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[Rob 165]

I have a 165 Shaver that I bought in December of 2007 and first fired it in january 2008.  This thing has been a huge nightmare.  The first winter I dealt with steam and lots of it.  I would use RVT silicone- $10.00 a tube and seal the cover on the top rear, but it would always develop pin holes and steam, soaking my insulation.  My neighbor also bought a 250 at the same time and had the same problems.  We fixed them in Oct. of 2008, by welding "C channel" around three sides of the opening and a piece of angle across the back.  We then tapped and drilled 1/4 holes in  the top of the "C Channel" to hold down a quarter inch plate to cover the top rear.  This worked awesome.  We also welded three nipples into the top back of the stove and connected the domestic hot water coils to them.  Now even if we boil water, there's no steam.  I called Ben at Shaver's and told him that we had less than $50.00 in this modification, but he wasn't impressed. 
This year, we got rid of the stupid and inaccurate thermo disc and added Honeywell Aquastats.  What a difference.  I simply drilled a hole through the rear of the stove where the thermo disc was, welded in a 1/2 pipe nipple and screwed on a 1/2 collar.  Then I added the immersion well and mounted the Honeywell.  This is the way this stove should have been built.
My next area to modify will be the blower fan.  I just ordered a fan for a Hardy Stove and intend put a draft adjustment on the metal "swinging" door and actuate it with a solenoid.  This should greatly increase my recovery time.
As for insulation, I added all the fiberglass insulation I can to the top and I am considering spraying the "Great Stuff" under the stove, but I'm concerned about condensation.  Any ideas.  Sorry fothe long post, I just hope this helps other who might have bought this terrible stove.

[gandgracing]

You will like the solenoid on the fan.  No more steam and no more water loss.  The thermastat modification will be something I will look into for next year.  Would be nice to set a high temp and low temp for the fan to kick on.  Another mod. to look into is running your cold return lines to the front of the stove thru that plate in the back.  I had many problems with my 165 and ended up with a 250 that I still did the mods. to.  (Fan and return lines as well as building my wood shed around the stove).  Last night was around 18* and 35* during the day and it went 24 hrs.  Filled it up at 10pm(stuffed it full) and filled it up the next night and the water was still at 160* where I have it set.  Dont forget to put some batting insulation in the door.  Really works.  And I haven't added any more insulation except for the door.  I plan to insulate the bottom sometime.

[gandgracing]

Anyway you could take some pictures of the thermostat mounted?

[willieG]

on my home built stove i used a 'dry well" aquastat, it has worked perfectly.

[Rob 165]

I will try to take a picture of my aquastat tonight.  I tried the hardy fan and solenoid, but didn't like it.  I used a piece of chain and a turnbuckle to connect the two, but I never could really get it dialed in.  The 100 cfm fan on the Hardy was just to much.  It moved the air to fast and blew the heat out of my stove.  I put the flapper assembly on my old fan and still didn't like it. 
But I have to admit that I have had ZERO problems with my stove this year, as the Honeywell Aquastat has cured my problems.  I strongly recommend doing this.  I have lost zero water and have not boiled my water at all.

[gandgracing]

My 165 had a 50cfm fan and the 250 stove has a 75cfm.  I just put a hinge on the won it came with and man it works great.  I just used a piece of wire.  It only opens the door about 2 in.