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1
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: December 08, 2021, 06:09:50 AM »
Hi Matt
Sorry, missed your last. Don't know if it's sub-modules are repairable individually. CB doesn't offer the option of buying either/or. If I had your situation, I'd cannibalize one and try to make the other complete.
I see no-one is posting here, it's all on fB for sure. Oh well, guess this forum had it's day. It sure saved my bacon a few times as a learner, from what I've seen fB is far more chaotic for that sort of thing.
B
Sorry, missed your last. Don't know if it's sub-modules are repairable individually. CB doesn't offer the option of buying either/or. If I had your situation, I'd cannibalize one and try to make the other complete.
I see no-one is posting here, it's all on fB for sure. Oh well, guess this forum had it's day. It sure saved my bacon a few times as a learner, from what I've seen fB is far more chaotic for that sort of thing.
B
2
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 02, 2021, 06:39:46 AM »
Not just the screen - there are specific analog input circuits on the controller board that handle the TC inputs. I'm an electronics tech; I know that they're most likely the damaged components, but without a schematic even I can't diagnose and repair the board. So, I had to purchase an entire control module; comes with screen, etc. But it's a dead-easy swapout.
North Star is our "local" (40 miles away) Central Boiler representative. They had the unit on the shelf, so I was up and running 3 hours after visiting them to pick it up. Since the weather wasn't terribly cold, they weren't about to drive it to me; I suspect if it had been -30, they might have; they were very helpful.
I didn't receive anything from you, but then I suspect I don't have email contact enabled in the user preferences. Sorry about that.
North Star is our "local" (40 miles away) Central Boiler representative. They had the unit on the shelf, so I was up and running 3 hours after visiting them to pick it up. Since the weather wasn't terribly cold, they weren't about to drive it to me; I suspect if it had been -30, they might have; they were very helpful.
I didn't receive anything from you, but then I suspect I don't have email contact enabled in the user preferences. Sorry about that.
3
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 01, 2021, 04:53:37 PM »
And, by the way, this place is a ghost town. I'm thinking everyone's on Facebook. Too bad. Guess I'll check in occasionally, but it seems pointless.
4
Central Boiler / Re: Central boiler e-classic 1450 hi 1 message!!!
« on: November 01, 2021, 04:44:37 PM »
Matt
Go back 3 pages of messages to November 9, 2018 - I had a similar experience with my 1450 after a lightning strike. Both TC inputs, reaction and water, were fried. Had to change out the controller. There's some good info in that thread about how your furnace operates in this case.
Blair
Go back 3 pages of messages to November 9, 2018 - I had a similar experience with my 1450 after a lightning strike. Both TC inputs, reaction and water, were fried. Had to change out the controller. There's some good info in that thread about how your furnace operates in this case.
Blair
5
Central Boiler / Re: Crazy - magic heat?
« on: February 21, 2021, 05:48:16 AM »
I guess I'd buy that, if it was a bit more random, but I don't have any other explanation. Thanks for replying, anyway. This forum is dead!
6
Central Boiler / Crazy - magic heat?
« on: February 20, 2021, 09:34:50 AM »
Okay. So everything's running fine, except every now and then, we get a water temperature rise. This morning, we went from 190 to 193, an hour after the last warmup (see attached chart). I'd attribute it to a stuck primary valve, but it's not stuck, and the rise doesn't happen right after a pulse (which is what happens when the valve does stick, as I've seen it happen). Instead, this time it was 6 minutes after the pulse, AND happened in about 2 minutes. It's like we've suddenly put heat back into the loop from the house. Patently impossible, but there it is.
Anyone seen this, and figured it out? Is my pump failing (and how would that cause this?) Is there something else going on with the primary or secondary solenoids? I can't think of anything else that would cause this.
Anyone seen this, and figured it out? Is my pump failing (and how would that cause this?) Is there something else going on with the primary or secondary solenoids? I can't think of anything else that would cause this.
7
Central Boiler / Re: Extra parts; handy
« on: January 17, 2021, 03:14:27 PM »
Real question has to be, are those fans that can't be oiled a better quality, or are we just going to have to have one on hand, because oiling a fan and resurrecting it isn't an option any more? I'd love to think that a new fan would last longer than the rest of the furnace...
8
Central Boiler / Re: Server failure?
« on: January 11, 2021, 06:29:34 AM »
Still unstable, getting a server error again now. Oh well, still have a furnace, so no crisis. Back to my coffee.
9
Central Boiler / Re: Server failure?
« on: January 11, 2021, 06:19:12 AM »
whoops, posted that, and it looks like I just got three data points from the last 7 minutes; waiting now to see if things stabilize.
10
Central Boiler / Server failure?
« on: January 11, 2021, 06:17:01 AM »
Hey Everyone,
We've rebooted furnace, router, et. al., with no solution. Data from our Firestar has been erratic for the last couple of days, lots of evidently corrupted data points, long gaps, etc. This morning, I get only a 5-second burst of data around 5:10 AM when I call for a 4-hour history. Is there a problem at their end? Saw some suggestions of that on Facebook, but hey, that's Facebook...
smithbr
We've rebooted furnace, router, et. al., with no solution. Data from our Firestar has been erratic for the last couple of days, lots of evidently corrupted data points, long gaps, etc. This morning, I get only a 5-second burst of data around 5:10 AM when I call for a 4-hour history. Is there a problem at their end? Saw some suggestions of that on Facebook, but hey, that's Facebook...
smithbr
11
Central Boiler / Re: E1450 Blower Motor Replacement
« on: March 03, 2020, 09:01:39 AM »
"That fan looks like a regular Dayton 1TDP7 which is all over eBay. But I could be wrong."
Has anyone verified that this model is compatible? I had to finger-start my blower this fall, though it's run fine since then, so I think I'd be best to lay one in for the next 'event', though my unit is only 4+ years old.
Has anyone verified that this model is compatible? I had to finger-start my blower this fall, though it's run fine since then, so I think I'd be best to lay one in for the next 'event', though my unit is only 4+ years old.
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: man this forum has dropped off.....
« on: January 10, 2019, 12:09:50 PM »
Facebook
Rant on
Yep. Between the drama queens ("the sky is falling" - again? That's three times - today!), the petting zoos/pity parties, and all the LAME folk, I just can't stand it. "waaahh, I had to wait four hours at the hospital to get my finger stitched (because I'm an idiot), don't know why they had to take the three heart attacks first", followed by 47 reply postings about how unfair it is, another 20 talking about all the lazy hospital staff, etc. etc. etc. Sheesh. The only time it was marginally useful this summer was when we had a marauding bear in the neighborhood, and even then it's only useful if people are already interconnected.
As for the LAMEs, they never change. "Look At ME, how wonderful I am" ad nauseam. I really don't care about the 25 pictures of you biking to work this morning. To me, it's just "Look at me, how lonely I am, I have to try and elicit votes on a Facebook page to build up my ego". One friend in particular never fails to ask us when we see him why we don't reply to his postings. He's been doing this for five years. DOH! Per my mother, if you don't have anything nice to say...
rant off.
I'll stay here, thanks. Kudos to the moderators.
Blair
Rant on
Yep. Between the drama queens ("the sky is falling" - again? That's three times - today!), the petting zoos/pity parties, and all the LAME folk, I just can't stand it. "waaahh, I had to wait four hours at the hospital to get my finger stitched (because I'm an idiot), don't know why they had to take the three heart attacks first", followed by 47 reply postings about how unfair it is, another 20 talking about all the lazy hospital staff, etc. etc. etc. Sheesh. The only time it was marginally useful this summer was when we had a marauding bear in the neighborhood, and even then it's only useful if people are already interconnected.
As for the LAMEs, they never change. "Look At ME, how wonderful I am" ad nauseam. I really don't care about the 25 pictures of you biking to work this morning. To me, it's just "Look at me, how lonely I am, I have to try and elicit votes on a Facebook page to build up my ego". One friend in particular never fails to ask us when we see him why we don't reply to his postings. He's been doing this for five years. DOH! Per my mother, if you don't have anything nice to say...
rant off.
I'll stay here, thanks. Kudos to the moderators.
Blair
13
Electronics / Re: Turn off blower
« on: December 13, 2018, 06:03:26 AM »
Well, what you want is a temperature switch that opens at around 165, I guess. (depends on your particular furnace parameters). Place that so it senses the water temperature leaving the furnace (not your return water). You may need a lower temperature, it will depend on how accurately you can sense the true water temperature. If I had to do this, I might look for an adjustable switch, like the one on a hot water tank). Wire it in series with the power to the blower. Make sure you put in an override switch to keep it going when you want to restart the fire.
Of course, you really shouldn't run the water below 150-160, they say, due to increased condensation. I'm guessing that if you're not burning anything, there isn't much water vapour around, but I could be wrong.
If I did this, going by my water temperature swings, the blower will run for more than half of that one hour period before it shuts off at 165.
Even though my furnace starts demand at 175, if all my heat loads are sucking at the same time, water temperature gets close to 170 before the fire takes over, so I couldn't cut out the fan much higher than 165. So there's not a lot of savings to be had. But your situation may be different.
There may be good reasons for not doing this, I'll think about it.
Of course, you really shouldn't run the water below 150-160, they say, due to increased condensation. I'm guessing that if you're not burning anything, there isn't much water vapour around, but I could be wrong.
If I did this, going by my water temperature swings, the blower will run for more than half of that one hour period before it shuts off at 165.
Even though my furnace starts demand at 175, if all my heat loads are sucking at the same time, water temperature gets close to 170 before the fire takes over, so I couldn't cut out the fan much higher than 165. So there's not a lot of savings to be had. But your situation may be different.
There may be good reasons for not doing this, I'll think about it.
14
Central Boiler / Re: E classic 1450 question
« on: December 10, 2018, 06:41:15 PM »
I think they're also a lame attempt to destabilize the wood so it doesn't arch as often. If so, it was wasted effort. I can pile it right, and not arch, or I can pile it wrong, and arch most of the time. The 1450 may actually just be too narrow for the size of wood I prefer to split. I'm having to split it smaller than i like to prevent it arching.
Just my two cents.
Blair
Just my two cents.
Blair
15
Central Boiler / Re: Loosing water mystery
« on: December 10, 2018, 07:18:29 AM »
If you do not see any steam coming from the vent cap at the end of each warmup cycle (Do you? Are you sure it's not there? Sounds like you've got a lot of exposed surface if you're hearing boiling when you refill it), then I'd have to think you've got a plumbing leak somewhere. (Can't be in a hot water heater sideleg, or you'd be losing water pressure and overfilling the furnace, due to the pressure differential.) Since you're not seeing anything in the house (Are you? Have you checked thoroughly?), it would have to be either within your furnace, or in your underground line. If within the furnace, I'd suspect a leak into the firebox, where it's being vaporized and sent up the chimney, because with the volumes you're describing, you should see water/ice draining onto the ground otherwise. An in-ground leak would be harder to locate - others may have suggestions there. For a start, if you have snow on the ground, I'd look for any spot where the snow is disappearing, or quite thin (similar to the snow over most septic tanks, where heat loss from domestic water and decomposition keeps the ground thawed all winter, if the tank is working properly).
With my system mostly set to run at 185 degrees, I've lost about 10 litres(just under 3 US gallons) in 3 years of operation, and most of that happened when I had an air leak at the primary solenoid (hanging up), resulting in tank boiling after warmups).
To recap, water loss possibilities:
- boiling it off (most likely)
- losing it in house (easy to check, not likely without evidence)
- losing it in furnace due to crack or pinhole (hard to detect, unless you cool down and look for dribbles in the firebox, or heat exchanger)
- losing it in ground (hard to check, painful to fix)
If you do have a leak somewhere, I have to ask - what's your water PH? Have you tested regularly? Or is this a corrosion result?
Other possibilities may exist, depending on your system particulars.
Blair
(apologies, most of this is obvious, but it's good to cover all the bases).
With my system mostly set to run at 185 degrees, I've lost about 10 litres(just under 3 US gallons) in 3 years of operation, and most of that happened when I had an air leak at the primary solenoid (hanging up), resulting in tank boiling after warmups).
To recap, water loss possibilities:
- boiling it off (most likely)
- losing it in house (easy to check, not likely without evidence)
- losing it in furnace due to crack or pinhole (hard to detect, unless you cool down and look for dribbles in the firebox, or heat exchanger)
- losing it in ground (hard to check, painful to fix)
If you do have a leak somewhere, I have to ask - what's your water PH? Have you tested regularly? Or is this a corrosion result?
Other possibilities may exist, depending on your system particulars.
Blair
(apologies, most of this is obvious, but it's good to cover all the bases).