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Author Topic: Manifold Design for a G400  (Read 1152 times)

ticapa

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Manifold Design for a G400
« on: September 19, 2016, 11:43:59 AM »

I am looking into installing a Heatmaster G400 boiler in a location where we had prior outdoor boilers.  The Shop is a on demand loop and the house is a consistenly running loop.  We need this manifold to help with efficency and provide the boiler flow requirement.   I am looking for a neat proffesional design to go along with everything else we have done.  I am not against manufactureing one out of steel or plumbing one in with iron pipe.  I do know the boiler requires a minimum pipe sizing of at least 1 1/2".  Thus making this manifold a good size unit.   Any pictures or design ideas any one has would be greatly appreciatted.
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mlappin

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2016, 08:46:16 PM »

What size pumps are you using now?

I have a G400, have a Delta T pump to the house and a Grundfos 26-99 running on high to the shop to a 70 FPHX, I’m heating 450 gallons of water the waste oil boiler in the shop holds.

The shop is plumped directly off one outlet, simply reduced down to a 1 1/4” and used a 1 1/4” isolation valve to the pump. On the house loop I simply placed a 1 1/2” tee on the other supply, ran one side of it to the Delta T pump and plumbed in a B&G NRF-25 also running on high, simply plumbed that into the other side of a T the house returns into. Have had zero issues of boiling with this setup.


« Last Edit: August 17, 2017, 09:57:37 PM by mlappin »
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slimjim

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2016, 05:15:03 AM »

Well done Marty, I typically use copper and will send a picture of my setup when I get home tommorow!
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mlappin

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2016, 07:31:03 AM »

Well done Marty, I typically use copper and will send a picture of my setup when I get home tommorow!

Thank you, been much easier if I had more pex exposed in the Logstor, however had to work with how the old boiler was hooked up.
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ticapa

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2016, 10:14:38 AM »

Mlappin they are all Bell & Gosset NRF-25's, they are located in the buildings as the stove should have head pressure by up to 6' for the house.  Trying to upload photo''s of layouts to further discuss this needed manifold and design on the back of the G400
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ticapa

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2016, 10:20:17 AM »

I see the temperature gauges how to they work?  I have always used my lasers.  Also I thought you needed to cross the ports on the boiler left to right and right to left?  And wouldn't I want to manifold the whole stove similar to the new Polar furnace design?

Sorry for so many questions just like to do it once and right which sometimes is next to impossible.. ;)
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mlappin

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2016, 02:41:18 PM »

The gauges work very well, I used 1x1x1/2” tees then used a reducing bushing to go from 1/2” to 1/4” which the gauges are, without the bushings they would have bottomed out in the tee’s. Very handy for explaining how a system works when people can see a gauge with their own eyes.
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RSI

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2016, 06:16:55 PM »

Also I thought you needed to cross the ports on the boiler left to right and right to left? 
There is no need on a G400. They have some sort of internal manifold.
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ticapa

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2016, 09:07:13 AM »

Here are some pics of what I did for the hook up.  Can anyone tell me why the door is so warm and is it supposed to be?
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slimjim

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2016, 05:24:02 PM »

How is this, the one on the right feeds a plate exchanger in the house, the one on the right feeds a sidearm heater and forced air unit in the guest house, the guest house is about 15 feet above the boiler.
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ticapa

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2016, 09:48:08 PM »

Looks excellent.  Slimjim. Why bypass valves?  Is that for milder weather?  Also is that heater hose?  One more question,  do the doors on the g400 always radiate a lot of heat out?  The classic and empyre never seemed to get that hot.
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slimjim

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #11 on: October 25, 2016, 03:34:53 AM »

The bypass valves are there to guarantee flow, we are specializing in boiler change outs and sometimes the existing plumbing will not allow the flow we want to see on them, by installing the bypass we have the flow we need and the customer doesn't have to change his system.
Yes I started using it as a flexible connector because if the frost pushes the pad up and the pipe is below the frost lines, it can pull the fittings off the pipe, automotive heater hose seems to be the perfect inexpensive fix.
Heat from the doors, I'm not sure about that because typically when I get called in to service one of the other units, it isn't running. The dry stainless curtain inside the G series definitely makes for a much hotter fire inside the primary chamber as opposed to a completely wet firebox, perhaps the extra heat generated is what you are seeing, we all basically use the same insolation in the doors.
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slimjim

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #12 on: October 25, 2016, 08:20:01 AM »

Here is some more pics from the same install, 40 gallon electric water heater with a side arm and 16x18 rad on a gas hot air unit
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ticapa

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2016, 08:08:39 PM »

Copper looks great.  I did all the inside on both building's with copper or Stainless steel looks neater and more professional.  At the boiler I brought the farmer in me out and went cheap this time and used what was laying around.  Need to control costs some times.. ::)
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schoppy

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Re: Manifold Design for a G400
« Reply #14 on: November 28, 2016, 11:59:38 PM »

Ryan from Heatmaster sent me a picture last year of a G400 with a bypass piped in to achieve the needed GPM (can't find that picture) but I would guess he would be happy to send it to you. It worked very well on my G400, was all black pipe and simple. The bypass isn't needed on my G200 this year as my 2 lines have adequate flow. 
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