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Messages - shepherd boy

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331
Scott is still in business but just staying out of view for a little. He's had a hard row to hoe but he's ok and will probably be back.

332
HeatMaster / Re: Front or back of box?
« on: December 06, 2015, 04:59:09 AM »
If you have a hot burn in front continually you could warp inside door heat shield which is ok to a point. But it could burn a spot in the door inside heat shield. If this happens it is easy to plate with a 1/8 plate but keep main burn back away from door may save your door. MF3000 and MF5000 doors are closer to the grate than Mf10000 and C series and are more prone to inside heat shield warp. But that is what it is there for ,to take the heat off the front of the door and you will rarely see a door warp.So I would suggest to keep the fire back a little if you can. Burn coal towards the rear.

333
Electronics / Re: Taco 007 pump problem?
« on: December 05, 2015, 06:58:42 AM »
With 100ft. piping you need a a pump with more head than a 007. head means more than gpm in your situation. 008 or NRF22 or GFS15-42 are all better head and low amp draw pumps.

334
Sq. ft. on sizing an outdoor stove doesn't make much sense to me unless you qualify it. Like r19 walls, r30 ceiling, good windows, in Florida or Maine? You can bet a company selling cheap furnaces and claiming they are the best will also over rate them. Their best tool to sales is a website that sucks you in and big sq. ft. ratings helps. There are different reasons for large water capacities. Some units are made with high recovery rates and tight draft controls which operate more like an oil or gas furnace which use very little water. Others need to store heat or need longer burn times like gassers. Some units were built with manuel draft which needed lots of water to even out btu draws in a given period of time. Some have solar added which needs to store lots of energy. Constant run lower amp pumps with larger piping create a more even temp in the boiler, less hot-cold spots, and less need for high water volumes.

while I was typing slim as reading my mind . Good post Slim.

335
HeatMaster / Re: Longer burn times from a MF5000
« on: December 01, 2015, 03:21:03 AM »
Wondering what your heat load was before you added the outdoor furnace? like gallons of oil or gas used or amount of electric etc. would give a idea of heat demand. But like Slim noted if you are losing heat before it gets to the house it will increase load. A standard MF under heavy load will use wood. An E or C series really makes a difference when put under heavy load.

336
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: leaking out the overflow
« on: November 30, 2015, 05:38:29 PM »
I have seen several plate heat exchangers leak through. I would first check the stove fill ball valve, if it is not that it got to be the exchanger.

337
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 26, 2015, 11:01:19 AM »
Your right it is a good feature., But any time you make a change in design you want a way to back up if it doesn't work out the best in every situation, so it was made removable.I have never seen my C375 do this, but I do plan to burn some coal at some point and may have to change it.

338
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 26, 2015, 08:55:20 AM »
A note here on c model gas 'blows'. There is an air vent right under the door in the later models. This gives a little top air to burn off wood or coal gas. What happens is the fire box is getting oxygen and gas mixture before the fire ignites the coals on the bottom.If the coal ash bed is too tight for good air flow it ignites top gas as a delay action. On bottom air only furnaces oxygen is being used up in the coal bed and not enough is left to explode the gas. Normal burn with a hot coal bed top air ignites gasses on top for a more efficient burn. If this is a ongoing  problem, wood or coal burning, the top air channel is removable, lift up, and cover the port with a small piece of flat steel. Now you are back to a normal up drafter. There is a lot of difference in fuel, wood or coal,as to how much gas is on top end of firebox and load on stove and operator differences all factor in. Try a combination that your situation.

339
HeatMaster / Re: Question on the G400
« on: November 19, 2015, 12:16:04 PM »
Schoppy- running without the lower "horseshoe brick" is fine provided you leave some ash covering the floor of the lower reburn chamber for the flame to hit. Ash is an excellent insulator. It'll smoke a bit more because it doesn't mix as well but you won't damage anything. It's all surrounded by water and the brick just reflects the heat in and forces it to mix. My son's fatherinlaw ran a early model G100 for several months without a horseshoe brick and it was fine. Just not as clean of a burn.
Interestingly the CB Edge models don't have brick down there but their EPA test was dirtier.

340
Plumbing / Re: sidearm install.hot water backing into cold water lines
« on: November 18, 2015, 05:43:04 PM »
could i just add a check valve on the cold water line.also the cold water enters the bottom not from the top.
Be careful with check valves on cold side hot water heaters. As water heats it expands. Heard of one water heater that blew up and knocked out a basement wall. Had a sidearm on. Need a way to let the water expand.

341
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 12, 2015, 11:13:23 AM »
Had someone logging about a mile from my house last winter and was burning log buts, ends and pieces straight off the stump no problem. However sap was down and it seems to do better when there is a draw on furnace. Blower stays on more, fire is hotter.  burning half green scrap lumber from a mill close by now. Nothing like free. It works.

342
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 12, 2015, 08:27:20 AM »
From standard MF, not e series, to c series at least 25% less, Standard MF to G series gasser 50% less but no green wood. My observation , no official test.

343
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 11, 2015, 06:32:03 PM »
You do want a coal bed and some ash around the sides, it helps keep the fire from going out in warmer weather. just needs to get air at one hole. That stove with the triple pass is designed to keep static pressure on the firebox. It will keep the bypass clean so it must get air from the bottom. You should love it - the c series uses less wood than any that I have tried save a gasser.

344
HeatMaster / Re: Water level gauge
« on: November 11, 2015, 05:06:36 PM »
Have seen this happen. Like a backdraft, if there is a lot of ash on the top of grates and the fan comes on and only a small amount of air comes in the firebox it will slowly build oxygen untill wood gas explodes.  If the float is all the way up a little burp from the flash will send it out the top. keep an air hole open so you get a full shot of air and quick flame when fan comes on. also keep float about halfway down when hot so there is a air space in the top of tank.

345
Plumbing / Re: 1" to 3/4" at DHW heat exchanger
« on: October 12, 2015, 02:32:13 PM »
We have used 30 plate heat exchangers with 3/4 male pipe thread for dhw. Use a 3/4 brass coupling and a 3/4 x 1" mpt x pex adapter on the stove side. You will notice the opening in the flat plate and the opening in the male adapter is nearly the same size. This is assuming you are using standard pex.

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