the bulletin board later for any responses.
Lugnut
aka: Jerry
My neighbor has a Central boiler (choke) and Dan tells me that his OWB does NOT have an electric blower...the draft is "natural"...not electrically driven.
So, in our discussion of this issue with Church, brings me to this question...why can't we Shaver owners disconnect the wiring to the blower, yet NOT the solenoid and allow the "natural" draft to work in conjunction with the solenoid?
Any issues that we might be missing here?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On another note, I tried choking down my existing blower with a strip of aluminum foil tape, but it seems that for some reason the solenoid never shut down and allowed the furnace to "idle"...any thoughts here as well? I'm STILL trying to dial that darn solenoid in. I have an idea and will attempt it sometime this week, but not until I purchase another solenoid....just in case I burn this one out.
I will step out of the room now and check the bulletin board later for any responses.
Lugnut
aka: Jerry
12
Shaver Furnace / A cap that I cannot hang on to my Shaver optional equipment cap holder...
« on: December 11, 2011, 08:32:37 PM » sorry guys, but I just feel the need to make light of my shaver's little flaws. So while watching my light show Tuesday night...the sparks shooting from the chimney, I got to wondering about the "spark arrester' I "used" to have on the chimney, but removed because it "attracts" creosote fast than i can say Christmas ornaments....So, how about this...if I cut off that expanded steel that is wrapped and welded onto the cap thingy...it "should" serve two purposes: 1) keep rain out of the flue; 2) keep the sparks within the confines of the furnace and NOT out on the dry leaves in my woods?
Again I thank you in advance.
Lugnut
13
Shaver Furnace / Hat/coat hanger...a Shaver option?
« on: December 11, 2011, 08:54:46 AM »
Okay, all ye owners of these wonderful Shaver furnaces, did y'all opt for the hat/coat hanger on the front outside of your furnace? Apparently I did and it works as it should. Holds my hat and coat just fine.
Okay, now that I have everyone's attention. Apparently I'm missing something here. While I do understand the principle of a "shut-off" valve, maybe Shaver does it differently. Yesterday, I wanted to make sure my water level was up in the furnace; I went down to the lower level and opened up the fill valve....came out the back door and heard the water running into the bucket. "What's this I asked myself? How can this be?" The valve on the front of the furnace reads "OFF", yet the water is coming out as though it is "ON". I turned the valve to "ON" thinking maybe some 4 yr. old kid plumbed it basackwards...and the water still cometh....
So, what am I missing here??? Perhaps the valve is just that, a coat/hat hook? When I go to "OPEN" the valve, like many do to check the water level...it can b e open for 30 minutes and NOTHING comes out!
And the saga continues.......Guess I'll be calling my favorite buddy again at Shaver...but will wait until I read back from you folks.
Lugnut
Okay, now that I have everyone's attention. Apparently I'm missing something here. While I do understand the principle of a "shut-off" valve, maybe Shaver does it differently. Yesterday, I wanted to make sure my water level was up in the furnace; I went down to the lower level and opened up the fill valve....came out the back door and heard the water running into the bucket. "What's this I asked myself? How can this be?" The valve on the front of the furnace reads "OFF", yet the water is coming out as though it is "ON". I turned the valve to "ON" thinking maybe some 4 yr. old kid plumbed it basackwards...and the water still cometh....
So, what am I missing here??? Perhaps the valve is just that, a coat/hat hook? When I go to "OPEN" the valve, like many do to check the water level...it can b e open for 30 minutes and NOTHING comes out!
And the saga continues.......Guess I'll be calling my favorite buddy again at Shaver...but will wait until I read back from you folks.
Lugnut
14
Shaver Furnace / SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!
« on: December 06, 2011, 06:35:00 PM »Well I got that darn auto damper on this afternoon. Sure wish the hot tub were filled and up/running, definitely could use it tonight. Felt like a contortionist at the rear of the furnace. Bend here, bend there...sit on the butt, kneel down. Tough to do with two fake knees but I managed. Why isn't there a smiley for stiff and sore?
On the flange that goes into the rear of the furnace, I re-drilled the holes so that I could mount the damper where it is facing "up"..."turned the blower motor so that the fan is pointing up"...no room with the pipes for the damper to mount as per "normal...if there really is anything normal with this unit."
Wow...what a huge difference between that 75 cfm compared to the baby 50 cfm. I tried the switch for the blower several times and it works good..I even went down stairs to make certain I didn't pop a circuit breaker. All is damn GOOD!
However, I had the bejesus scared out of me this evening when the sparks began to fly. My furnace is about 50' form the woods surrounding my house. I watched them go up into the air and fall down close to the furnace...which was fine. then I got another "rush" of sparks and I began to be a bit concerned...I was out raking frozen leaves away from the unit. The immediate area is mostly dirt with some leaves just lying around. So I quick, grabbed the spark arrester and put it on, well that was NOT a good idea as I began to watch the liquid creosote dripping down the stack.
So I was watching sparks and crud blow out of the chimney, now my question to all your wise men out here..do I have to go outside and babysit my 250 tonight or is the fireworks over? I did go up and stick a long rake handle down the stack....and yes, the fan had shut itself off and the stack felt clean. Are my fireworks over now? My shop with truck, hot rod, tools etc are about 75' for the furnace and the barn shed is about 30'. I had to locate the furnace where it is because there was no other choices, short of not buying it.
Do I maybe try to run a brush through the stack tomorrow or just leave it be? Speaking of brush-a-brush-a, what is the preferred way to run a brush...without a fire or with a fire?
Bear with me guys, it took a long while for me to reach this point and I'm beginning to feel good about everything, except for the sparks.
The temp on the "stand-by" Shave t-stat is just at 150*. I "might" attempt to install the Ranco tomorrow. 17* out now, and I don't think it's going to even get to 208 tomorrow.
Okay, I'm done now...will hang out and see what kind of responses I get....no bag tonight.
Lugnut
15
Shaver Furnace / Selling creosote......
« on: December 03, 2011, 09:57:19 AM »
So I went out just a little bit ago and checked on the fire, same as yesterday and the days prior. Few chunks of wood left and hot coals, but here we have the darn smoke coming out of the door gaskets again. ARGH!!!!!! Up I go on the ladder with my fiberglass rod and poke up and down in the flue. Down from the ladder...still smoking. Grab the garden rake...up the ladder I go again and drop the handle of the garden rake into the flue...."ka thunk!" I hit creosote. Thus the reason for the smoke around the door gaskets. Did I mention that I got a larger blower motor and the damper will get attached to it this afternoon?
I knocked the creosote back into the firebox and we're breathing again, but I'm sure only for a little while. Think I'll do some w/s time this morning and take a ride to Fleet Farm or Menards.
And the saga continues..........
Lugnut
I knocked the creosote back into the firebox and we're breathing again, but I'm sure only for a little while. Think I'll do some w/s time this morning and take a ride to Fleet Farm or Menards.
And the saga continues..........
Lugnut