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[crankshaftdan II]

Had a few questions from anyone out there that has re-worked any of this model of boiler.  What type of smoke tube insulation will prevent burn thru of the mild steel 3/16" plate for both tubes?  What I removed looked to be waffle shaped with a yellow fiberglass center core and was completely hard as a rock.  Was possibly thinking of using 1/4" thick 409 S/S without any insulation or 1400 degree 3/8 high temp glass??  Smoke tubes were both 2/3 full of ash which probably contributed to the burn thru with acidic action??  Also has anyone used firebrick to line the perimeter around the gratebox instead of using masonary sand?  Thinking the bricks would hold a lot more heat as a heat sink than sand and would not plug the grating???  Plan on stripping down the exterior sheet metal next spring and checking the insulation and water jacket exterior, top of smoke tubes and welds in general, smoke stack, annode rod, fill/overflow porting.  Both acqua stats, temp guage, door gasket & hoses will be replaced and 1/4 turn valves will be added for the door hoses.  General cleaning with pressure washer and new high temp. primer and paint job added.  Ash box/air tube and fan box seem to be in good shape/some rust-will be cleaned and re-painted-grates are not warped and no cracks-seem to be in excellent shape.  Water overflow inner tube was plugged up with some rust and particles-looked to be additive substance-no dry rot-cleaned up and was pressure checked-no leakage.  No cresote build up inside to speak of and none on the roof from overflow so stove was in pretty good shape.  Would appreciate any pointers from any/all WoodMor owners as I will post more as I move thru this project-not in a big rush as my time frame is over the next two years for a total install.  Thanks-------Cranky

[crankshaftdan II]

Have plenty of time remaining--any comments from anyone???   Just trying to obtain useful info for future reference.  102 reads and no comments???   Cranky

[Big Wood]

I picked up a 200 this past year that burned all the wiring out of it and looks like it got hot when warm weather comes will start the rebuild with some changes

[aries9245]

Sorry crank.. No help here wish I could

[mag1266]

Cranky,
I have added firebrick on top of the sand and it really helps with cycle times. I built the sand up so the brick runs at an angle toward the grates. I also put some bricks in the heat exchanger to try and grab some heat. good luck with the rebuild. we like pictures   

[crankshaftdan II]

Thanks to all of the answers so far--looking to get started on my refurb. of my 400.  Glad to hear about the firebrick idea on top of the sand--are you referring to put brick in the two 8" dia. smoke tubes prior to the exhaust stack to capture more heat before exhausting?  I talked to someone who did a stainless steel 3/4" I.D.pipe and did a loop from the top of the stack, down thru both exhaust pipes and plumbed it back into the tank--don't think I have pictures of their set-up???   I think that might work as long as you don't capture too much exhaust heat and wind up with a creosote build up and goo running down the roof top!   This is just my thought process as I am still researching for any good information.   I will take pictures and post same when I make some progress-meantime I keep reading and learning from all owners.  Great site here and love to get feedback!!!.........Cranky

[crankshaftdan II]

Thanks to all members for the timely information so far--still lurking on all sites to gather any/all information and looking forward to warmer weather to get started with the tear down and rebuild!!!   Come-on-summer!!!

[heat550]

Thanks to all members for the timely information so far--still lurking on all sites to gather any/all information and looking forward to warmer weather to get started with the tear down and rebuild!!!   Come-on-summer!!!

I have a 200css with issues weeping fire box in one spot . burning every winter in Minnesota 19 years . I think Its easy fixable . bit welding she be good to go . But i have issue where stoves a bit small so Im going to with 400css But im heating 2 houses garage and shop . 400css is cost effective. saving 4000 in Lp a year . Well see if the 400css can handle 19 years again . But let us know how refurbish is going .
I fixed everything on mine in 19 years . except welding it .  3 draft fans 3 bladders changed front door hoses 3 times .4 door gaskets  and one set of grates .  I had to grind back tubs flat so plate would seal up they twisted 1/4 from years of heat . 5.5 billion btus passed through that chimney.  Minnesota winters cant bring out the hard core wood burners .   all I can say get that wood drying another nasty winters right around the corner

Heat550

[slimjim]

Cranky, I would think that perhaps in your rebuild, a motorized damper in the stack might be a good experiment to slow some of the heat loss up the stack when the unit is in the off mode? It may creosote up so make it easy to clean but I would bet it would be worthwhile!

[crankshaftdan II]

Cranky, I would think that perhaps in your rebuild, a motorized damper in the stack might be a good experiment to slow some of the heat loss up the stack when the unit is in the off mode? It may creosote up so make it easy to clean but I would bet it would be worthwhile!

SJ:
Thanks for the advise on the damper-well worth consideration as you are probably correct on the cresote effect with the quality of wood I will be using.  Will try to get pictures when I get rolling on the project-had some set-backs this summer-so looks to be a next year project WIP!   Thanks much for all your input on this and other forums as you have a vast knowledge base and share with all............Cranky

[tinfoilhat2020]

what year is the 400?? i am a bit confused about the smoke tubes....i believe the new model i have just has one exchange pass thru the water jacket from back to front.

One upgrade that i did was hooking up a Ranco digital aquastat....much easier to get control of the boiler...i like setting my differential exactly to where i want it...within 1 degree

[tinfoilhat2020]

as long as you keep the flappers on the blowers clean you shouldnt need a damper on the stack....when my stove craps down it barely smokes...and when those dual fans kick on it dont take long to get up to temp....I had a bunch of pine mill scraps in there the other day and when the fans kicked on it only took 4 minutes and 22 seconds to get up to temp (170-180)....yess im a nerd....i times it. lol

[crankshaftdan II]

what year is the 400?? i am a bit confused about the smoke tubes....i believe the new model i have just has one exchange pass thru the water jacket from back to front.

One upgrade that i did was hooking up a Ranco digital aquastat....much easier to get control of the boiler...i like setting my differential exactly to where i want it...within 1 degree

I have dual 8" diameter smoke tubes leading from the front of the boiler to the rear where the pass thru turns upward into the chimney exhaust.    There is a removable cover plate for a clean out and some type of fiberglass or ceramic insulation (Picture) which you can see is burned thru or eaten up by no ash cleaning by previous owners.  I am thinking it is a mid 80's model-s/n is un-readable.
I am thinking that a Ranco DTA is something to incorporate into my boiler as well for the accuracy.
I still keep reading for other improvements as well!

[mlappin]

Cranky, I would think that perhaps in your rebuild, a motorized damper in the stack might be a good experiment to slow some of the heat loss up the stack when the unit is in the off mode? It may creosote up so make it easy to clean but I would bet it would be worthwhile!

SJ:
Thanks for the advise on the damper-well worth consideration as you are probably correct on the cresote effect with the quality of wood I will be using.  Will try to get pictures when I get rolling on the project-had some set-backs this summer-so looks to be a next year project WIP!   Thanks much for all your input on this and other forums as you have a vast knowledge base and share with all............Cranky

I have a couple of Belimo spring return damper actuators laying around, let me know if you want to go with a damper in the stack route.

[heat550]

what year is the 400?? i am a bit confused about the smoke tubes....i believe the new model i have just has one exchange pass thru the water jacket from back to front.

One upgrade that i did was hooking up a Ranco digital aquastat....much easier to get control of the boiler...i like setting my differential exactly to where i want it...within 1 degree

I have dual 8" diameter smoke tubes leading from the front of the boiler to the rear where the pass thru turns upward into the chimney exhaust.    There is a removable cover plate for a clean out and some type of fiberglass or ceramic insulation (Picture) which you can see is burned thru or eaten up by no ash cleaning by previous owners.  I am thinking it is a mid 80's model-s/n is un-readable.
I am thinking that a Ranco DTA is something to incorporate into my boiler as well for the accuracy.
I still keep reading for other improvements as well!

Late 90s looks like my 200css. Look at bottom of tank at split. You will see cracks on outside bend radius. 😄  yes look close there will be some.  This is how they are till 1999 . they fixed the problem .
Need to put patches on outside radiuses. 

Heat550