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1
Portage & Main / BL 34-44 chimney and boot
« on: October 22, 2020, 08:00:27 AM »
I am in need of a chimney extension (approx 3-4 feet) and some sort of a weatherized boot to put through a metal roof.
Does anybody know what brand of chimney was used on a Portage and Main BL 34-44 built in 2017?
Looking put the stove under a carport with a metal roof to keep the wood dry.
Suggestions on the best way to do this? What Boot/Chimney works best?
Does anybody know what brand of chimney was used on a Portage and Main BL 34-44 built in 2017?
Looking put the stove under a carport with a metal roof to keep the wood dry.
Suggestions on the best way to do this? What Boot/Chimney works best?
2
Electronics / 1 thermostat for heat pump and outdoor wood boiler
« on: November 29, 2017, 07:31:56 AM »
I have seen this mentioned in some of the older threads but wanted to start a new one in case someone else is looking to do the same thing.
My house is currently heated with a heat pump and Backup electric strip heat in the plenum that comes on automatically if the heat pump cannot keep up.
I have looked for thermostats that would allow me to have the wood burner be the primary heat source and the heat pump as second and electric strip heat as third with no luck.
I came across an old post from Schoppy and he basically did what I am looking to do by using an aquastat.
If the water coming in the house form the OWB is hot then a call for heat from the thermostat would start the secondary loop circulator and the blower in the air handler. If the water is cold and a call for heat then it would send the signal to the heat pump and blower to start just like it is currently wired today.
Am I missing anything with this?
All the solid colored wires and the dashed yellow line shows how the thermostat is currently wired. The proposed (yellow) wiring goes to an aquastat to direct the signal to either the circulator or the heat pump.
I do not think I need to do anything with the (reversing) O/B terminals.....?
My house is currently heated with a heat pump and Backup electric strip heat in the plenum that comes on automatically if the heat pump cannot keep up.
I have looked for thermostats that would allow me to have the wood burner be the primary heat source and the heat pump as second and electric strip heat as third with no luck.
I came across an old post from Schoppy and he basically did what I am looking to do by using an aquastat.
If the water coming in the house form the OWB is hot then a call for heat from the thermostat would start the secondary loop circulator and the blower in the air handler. If the water is cold and a call for heat then it would send the signal to the heat pump and blower to start just like it is currently wired today.
Am I missing anything with this?
All the solid colored wires and the dashed yellow line shows how the thermostat is currently wired. The proposed (yellow) wiring goes to an aquastat to direct the signal to either the circulator or the heat pump.
I do not think I need to do anything with the (reversing) O/B terminals.....?
3
Plumbing / Another side arm vs flat plate question.
« on: October 04, 2017, 08:26:27 AM »
This topic has probably already been beaten to death over the years but I have looked in some older posts but have not found what I am specifically looking for.
The question is regarding heat x-changers for Domestic hot water heaters
From what I have been seeing there are 2 types.
Side arm and Plate.
Below are a few assumptions I am following........ Correct me where I am wrong.
Side arm :
Pros-Good for keeping hot water inside tank hot.
Cons- Any new water added to the tank will be cold. Not good for large amounts of hot water.
Flat plate:
Pros - Heats water when adding it to tank. Good for large amounts of hot water
Cons - If hot water is not used frequently water in tank will cool off.
Is there a way to hook up a heat x-changer to be some sort of hybrid? I would like to be able to use large amounts of hot water and keep the tank hot when not in use?
Use a flat plate to dump hot water in but also use it to keep it hot?
Does it make sense to have both a side arm and flat plate?
The question is regarding heat x-changers for Domestic hot water heaters
From what I have been seeing there are 2 types.
Side arm and Plate.
Below are a few assumptions I am following........ Correct me where I am wrong.
Side arm :
Pros-Good for keeping hot water inside tank hot.
Cons- Any new water added to the tank will be cold. Not good for large amounts of hot water.
Flat plate:
Pros - Heats water when adding it to tank. Good for large amounts of hot water
Cons - If hot water is not used frequently water in tank will cool off.
Is there a way to hook up a heat x-changer to be some sort of hybrid? I would like to be able to use large amounts of hot water and keep the tank hot when not in use?
Use a flat plate to dump hot water in but also use it to keep it hot?
Does it make sense to have both a side arm and flat plate?
4
Advanced Plumbing / Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 11, 2017, 12:06:18 PM »
This is my attempt at designing a system for my house and pole barn running off the same OWB.
I have never done anything like this before so if you have any input of where I am going wrong or have an idea on how to make it better please let me know your thoughts.
I have looked at numerous webpages/videos trying to figure this out.
The Idronics catalogs and Coffee with Callefi videos had allot of good info.
https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/technical-magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hEFzCCxz9s&list=PLuuV0ELkYb5VE0I4evUZ30b5U78CRlRdg
The house will have about 250' or Logstor pipe to it and the barn has about 100'.
My thoughts are to have a Primary/Secondary loop system. With one outdoor reset that controls the water temp for both the garage and basement floor heat in the house. And another outdoor reset for the barn to control both concrete zones.
In the house I would like to heat the following.
2 water to air heat exchangers. Mounted in the existing ductwork. One is on the first floor and the other is on the second.
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Attached garage concrete floor. 3 - 300 ft loops
Basement concrete floor. 6 - 300 ft loops.
Pole barn has the following.
Unit heater hanging from ceiling
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Small baseboard radiator heater for small bathroom.
Main zone concrete: 8 - 300 ft loops
Secondary zone 1 - 300 ft loop.
Once I get a system design nailed down I need to figure out where to put all the valves, flanges,
drain ports, etc.....
Does anyone know of a free software that would help with system design and part specification?
Thanks for your time.
I have never done anything like this before so if you have any input of where I am going wrong or have an idea on how to make it better please let me know your thoughts.
I have looked at numerous webpages/videos trying to figure this out.
The Idronics catalogs and Coffee with Callefi videos had allot of good info.
https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/technical-magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hEFzCCxz9s&list=PLuuV0ELkYb5VE0I4evUZ30b5U78CRlRdg
The house will have about 250' or Logstor pipe to it and the barn has about 100'.
My thoughts are to have a Primary/Secondary loop system. With one outdoor reset that controls the water temp for both the garage and basement floor heat in the house. And another outdoor reset for the barn to control both concrete zones.
In the house I would like to heat the following.
2 water to air heat exchangers. Mounted in the existing ductwork. One is on the first floor and the other is on the second.
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Attached garage concrete floor. 3 - 300 ft loops
Basement concrete floor. 6 - 300 ft loops.
Pole barn has the following.
Unit heater hanging from ceiling
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Small baseboard radiator heater for small bathroom.
Main zone concrete: 8 - 300 ft loops
Secondary zone 1 - 300 ft loop.
Once I get a system design nailed down I need to figure out where to put all the valves, flanges,
drain ports, etc.....
Does anyone know of a free software that would help with system design and part specification?
Thanks for your time.
5
Portage & Main / To gas or not to gas? That is the question.....
« on: July 23, 2017, 01:20:52 PM »
I have been following this forum for a few months now trying to make a decision on a OWB.
I have been talking to a few people and some are steering me away from the EGR 250 and more towards the BL 34-44 with shaker grates because of a few reasons.
1-They do not like the Gasification models because they are prone to problems and finicky.
Is that a valid point or is it just a lack of experience?
2-They do not think it will be big enough for my application.
If that's true how are people in colder climates than I am in using these successfully?
Any advice on those 2 points? Am I missing anything else?
I like the idea of cutting less wood but do not want to waste my money either.
Side question:
Can you burn coal in a EGR 250 or BL 34-44?
If so what kind of mixture of wood to coal?
I have been talking to a few people and some are steering me away from the EGR 250 and more towards the BL 34-44 with shaker grates because of a few reasons.
1-They do not like the Gasification models because they are prone to problems and finicky.
Is that a valid point or is it just a lack of experience?
2-They do not think it will be big enough for my application.
If that's true how are people in colder climates than I am in using these successfully?
Any advice on those 2 points? Am I missing anything else?
I like the idea of cutting less wood but do not want to waste my money either.
Side question:
Can you burn coal in a EGR 250 or BL 34-44?
If so what kind of mixture of wood to coal?
6
Plumbing / Logstor installation questions
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:43:42 AM »
A few questions regarding the installation of Logstor pipe or any other insulated pex for that matter.
I will be making 2 runs. One from OWB to the house and one from the OWB to the shop.
The one to the house will be going through the basement block wall strait in so I wouldn't have to add any length for the bends.
The one going to the shop will have to be bent up 90 deg along with the 2 going into the back of the OWB and the one going to the shop.
1- How much pipe do you recommend sticking inside the basement wall?
2-Is there a good way to seal up the pipe going through a block wall? Do they make any fittings or do I just seal it up with caulk?
3 - How much needs to be sticking up where the OWB is set?
4- How much length to add for each 90 deg bend up?
5 - How deep to bury pipe?
I do not want to cut my self short on ordering enough pipe but yet I do not want to be throwing a bunch away since it is so expensive.
Any other suggestions or pitfalls to watch out for?
I will be making 2 runs. One from OWB to the house and one from the OWB to the shop.
The one to the house will be going through the basement block wall strait in so I wouldn't have to add any length for the bends.
The one going to the shop will have to be bent up 90 deg along with the 2 going into the back of the OWB and the one going to the shop.
1- How much pipe do you recommend sticking inside the basement wall?
2-Is there a good way to seal up the pipe going through a block wall? Do they make any fittings or do I just seal it up with caulk?
3 - How much needs to be sticking up where the OWB is set?
4- How much length to add for each 90 deg bend up?
5 - How deep to bury pipe?
I do not want to cut my self short on ordering enough pipe but yet I do not want to be throwing a bunch away since it is so expensive.
Any other suggestions or pitfalls to watch out for?
7
Portage & Main / EGR 250 side clearances
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:29:35 AM »
Does anybody have any suggestions on the clearances needed to get to the sides of and EGR 250?
I am looking at putting it in a 3 sided building with the open side being the front of the OWB and a wall to the RH side of it. I will be stacking wood to the left side in the same building.
The manual calls for 18" on LH and RH side and 60" for front and back. Seems a little tight on the sides.....
Also is there any problem with adding more exhaust pipe to get out through the roof? How high above the roof would I need to extend it?
I am looking at putting it in a 3 sided building with the open side being the front of the OWB and a wall to the RH side of it. I will be stacking wood to the left side in the same building.
The manual calls for 18" on LH and RH side and 60" for front and back. Seems a little tight on the sides.....
Also is there any problem with adding more exhaust pipe to get out through the roof? How high above the roof would I need to extend it?
8
Polar Furnace / Polar post #'s
« on: June 20, 2017, 07:57:12 PM »
Why so few posts about Polar?
At first glance it looks like there isn't much interest in this brand. Or maybe its a sign that they do not have many problems?
How long has the polar brand been around?
I have been looking at this website and getting most of my info from it. I was about to write off polar because of the few posts but the more I hear about them the more I like them.
At first glance it looks like there isn't much interest in this brand. Or maybe its a sign that they do not have many problems?
How long has the polar brand been around?
I have been looking at this website and getting most of my info from it. I was about to write off polar because of the few posts but the more I hear about them the more I like them.
9
Portage & Main / EGR 250 consumables
« on: June 19, 2017, 12:37:55 PM »
I have been looking hard at the Portage and Main EGR 250 and noticed some notes in the user manual about consumable items.
The nozzle is a consumable item. The life expectancy of a nozzle cannot be predicted by usage or
specified period.
The refractories are consumable items. The life expectancy of refractories cannot be predicted by
usage or specified period. Damage, deterioration and cracking of all refractories (heat treated fire
brick) are excluded from the warranty.
Is this something I should worry about?
What is a realistic amount of time these should last?
Has anyone ever replaced them?
What kind of cost is associated with them?
Are these something you can make yourself if the company stops offering them?
Thanks
The nozzle is a consumable item. The life expectancy of a nozzle cannot be predicted by usage or
specified period.
The refractories are consumable items. The life expectancy of refractories cannot be predicted by
usage or specified period. Damage, deterioration and cracking of all refractories (heat treated fire
brick) are excluded from the warranty.
Is this something I should worry about?
What is a realistic amount of time these should last?
Has anyone ever replaced them?
What kind of cost is associated with them?
Are these something you can make yourself if the company stops offering them?
Thanks
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Looking for first outdoor wood boiler
« on: June 14, 2017, 02:17:20 PM »
Dang there are so many options!!!!!!
At least when you purchase a vehicle you can take it for a test drive.....
Hello all. I found this forum while doing some internet searches and there is allot of great info here.
I am in the process of purchasing a my first outdoor wood boiler and have so many questions.
I would like to do as much of the work as I can for 2 reasons:
1- To save Money
2- So I know how it is setup in case there are any problems in the future.
I have somewhat narrowed my search down to these 4 brands but not necessarily a particular stove. I would like to stick with the gasification models.
Central Boiler
Portage and Main
HeatMaster
Hearmor
If there are dealers for the above models what size unit would you recommend? I would like to get some opinions.
Heat master specific: Is the new GS model any good?
I talk to some people and they say that stainless is the worst thing for a boiler and others say the exact opposite.
Same goes with underground insulated pex. I believe I want to go with the closed cell type and not the "bubble wrap" style but again so many options.
Logstor Dual flex pex
Rehau
Thermo-pex
Rhino-flex by Rovanco
I attached a sketch of what I am going to heat.
2 story house with radiant tubes in basement and water to air heat exchangers already installed in the air handlers.
Attached garage with radiant tubes already installed.
Pole barn with Radiant tubes already installed.
Would also like to heat the water heater in the house and pole barn.
Located in Southern Indiana so we do not get super cold winters.
I would like to place the wood boiler behind the barn so it is unseen.
Is there any good documentation to calculate what size pumps and Diameter of pipe needed?
I have a million more questions but this is a good start.
Thanks for you time and I appreciate your input.
At least when you purchase a vehicle you can take it for a test drive.....
Hello all. I found this forum while doing some internet searches and there is allot of great info here.
I am in the process of purchasing a my first outdoor wood boiler and have so many questions.
I would like to do as much of the work as I can for 2 reasons:
1- To save Money
2- So I know how it is setup in case there are any problems in the future.
I have somewhat narrowed my search down to these 4 brands but not necessarily a particular stove. I would like to stick with the gasification models.
Central Boiler
Portage and Main
HeatMaster
Hearmor
If there are dealers for the above models what size unit would you recommend? I would like to get some opinions.
Heat master specific: Is the new GS model any good?
I talk to some people and they say that stainless is the worst thing for a boiler and others say the exact opposite.
Same goes with underground insulated pex. I believe I want to go with the closed cell type and not the "bubble wrap" style but again so many options.
Logstor Dual flex pex
Rehau
Thermo-pex
Rhino-flex by Rovanco
I attached a sketch of what I am going to heat.
2 story house with radiant tubes in basement and water to air heat exchangers already installed in the air handlers.
Attached garage with radiant tubes already installed.
Pole barn with Radiant tubes already installed.
Would also like to heat the water heater in the house and pole barn.
Located in Southern Indiana so we do not get super cold winters.
I would like to place the wood boiler behind the barn so it is unseen.
Is there any good documentation to calculate what size pumps and Diameter of pipe needed?
I have a million more questions but this is a good start.
Thanks for you time and I appreciate your input.
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