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[victor6deep]

Maybe your dealer didn't set you up with the right size exchangers etc. 368 gallons of water is lots of heat so something wasn't sized right.

[Scott7m]

its not about water capacity at all.  lets remember that, as today's most efficient stoves hold the fewest gallons of water.  mine is currently holding 60 gallons, and some only hold 30. 

its about heat transfer, not heat storage.  if your furnace isnt able to transfer enough btu into the water, as fast as your pulling it off, its gonna stay behind regardless of how many gallons you have. 

but your problems definetly sound like something id love to hear more about, either the stove is just flat out over rated, or maybe there is design issues within the install.   thats very possible

Even though all manufacturers show max btu ratings and say they can heat x number of square feet, its all flat out bull..  first of all, max ratings doesnt matter, thats with the draft completely wide open in the lab with perfect wood, and maxing sure the firebox is completely stuffed....  what i would like to see more companies do is give you a rating of how many btu can this stove provide over a give time period, lets say 8 12 14 hours or something like that.   Then as a dealer when you show up for the job, you can do a heat loss caluclation on the home based on size, number and quality of widows, several different factors to determine the size furnace that would work best for them. 

I've saw 6000 square foot homes that heat far easier than a 1500 foot farmhouse. 


but lets definitely hear more about this situation........    feel free to ask questions here or even call..   this is a chance to learn something for sure

[willieG]

We purchased a HE2100 in 2012 and have had nothing but problems with it. The woodstove will not do what it is rated to do. They claim on there web site that it will heat 10,000 sq. ft. It will barely do less then 5000.  We have had some other warranty issues and the company after speaking to our dealer refuses to honor there warranty.

to heat a squar foot of space with 8 foot cielings can take anywhere (on average) from 20 to 50 btu per square foot....if yoru home required even 40 per square foot on a severley cold night that would be 5000 x 40=200,000 btu per hour so if you wanted to go from  10 at night till 7 am that would be 9 hours...times  the 200,000 = 1,800,000 btu 

now it is said that a pound of wood can give up 8600 btu's but after you take teh btu's to dry out the wood to actually burn that number is said to be about 6000 now lets say you have a barrel in a barrel OWB and (i don't knwo for sure but ibknow it is a low number and i wont argue  i will jsut use this for average) it is only 50% efficient..that brings the btu you are delivering to the home to only 3000 per pound so divide that 1,8000,000 by 3000 comes to 600
so, IF your  home required   40 btu per square foot of space you would need to have 600 pound of wood in your stove to last  9 hours
 btu usage depends on the heat loss from your home and 40 or 50 btu per hour can change drastically depending on your homes heat loss and location  the above calculation may not be your homes situation but you can figure it out for yourself if you know your homes heat loss and the average btu for your area and your OWB efficiency rating

[Scott7m]

A home should never really need that much heat though, the house we used in class for heat loss calculations measured at 5200 square feet, we had to use use window size and calculations for open space as well, a house that measured 5200 sq ft only required 59,000 btu per hour on the average coldest winter day in Ontario.  We then determined what size stove could achieve that many btu per hour over 12 hours to size the stove correctly. 

Most btu ratings done without a heat loss calculation are grossly over stated from what I have seen since I started experimenting with heat loss calculations...

[willieG]

A home should never really need that much heat though, the house we used in class for heat loss calculations measured at 5200 square feet, we had to use use window size and calculations for open space as well, a house that measured 5200 sq ft only required 59,000 btu per hour on the average coldest winter day in Ontario.  We then determined what size stove could achieve that many btu per hour over 12 hours to size the stove correctly. 

Most btu ratings done without a heat loss calculation are grossly over stated from what I have seen since I started experimenting with heat loss calculations...

there is what we needed  some factual btu ratings... so we use 60,000 for easier figures...x 9 hours = 540,000  divided by 3000= 180 pounds of wood ,now that would be only one floor if there is a basement or upstairs you would need to figure that as well?

[Scott7m]

A home should never really need that much heat though, the house we used in class for heat loss calculations measured at 5200 square feet, we had to use use window size and calculations for open space as well, a house that measured 5200 sq ft only required 59,000 btu per hour on the average coldest winter day in Ontario.  We then determined what size stove could achieve that many btu per hour over 12 hours to size the stove correctly. 

Most btu ratings done without a heat loss calculation are grossly over stated from what I have seen since I started experimenting with heat loss calculations...

The home we did was rather complex, the floor didn't measure 5200 sq ft, but when you measured it out for open vaulted ceilings, it actually came to 5200, for example if there was rooms with 16' ceilings, the square footage for that space instantly doubled....
there is what we needed  some factual btu ratings... so we use 60,000 for easier figures...x 9 hours = 540,000  divided by 3000= 180 pounds of wood ,now that would be only one floor if there is a basement or upstairs you would need to figure that as well?

[Scott7m]

When I get into my folder I'll post the values and numbers we use to do the calculations, I can't remember it without looking back

[willieG]

 i just located on the net (for that is worth) a nice worksheet for figuring btu's required for outside to inside temps and in well or poorly insulated homes

one floor well insualted home of 1600 square feet with 8 foot cielings and outside temp 0F and inside temp of 68F =  (by this program) just under 40,000 btu per hour

for 0 and 70 degrees = about 41,000

be interesting to see how this chart works along side what you have scott (so i know if i should keep it handy or not)

i tried one with average outside day time temps of 30F and night times of 20F (averaged at 25) and inside of 70F...came to 28,000

anywheres close to what your programs tell you scott?

[Scott7m]

I'll have to find the folder and just give you the figures....  The guy who designed this used to own the largest heating/cooling business in Ontario.  He did every install with constant low fan speed settings and he said nearly every system he ever saw whether it was stove or conventional was oversized.  He said that they were all grossly oversized, and was there figures for calculations

[woodman]

Hey Scott or Willy can you do a rough heat loss calc for my house? It is a mix of older updated farm house and new construction. The main floor is 1800 sq/ft, the second floor is 1200 sq/ft, It has a full basement but is only is kept around 60. The kicker is I have 30 3x5 windows plus a few smaller ones. 3 doors including 1 large slider. Windows are all pellas and doors are all thermatrue. I live in Michigan so I think the design temp is 70*@ 0. Oh I forgot 9 foot ceilings.

[Scott7m]

Ok Willie here we go


Design temp, coldest expected winter low temp

Lets say 0 degrees

Now we need to use a figure called heating degree days
For my area about 5500

It asks me to figure in electric rate and then convert khw to btu
So .135 cents per kwh

Electric furnace 97% efficient

Ceiling square footage 2000 sq ft
R Value 30

Wall square footage 1600
R value 13

Windows/door square foot. 300
R value 1.8

2000 sq ft of floor
R 20

Air changes per hour.   0.33 minimal health code

0.5 for "tight" house, we'll use that

Internal heat gains "people" 2

Ppl put off around 2000 btu per hour

Soo...  After this is calculated here is what I see

Ceiling is losing 4667 btu/hr
Walls losing 8615 btu/hr
Windows/doors losing 11667 btu/hr
Floor loss is 7000 btu/hr
Air exchange loss 11340

Total btu loss per hour on a 0 degree hour in my neck of the woods on this house would be 43,289
So if you sized for that, you'd look for a stove that could produce that many btu per hour and you would know you were covered on a 0 degree day

Oh yea, and fuel cost for that in my area would be 3,330 in electric

[willieG]

the best way is if you heated with someting else and could come up with a cost of what it was to heat your home last year...what type of fuel and convert that to btu..then you could determine yoru wood consumption by that..but i will try this  new calsulatop i found on the web and see what it says and maybe scott can find his calcualtion sheet and try it also.

[Scott7m]

Hey Scott or Willy can you do a rough heat loss calc for my house? It is a mix of older updated farm house and new construction. The main floor is 1800 sq/ft, the second floor is 1200 sq/ft, It has a full basement but is only is kept around 60. The kicker is I have 30 3x5 windows plus a few smaller ones. 3 doors including 1 large slider. Windows are all pellas and doors are all thermatrue. I live in Michigan so I think the design temp is 70*@ 0. Oh I forgot 9 foot ceilings.

Yea I can, you'd have to email me the details off all the parameters I laid out in the above post

Location, wall space, floor space, ceiling space etc

Just post it below and I'll figure it up

[woodman]

the best way is if you heated with someting else and could come up with a cost of what it was to heat your home last year...what type of fuel and convert that to btu..then you could determine yoru wood consumption by that..but i will try this  new calsulatop i found on the web and see what it says and maybe scott can find his calcualtion sheet and try it also.

I have never heated with anything other than wood. Before I added on I used a add on in the basement. I bought my boiler when I updated the house.

[Scott7m]

Hey Scott or Willy can you do a rough heat loss calc for my house? It is a mix of older updated farm house and new construction. The main floor is 1800 sq/ft, the second floor is 1200 sq/ft, It has a full basement but is only is kept around 60. The kicker is I have 30 3x5 windows plus a few smaller ones. 3 doors including 1 large slider. Windows are all pellas and doors are all thermatrue. I live in Michigan so I think the design temp is 70*@ 0. Oh I forgot 9 foot ceilings.

I'm gonna go ahead and take a stab at it