Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
 on: September 24, 2018, 07:43:11 AM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by Bluegrass Wood Burner
I special order a probe fro it that allows it to be semerged in liquid. So it should hold up ok. I'm wandering if the Chinese tariffs will affect these controllers? I should buy 10 or so for future needs. I may put another one in  for emergency low temp for when fire dies or damper door sticks to shut the combustion fan off . Seems like a good idea??  These things are only 12.00 - 15.00. Great value

 on: September 24, 2018, 01:48:06 AM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by E Yoder
Is the aquastat inserted into a dry well somewhere? If so I'd consider putting the new probe there. I guess it could go in the vent pipe, just seems to be a way to damage it. ? I dunno.
Those inkbird controllers are pretty nice for the price.

 on: September 23, 2018, 08:47:32 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by greasemonkoid
I've got 5 on my system, cheap and reliable. Buy yourself a backup just in case. The ones I have only do about a 1.5 degree graduations so it skips a degree occasionally. There are similar units that don't do this.

 on: September 23, 2018, 08:22:45 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by mlappin
I have three of those little PID controllers running my waste oil gun, reasonably cheap, somewhat easy to program and haven’t had one take a dump yet.

 on: September 23, 2018, 07:06:47 PM 
Started by Bluegrass Wood Burner - Last post by Bluegrass Wood Burner
I'm gonna change my boiler from the aquastat to an ink bird temperature controller. I have been using one in an incubator that I hatch baby chicks out with this year and am very happy with the way it performs. I decided to mount the thermostat on the side of my boiler to get away from the smoke and heat. It will be mounted inside a electrical box with a clear cover allowing me to still see the temp and keeping the weather out of the electronics. My question concerns the probe. I bought an extra probe that is designed to be submersed. Should I run it down the vent pipe at top the tank and down into the water to get a more accurate reading? I have a mixing problem in my boiler and wander if submersing it would help get more accurate water temps. What's your thoughts on this project.

 on: September 23, 2018, 11:27:48 AM 
Started by d5knapp - Last post by NaturallyAspirated
Looks good!


 on: September 23, 2018, 09:14:14 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by greasemonkoid
A 26-99 Grundfos is the only current consuming part of our system. The magnets in the copper tube are permanent.

That 1000 hp boiler is (was) one of the local clients, there were more papers of others in the packet. The dissolved O2 was suppose to vent through the top of the conditioner unit. I'm not a boiler expert, but as far as I know the makeup tank must be vented to atmosphere. Condensate (aka lazy steam) returns to the tank, mixed with fresh water, and must be pumped back into the boiler. Many systems are not completely closed and have open steam injection nozzles. All of them - closed or open type system must still be blown down on it's specific schedule, chemical or not.

Only time will tell if it protects the boilers as well as chemicals.

 on: September 23, 2018, 06:47:43 AM 
Started by greasemonkoid - Last post by BoilerHouse
Thanks for posting.
Does the Fluidyne unit use energy besides the circulating pump.  It looks like the magnets are permanent and not electric.   
I believe I interpret that your make up tank had a steam injection.  This sounds to me like it is used as a de-aerator, essentially pre-heating the water which will also vent off dissolved oxygen. 
I found it interesting that the Fluidyne system discussed it's ability to precipitate hardness scale.  It specifically mentioned calcium carbonate.  It didn't say what happened to the "solid white crystal", although it sounds like it would pass into the boiler, not settle on tubes and form a hard scale, but be removed with the blowdown. 
I have to question some of the stats presented by Fluidyne.  Your boiler produces about 30,000 lbs of steam per hour, making it a smaller industrial boiler, but still a decent size.  Pre Fluidyne, the blowdown was 50% and the chemical usage was 200 lbs per day.  If this is accurate, both of these are insanely high, although perhaps possible if the system uses a very high percentage of make up water.  Post Fluidyne, the blowdown was 4%, which is normal even with chemical use.  It does not state weather you currently use any chemicals, although, I am assuming not.

I am one of those sceptics - basically a chemical guy, although I never sold them, however I used them and it is all I understand.  However, always willing to learn something new.  You say the boiler is very clean upon inspection with no scale or rusting.  This is the proof of the pudding.  However for me, I will stick with what I know. LOL.

 on: September 22, 2018, 09:42:41 PM 
Started by RSI - Last post by nd guy
Pm you.

 on: September 22, 2018, 06:35:06 PM 
Started by DBeleskey - Last post by mlappin
I filled one one when it was about -20F. I had both the supply and return valves open and the water froze when it got to the cold pump. I should have closed the return valve so the water was flowing fast enough to warm the pump and then switched to the return to make sure that warmed up too. It filled fine and everything looked good but no water would flow. Took the pump apart and it was solid ice.
Nothing else was a problem. After heating up the pump, it was fine.

LOL that sucks.

I finished one last year about the 28th pf December. House had been up and running for awhile. Kid had the heat exchanger unit form his grandpa’s wood working shop. He said everything was drained when his grandfather quit using the old Woodmaster. Might have been drained but was full of mud. Took forever to figure out why it wouldn’t prime, finally got the mud flushed out only to find it leaked. Took the lines off at the manifold, stuck a coupler in them and just left the pump run on low a few days until we got a new coil.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10