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2
Plumbing / Re: Cast Iron Radiators
« on: January 11, 2016, 01:48:48 PM »
Slim,
thank you that is correct.
Since this will be a greenhouse would I need it?
thank you that is correct.
Since this will be a greenhouse would I need it?
3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Anyway to cheat a undersized boiler
« on: January 07, 2016, 10:17:44 AM »
Look up an article on building solar storage tanks.
Seams very simple and would be fairly cheap.
Seams very simple and would be fairly cheap.
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Boiler comparison test idea
« on: January 07, 2016, 10:14:28 AM »
I'm not sure this is the test you would want to compare stoves with.
If we were to compare and base it on the amount of hot water produced before the aquastat
kick on someone with a larger water jacket would win (in most cases).
I think you should measure the exact amount of water then figure how much wood it takes to
get from a base temperature to set point.
If we were to compare and base it on the amount of hot water produced before the aquastat
kick on someone with a larger water jacket would win (in most cases).
I think you should measure the exact amount of water then figure how much wood it takes to
get from a base temperature to set point.
5
Plumbing / Cast Iron Radiators
« on: January 07, 2016, 08:59:39 AM »
I just picked up (6) cast iron radiator for my green house.
I'm hoping to keep the G.H. heated to about 50 during our milder N.C. winters.
I've been reviewing the tempering valves but my father-in-law has a bypass and
standard valves to his. What would you reccommend?
He also runs (4) radiators from (1) line in lieu of a manifold and seperate zones with success.
I'm hoping to keep the G.H. heated to about 50 during our milder N.C. winters.
I've been reviewing the tempering valves but my father-in-law has a bypass and
standard valves to his. What would you reccommend?
He also runs (4) radiators from (1) line in lieu of a manifold and seperate zones with success.
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Can someone please explain water capacity of the boiler?
« on: December 08, 2015, 08:46:40 AM »
My take is a little different than the rest.
I have a somewhat modified conventional. My setup has a firebox then (6) 4" tubes running 4' to a vertical flue.
I have around 650 gallons of water and batch burn. Think of the water as a battery. During our coldest part
of the season I burn (2) fires per day and get my water to 180-190 then use the energy until its down
to 150 degrees. Some people say you have to stay with the fire when you batchburn but thats not
true. I usually check my fire three times per day.
My setup is made to go inside a shop and you get the benefit of a heated shop as well.
I have a somewhat modified conventional. My setup has a firebox then (6) 4" tubes running 4' to a vertical flue.
I have around 650 gallons of water and batch burn. Think of the water as a battery. During our coldest part
of the season I burn (2) fires per day and get my water to 180-190 then use the energy until its down
to 150 degrees. Some people say you have to stay with the fire when you batchburn but thats not
true. I usually check my fire three times per day.
My setup is made to go inside a shop and you get the benefit of a heated shop as well.
7
Natures Comfort / Re: Is this normal ?
« on: November 25, 2015, 09:14:18 AM »
Mike,
How do you run your stove, how many gallons does your stove hold?
The reason i ask is that this site is based on people using outside stoves with smaller water jackets.
This type of stove burns the wood (Cycles) as needed. These stoves idle quite often instead of batch
burning. The idle times causes creasote and moisture to form in the firebox and rust the firebox.
These issues are exacerbated by running the stoves at lower temperatures.
My setup holds 650 gallons (Inside my Shop) and I batch burn (2) times per day. I do run my temp
at 180 degrees but my father has almost the exact same setup and has run his at 150 for over 30yrs now.
His stove hasn't rusted out.
The statement that everyone makes about low heat and rusting the stove out isn't true in all cases and it
took me awhile to figure that out. Either way I would suggest burning at higher temperatures to keep blower in
ones house from running longer. The higher the heat difference the more btu's get transferred, this goes for
the stove as well. Somewhere around 140 degrees the stove walls stop sweating and burning becomes optimal.
Think of it like a thermostat being changed in a newer car. If the improper thermostat is added and runs the car
at a lower temperature the engine may not run as efficient.
This is just my belief and I'm not end all says all in the wood stove business.
How do you run your stove, how many gallons does your stove hold?
The reason i ask is that this site is based on people using outside stoves with smaller water jackets.
This type of stove burns the wood (Cycles) as needed. These stoves idle quite often instead of batch
burning. The idle times causes creasote and moisture to form in the firebox and rust the firebox.
These issues are exacerbated by running the stoves at lower temperatures.
My setup holds 650 gallons (Inside my Shop) and I batch burn (2) times per day. I do run my temp
at 180 degrees but my father has almost the exact same setup and has run his at 150 for over 30yrs now.
His stove hasn't rusted out.
The statement that everyone makes about low heat and rusting the stove out isn't true in all cases and it
took me awhile to figure that out. Either way I would suggest burning at higher temperatures to keep blower in
ones house from running longer. The higher the heat difference the more btu's get transferred, this goes for
the stove as well. Somewhere around 140 degrees the stove walls stop sweating and burning becomes optimal.
Think of it like a thermostat being changed in a newer car. If the improper thermostat is added and runs the car
at a lower temperature the engine may not run as efficient.
This is just my belief and I'm not end all says all in the wood stove business.
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Burning Coal
« on: October 14, 2015, 11:24:19 AM »
I burn coal during the coldest months.
I use it to increase my temp. quickly and mix with wood.
Doesn't take alot to go a long way!!!
I use it to increase my temp. quickly and mix with wood.
Doesn't take alot to go a long way!!!
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Round vs square fire boxes? Which is best I need some help please
« on: October 08, 2015, 07:17:13 AM »
I'd run back through Slim's list above before worrying about firebox shape.
Every company will have claims based on their design, get past the claims and speak with dealers/customers.
If the company is reputable they will have worked the design issues/flaws out round vs/ square and
stainless vs. carbon steel.
The company that manufactures my stove uses square boxes with longevity of 30+ years.
I would however look at the newer designs. The older designs are very simple and should last
a long time. The newer designs should last a long time as well with added benefits of efficiency!!
Every company will have claims based on their design, get past the claims and speak with dealers/customers.
If the company is reputable they will have worked the design issues/flaws out round vs/ square and
stainless vs. carbon steel.
The company that manufactures my stove uses square boxes with longevity of 30+ years.
I would however look at the newer designs. The older designs are very simple and should last
a long time. The newer designs should last a long time as well with added benefits of efficiency!!
10
Home Made / Re: Higher efficiency conventional build scotch type
« on: August 28, 2015, 08:32:24 AM »
I wouldn't worry too much about the cresote issue, it can be cleaned easily.
I have (6) 4" tubes around 48" long in my stove. My manufacturer sales a
wire brush that fits a long handle to run through the tubes.
I've ran the stove for a month and didn't have issues.
I batch burn but don't think you'll have issues cleaning it once a week.
takes me 15min at the most to clean.
I have (6) 4" tubes around 48" long in my stove. My manufacturer sales a
wire brush that fits a long handle to run through the tubes.
I've ran the stove for a month and didn't have issues.
I batch burn but don't think you'll have issues cleaning it once a week.
takes me 15min at the most to clean.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: How to install solar with OWB?
« on: March 24, 2015, 02:59:37 PM »
Has anyone looked for used solar panels?
I bought (6) panels and controller for $75.00 each. It's all been mounted on my shed and uses a goldline controller
http://shop.solardirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=154
This controller includes (2) sensors and runs the panels when they are hotter than the stove.
My setup includes (6) panels, Tubing, pump & solar controler.
The setup is pretty easy for older panels and the price can be very budget friendly.
My manufacturer builds his stoves sized appropriately so I'm able to use all the free energy
during the summer and shoulder months to help with heat and DHW.
I've been around hydronic solar panels 20+ years, all the same setup, no solar tubes.
I'm not sure of the benefit some will receive though, I believe the solar storage will be a limiting factor.
I have 650 gallons of water, it serves my purpose with a family of (4). My wife can wash our clothes and fill
our 70 gallon bath with no problems. I've turned my water heater off and had no problem but normally I just leave it on .
If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I believe solar panels are worth the investment as long as you have enough storage.
Look up my previous posts to find my setup.
I bought (6) panels and controller for $75.00 each. It's all been mounted on my shed and uses a goldline controller
http://shop.solardirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=154
This controller includes (2) sensors and runs the panels when they are hotter than the stove.
My setup includes (6) panels, Tubing, pump & solar controler.
The setup is pretty easy for older panels and the price can be very budget friendly.
My manufacturer builds his stoves sized appropriately so I'm able to use all the free energy
during the summer and shoulder months to help with heat and DHW.
I've been around hydronic solar panels 20+ years, all the same setup, no solar tubes.
I'm not sure of the benefit some will receive though, I believe the solar storage will be a limiting factor.
I have 650 gallons of water, it serves my purpose with a family of (4). My wife can wash our clothes and fill
our 70 gallon bath with no problems. I've turned my water heater off and had no problem but normally I just leave it on .
If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I believe solar panels are worth the investment as long as you have enough storage.
Look up my previous posts to find my setup.
12
Fire Wood / Re: Shortage Letting Up
« on: January 09, 2015, 11:56:45 AM »
We have enough wood from our property to supply our needs but currently its easier for me to
purchase our wood.
We bought 6 cords for $800.00 but it from a friend who saves the scraps and sells after hes sold the
rest to mills. Been buying from him for 10+ years between me and my father-in-lw.
purchase our wood.
We bought 6 cords for $800.00 but it from a friend who saves the scraps and sells after hes sold the
rest to mills. Been buying from him for 10+ years between me and my father-in-lw.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I need some help!
« on: January 09, 2015, 10:38:55 AM »
It does sound like your wood choice.
I've been burning tulip poplar for a month now. It burns great during the 30+ days but the last couple of
nights its been in single degrees and its been difficult.
Our burning practices are a little different, I batch burn and have a large water volume and my stove is inside my
outdoor shed. I load my stove (3) times per day with poplar on those cold days. If I were to use oak like last year
I add wood (2) times per day.
Sounds like your stove can keep up but just need hard woods.
I've been burning tulip poplar for a month now. It burns great during the 30+ days but the last couple of
nights its been in single degrees and its been difficult.
Our burning practices are a little different, I batch burn and have a large water volume and my stove is inside my
outdoor shed. I load my stove (3) times per day with poplar on those cold days. If I were to use oak like last year
I add wood (2) times per day.
Sounds like your stove can keep up but just need hard woods.
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Does anyone know where to get this seal?
« on: January 07, 2015, 10:49:22 AM »
Sorry, just have a few questions.
Is that Roxul on the inside of the door? It looks like someone may have built an enclosure around an
indoor unit?
What type of siding is being used on your unit? Is the angle iron sealed around the opening where the
siding meets? If not, it would be a good idea to caulk all areas not sealed.
My unit looks kind of like your unit but it's not the same brand.
Is that Roxul on the inside of the door? It looks like someone may have built an enclosure around an
indoor unit?
What type of siding is being used on your unit? Is the angle iron sealed around the opening where the
siding meets? If not, it would be a good idea to caulk all areas not sealed.
My unit looks kind of like your unit but it's not the same brand.
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Natural Draft Vs. Forced Air
« on: January 02, 2015, 05:59:28 AM »
My setup has draft and forced air as well.
I can either open the draft on the doors or use the forced air.
I've been experimenting with both this year and it seams the forced air is better for me.
You can always dampen the fan to blow the exact amount of air.
I can either open the draft on the doors or use the forced air.
I've been experimenting with both this year and it seams the forced air is better for me.
You can always dampen the fan to blow the exact amount of air.