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2
HeatMaster / Re: Garage Heat Design?
« on: May 18, 2016, 09:11:19 PM »
That's part of the question. I have read 2" foam and have no issue with that.
Specifically:
1. How far apart to put pex runs
2. Manifold configuration?
3. How to get heat to runs?
4. Additional pump necessary? stove 100' away.
Specifically:
1. How far apart to put pex runs
2. Manifold configuration?
3. How to get heat to runs?
4. Additional pump necessary? stove 100' away.
3
HeatMaster / Garage Heat Design?
« on: May 17, 2016, 10:11:56 PM »Building a 30 x 40 garage/workshop and am wanting to put radiant heat in the floor from the Heatmaster. Bought it plenty big for the task but need designs for the plumbing.
Garage will be 2 car brick in construction, 2 x 6 walls, with 6/12 pitch roof with storage trusses. Walls and ceilings will be insulated well.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Vince
4
Advanced Plumbing / Design for Garage Floor
« on: May 17, 2016, 05:47:50 PM »
Building a 30 x 40 garage/workshop and am wanting to put radiant heat in the floor from the Heatmaster. Bought it plenty big for the task but need designs for the plumbing.
Garage will be 2 car brick in construction, 2 x 6 walls, with 6/12 pitch roof with storage trusses. Walls and ceilings will be insulated well.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Vince
Garage will be 2 car brick in construction, 2 x 6 walls, with 6/12 pitch roof with storage trusses. Walls and ceilings will be insulated well.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Vince
5
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster Cleanout Procedure
« on: May 15, 2015, 08:36:25 PM »Suzukidad, Please PM me your address and name or call the office 1-877-325-9792 and speak to Wally or Ryan so we can send you a new cleaning tool shaped for your 5000, you more than likely got the wrong one accidentally, sorry for the mix up,also keep in mind that the heat transfer pass in the top of the boiler firebox does slide out to remove for extra cleaning if needed.
As you push the tool backwards the handle becomes wedged against the top of the filler door and the bottom of the transfer pass while the blade is wedged against the top chute... It is kind of hard to explain. I bent the handle 4-5 times in a slight C shape to get further back but it cannot reach the bottom to pull the ash out. PM sent.
6
HeatMaster / Re: Sweating stove
« on: May 13, 2015, 07:52:46 PM »
Just my personal experience here so please don't shoot me if it seems odd.
We got a MF5000e last year. Located in Ohio the house is a brick 2800sq ft with dhw. We started the stove and quickly learned that it only took between 4-7 pieces of wood to last 12 hours depending on the temps (burning cherry and oak pieces of 8-10" dia) This proved more efficient than "filling" the stove and seemed to save wood. The stove started dripping water out of the ash door almost immediately. I work in the tech support business for Fujifilm and started a K-T problem solving sequence-try to identify the root cause and eliminate it. Finding the root cause is difficult when you are not a stove tech so experimenting was the next step.
It was thought that the wood was too wet and the water was condensation. We were burning wood that was down for 2 years but only cut and split for 6 months. We had done some remodeling and had a bunch of scrap wood so the test was to burn 40 year old dry 2x4 and 2x6 pine for 3 days with no "seasoned wood". Issue remained- Wet wood not the cause.
The air intake was changed from 100% to 20% in 2-3 day increments-no significant change.
I had been burning wood since the 70's and thought this should be easy but grasping for straws wasn't getting anywhere so I started reading and researching.
The on/off point was changed to higher and lower temps for 2/3 days at each test. 160-170, 170-180, 175-185. 180-185. The thought was that the stove idled too long at too low of an internal temp and the air leaks were exaggerated. Trying to keep the stove needing heat was the goal. lower temp would require that the fan on my furnace would run longer to heat the house to the same temp. This would cause the stove to run more frequently and also not go out. A 5 degree differential might accomplish the same thing. All offered no improvement.
Research suggested air leak- Cold moist air coming in around rope gaskets could meet hot dry air and condense at point of contact. Gaskets were repositioned and doors and latches readjusted to minimize air leaks. (The ash door gasket gets pushed to the side due to the ash pan resting on the bottom of the channel that it rests on. It should be centered better but that would take some redesigning). This appeared to provide some relief however never completely stopped the phenomenon.
As this experimenting went on the stove started going out during the day after about 2 months of working fine. I was ready to pull the stove out! My dealer was great to work with and called me about every other day to check on my progress. He offered to come out and check it out but I declined. Stubborn...Proud....Stupid....lol. Our house is pretty well insulated and didn't really need too much help maintaining heat. One of the main symptoms was that when we opened the door to check or fill the stove there was no pile of coals in the fire box. All that was left were the pieces of charred wood. On top of that the ash pan was filled with 1/4" to 1/2" chunks of charcoal-no ash. The thought was that the fan was blowing the fire out and I left the ash pan full for longer periods and it improved the fire going out but still had water dripping out of the ash pan. Working with my dealer and Woodmaster we checked other items that offered no help to the sweating but improved the fire going out some.
About this time it got to -20F outside and I was going to be gone for the week leaving my 110# wife to tend the stove. We decided to forget about saving wood and had her fill the stove as full as she could get it so that it wouldn't go out on her. After a week of doing this I returned home to find about 6-8" of coals in the bottom of the fire box. On top of that the ash pan was only 1/4 full after a full week of heavy burning. Hmmmm. We then went back to putting just enough wood to maintain a 12 hour burn and keep the same amount of coals in the fire box. Back to 6-8 medium pieces of wood per load and the coals stayed and the dripping stopped and never came back. This easily lasted 12+ hours.
Through all this a guy looks at the input and the results while taking in subtle clues along the way that may go unnoticed if not paying attention. Through this all I can do is speculate what was the cause and repair. It appears that our lack of need for heat caused the stove to run infrequently. When it would burn it would do so feverishly and the water temp would recover quickly and thus no coals/ash generated. On top of that, our desire to save wood led to fewer pieces of wood in the box from which to burn. When the fan would come on it appeared to blow all the particles that might accumulate in the box down into the ash pan. I never touch the shaker grates. While all this happened the stove was leaking water from the ash pan at up to a cup a day filling a 5 gallon tub 1/2 full of water in a week. Once the firebox was full of coals and stayed that way, the water stopped even though we used wood that I know was wetter than previously used wood.
I know what stopped the issue, however don't know the root cause. Were the coals insulating the doors and gaskets from the air leaks? I'll probably never know but when I fire it up in the fall it'll burn like a mad man until I get a good bed of coals-that's one thing for sure.
We got a MF5000e last year. Located in Ohio the house is a brick 2800sq ft with dhw. We started the stove and quickly learned that it only took between 4-7 pieces of wood to last 12 hours depending on the temps (burning cherry and oak pieces of 8-10" dia) This proved more efficient than "filling" the stove and seemed to save wood. The stove started dripping water out of the ash door almost immediately. I work in the tech support business for Fujifilm and started a K-T problem solving sequence-try to identify the root cause and eliminate it. Finding the root cause is difficult when you are not a stove tech so experimenting was the next step.
It was thought that the wood was too wet and the water was condensation. We were burning wood that was down for 2 years but only cut and split for 6 months. We had done some remodeling and had a bunch of scrap wood so the test was to burn 40 year old dry 2x4 and 2x6 pine for 3 days with no "seasoned wood". Issue remained- Wet wood not the cause.
The air intake was changed from 100% to 20% in 2-3 day increments-no significant change.
I had been burning wood since the 70's and thought this should be easy but grasping for straws wasn't getting anywhere so I started reading and researching.
The on/off point was changed to higher and lower temps for 2/3 days at each test. 160-170, 170-180, 175-185. 180-185. The thought was that the stove idled too long at too low of an internal temp and the air leaks were exaggerated. Trying to keep the stove needing heat was the goal. lower temp would require that the fan on my furnace would run longer to heat the house to the same temp. This would cause the stove to run more frequently and also not go out. A 5 degree differential might accomplish the same thing. All offered no improvement.
Research suggested air leak- Cold moist air coming in around rope gaskets could meet hot dry air and condense at point of contact. Gaskets were repositioned and doors and latches readjusted to minimize air leaks. (The ash door gasket gets pushed to the side due to the ash pan resting on the bottom of the channel that it rests on. It should be centered better but that would take some redesigning). This appeared to provide some relief however never completely stopped the phenomenon.
As this experimenting went on the stove started going out during the day after about 2 months of working fine. I was ready to pull the stove out! My dealer was great to work with and called me about every other day to check on my progress. He offered to come out and check it out but I declined. Stubborn...Proud....Stupid....lol. Our house is pretty well insulated and didn't really need too much help maintaining heat. One of the main symptoms was that when we opened the door to check or fill the stove there was no pile of coals in the fire box. All that was left were the pieces of charred wood. On top of that the ash pan was filled with 1/4" to 1/2" chunks of charcoal-no ash. The thought was that the fan was blowing the fire out and I left the ash pan full for longer periods and it improved the fire going out but still had water dripping out of the ash pan. Working with my dealer and Woodmaster we checked other items that offered no help to the sweating but improved the fire going out some.
About this time it got to -20F outside and I was going to be gone for the week leaving my 110# wife to tend the stove. We decided to forget about saving wood and had her fill the stove as full as she could get it so that it wouldn't go out on her. After a week of doing this I returned home to find about 6-8" of coals in the bottom of the fire box. On top of that the ash pan was only 1/4 full after a full week of heavy burning. Hmmmm. We then went back to putting just enough wood to maintain a 12 hour burn and keep the same amount of coals in the fire box. Back to 6-8 medium pieces of wood per load and the coals stayed and the dripping stopped and never came back. This easily lasted 12+ hours.
Through all this a guy looks at the input and the results while taking in subtle clues along the way that may go unnoticed if not paying attention. Through this all I can do is speculate what was the cause and repair. It appears that our lack of need for heat caused the stove to run infrequently. When it would burn it would do so feverishly and the water temp would recover quickly and thus no coals/ash generated. On top of that, our desire to save wood led to fewer pieces of wood in the box from which to burn. When the fan would come on it appeared to blow all the particles that might accumulate in the box down into the ash pan. I never touch the shaker grates. While all this happened the stove was leaking water from the ash pan at up to a cup a day filling a 5 gallon tub 1/2 full of water in a week. Once the firebox was full of coals and stayed that way, the water stopped even though we used wood that I know was wetter than previously used wood.
I know what stopped the issue, however don't know the root cause. Were the coals insulating the doors and gaskets from the air leaks? I'll probably never know but when I fire it up in the fall it'll burn like a mad man until I get a good bed of coals-that's one thing for sure.
7
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster Cleanout Procedure
« on: May 13, 2015, 06:41:45 PM »
On my 5000e it is impossible to use the heatmaster tool to clean out the trough inside the top of the firebox. it goes in about a foot and the handle wedges itself in between the top of the door and the trough. Its easy to clean not that summer is here. Whats the hot set up to clean this out when the fire is burning? I bent the handle some and it goes back further but there is a limit until you bend it too far and it binds in the opposite direction.
8
HeatMaster / Re: Wood usage.
« on: December 29, 2014, 01:54:35 PM »
7-8 pieces per 12 hour period. Was 4-5 when just heating house.
House and garage. No long term numbers as I just hooked it up last Saturday. Thermostat set at 45 in garage.
House and garage. No long term numbers as I just hooked it up last Saturday. Thermostat set at 45 in garage.
9
HeatMaster / Re: Wood usage.
« on: December 29, 2014, 12:38:02 PM »
Not sure if this helps...we just installed our MF5000e in a well insulated brick 1400Sq Ft ranch with full basement (2800ft heated) with DWH. We live in the New Philadelphia, Ohio area. We split our wood into medium size chunks due to my 115lb wife loading the stove. Larger than you would for a fire place but smaller than for myself loading the stove. Pieces are marked at 20" so that they stack in the building neater. We try to get exactly 12 hour burns out of our stove as it seems to be more efficient than 24 hour burns. We were putting 4-5 pieces of wood (cherry, hard maple, elm) every 12 hours. As a note: 18-20" pieces keep the fire burning better than fewer 24-30" pieces. This appears more efficient right now with the weather just in the teens for lows. The more shorter pieces stack higher and burn down slower keeping the fire going. The less longer wood would burn out quicker as there would be no wood stacked in a pile...
I recently added a heat exchanger for the garage and that nearly doubled the usage. it takes 7-8 to get through the night now. I may want to rethink that heating the garage move...lol I do need to insulate the pipes that are going up through the attic though. That should help some I hope...
That doesn't put it into Cords as everyone wants to use on here but you can tell that the type of accessories you are using may have a dramatic impact on wood use. Our brief 2 month history has us using a 20"rick of wood (4' x 8' x 20") 10 days to 2 weeks without the garage being heated. I anticipate that to improve as I start using oak and hickory.
I recently added a heat exchanger for the garage and that nearly doubled the usage. it takes 7-8 to get through the night now. I may want to rethink that heating the garage move...lol I do need to insulate the pipes that are going up through the attic though. That should help some I hope...
That doesn't put it into Cords as everyone wants to use on here but you can tell that the type of accessories you are using may have a dramatic impact on wood use. Our brief 2 month history has us using a 20"rick of wood (4' x 8' x 20") 10 days to 2 weeks without the garage being heated. I anticipate that to improve as I start using oak and hickory.
10
HeatMaster / Re: Front door leak
« on: December 20, 2014, 06:42:43 AM »
Update:
I adjusted all the rope seals (moved them so that they compressed more against the frame), tightened the door bearings, and empty the ash pan less frequently. Drips all gone!!! Not sure what adjustment made the difference but not sure I care as long as it stays dry!
I adjusted all the rope seals (moved them so that they compressed more against the frame), tightened the door bearings, and empty the ash pan less frequently. Drips all gone!!! Not sure what adjustment made the difference but not sure I care as long as it stays dry!
11
HeatMaster / Re: Front door leak
« on: December 12, 2014, 11:35:50 AM »
Tried emptying the ashes every 2 weeks. There is far less condensation in the ash tray and the coals are turning to a finer ash. Usually put 7 pieces of wood in to get through 12 hours and now only need 5. Stove appears to be more efficient when the ash tray is full and coals can build up deeper in the fire box.
12
HeatMaster / Re: Front door leak
« on: December 04, 2014, 05:50:00 AM »
I empty it once a week. It is usually full. I will try letting it go longer. Thanks
Vince
Vince
13
HeatMaster / Re: Front door leak
« on: December 03, 2014, 06:37:08 PM »
I have a MF5000E and it is doing the same thing. 185 set temp and 10 degree differential. I noticed that the design of the ash door has a flaw. The gasket is about 1/2 inch wide but the bottom of the pan rests against the lip that sticks out to seal the door. The lip forces the gasket down as it is so close to the edge of the gasket and it cannot seal. There needs to be a spacer under the pan that allows the lip to seal against the center (or close) of the gasket. Thinking about a spacer to help lift the ash door so the lip contacts better and doesn't allow cold air in to condense.
We are burning 2 year old cherry and oak and hard maple that is pretty dry. Heating a brick 2400 sq ft ranch house and going to hook up a 2-1/2 car garage soon. Building a 30 x 40 garage this year to heat also. Getting 12 hour burns out of 5-7 chunks of wood at 20-40 degree outside temps. Stove works awesome however hate the mess. Also notice that the ashes are really 1/4" chunks of charcoal not ash. Can't complain about the performance of the stove or the quality of the build...just symptoms that don't make sense. Our electric bill has gone from $650/month to $150. And then the house was only 64 degrees. Love my stove
We are burning 2 year old cherry and oak and hard maple that is pretty dry. Heating a brick 2400 sq ft ranch house and going to hook up a 2-1/2 car garage soon. Building a 30 x 40 garage this year to heat also. Getting 12 hour burns out of 5-7 chunks of wood at 20-40 degree outside temps. Stove works awesome however hate the mess. Also notice that the ashes are really 1/4" chunks of charcoal not ash. Can't complain about the performance of the stove or the quality of the build...just symptoms that don't make sense. Our electric bill has gone from $650/month to $150. And then the house was only 64 degrees. Love my stove
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Burning a little coal
« on: October 13, 2014, 02:12:08 PM »
Seems odd to me...but why would you want to buy coal when wood is free?
15
Equipment / Re: Gas to oil ratios
« on: January 20, 2014, 08:13:15 PM »
Ran Amsoil 100-1 for years in air cooled motocross bikes and it worked great. There was a study done once that tested oil ratio with its relation to power. For MX motors, it was found that 40:1 performed best siting better ring seal. Not sure if it is pertinent with chain saws however it shows that oil provides other value than just lubricating bearings. We never deviate more than 10% from manufacturers suggested ratio.
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