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Messages - banjoman

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Testing / Re: What is this strange stuff???
« on: January 24, 2018, 03:21:39 AM »
The pump is on the back of the stove. It appears to be a 1 black pipe coming out of the stove where the stuff was clogged. The pipe and fittings were like new inside with no deteration. It almost looks like a film of sorts that was on the water and slowly tried to enter the pump inlet and hardened. Ive always used pro tech 300 that Alternative heating sells. Could that have somehow formed a film inside my water jacket? It would be interesting to have it analyzed to see what it is.

Testing / What is this strange stuff???
« on: January 23, 2018, 05:24:00 PM »
My stove stopped heating and after intensive searching found this stuff at the inlet of my pump. I had to drill part of it out then fished the remainder with a wire. It is hard and looks like it folded up as it entered the 1 pipe. Its color resembles the color of my stove chemical. Anyone got any ideas???

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Earth Outdoor 505
« on: January 27, 2015, 04:14:31 AM »
Keep it simple. That's just another place for possible trouble. Get a spare pump and blower fan to put on the shelf just for emergency.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Earth Outdoor 505
« on: January 26, 2015, 04:36:36 PM »
I agree with Scarface totally. I have been using mine (Rancher 365) for 3 years trouble free. I think this stove will outlast me. I used the piping that Central Boiler sells (Thermopex). Like Scarface said, don't skimp on the underground pipe. You can have the greatest stove available but the piping is the the lifeline to get the heat to the house. I have a friend that bought the Mt. Man 505 and he also has had no problems.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Insulating Earth Door?
« on: February 01, 2014, 03:45:26 PM »
I'll agree they should insulate them as they are built. We called Earth before we did our doors and they said it would add to the cost of the stove with materials and labor and they had never considered doing it but they did not see anything wrong with doing it to ours.  Our doors only cost a few bucks each for some metal and the kayowool.  Seems to me the more BTU's you can keep inside the stove the better. With the added insulation, our doors are just warm to touch.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Insulating Earth Door?
« on: February 01, 2014, 03:41:34 AM »
My friend and I insulated 3 Earth doors two years ago and they all worked fine. We spaced the inner part of the door out about two inches and filled them with kayowool high temp insulation. It made a huge difference in the door temp.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Starving for air?
« on: January 21, 2014, 05:43:12 PM »
I found if I push the wood farther to the back of the stove and pull hot coals to the front it helps. If new dry wood is near the flapper it draws too hard causing the flapping. I also installed a disc on the input of my fan to choke it down somewhat. I have mine set @ 1/2 closed.

Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Flapper gets stuck
« on: December 09, 2013, 01:40:28 PM »
Slide a paper clip onto the flapper which will raise it slightly. I have had one on mine for 2 years. It also helps to keep the fire from going out during warmer weather. Hope this helps.

I am not an authority on these by any means but I wrestled with this same thing last year. I was continually trying to control the constant fan on situation electrically. I fixed mine by installing an electrical bypass in the incoming water line. When the thermostat calls for heat, it opens the bypass and water flows through the heat exchanger. When thermostat is satisfied it closes the valve, bypassing water back to the stove. Heat inside the exchanger cools and the fan control is satisfied, turning off the fan.

I do disconnect the bypass valve during the summer eliminating cycling of the valve while using AC.

Hope this helps.

Electronics / Furnace Fan High Limit Problem
« on: November 05, 2012, 03:04:18 PM »
I need a little help with a problem I am having with the fan on my oil furnace since I installed the Hx in the plenum for my OWB.  As long as I keep the temp on my OWB around 145 deg. everything works fine. If I increase the temp above 150 the furnace fan won't turn off. It continues to blow heat even if I turn the thermostat off. I have to turn off the breaker to the furnace and let it cool down before it operates properly. I am sure it is the high limit seeing a higher than normal temperature causing it to run.

This is what I have found so far, the fan motor has lead designations "H,MH,ML,L,C". I have wires connected to "H,MH, and C". (red-orange-white). I have currently disconnected the orange wire (or MH) and it seems to work fine. The orange wire goes to the fan limit switch.

I really don't want to disable the fan limit switch or increase the temp setting if there is another solution as it is a safety device for the oil furnace. Anyone have a suggestion??  I do have a schematic for the furnace and can post it if needed.

Plumbing / Re: fitting heat exchanger into furnace
« on: October 01, 2012, 06:45:13 PM »
I have mine in the inlet side of the furnace and moved the filter back before the HX coil. I was wondering if the excess heat near the fan could be a future problem? I have had one episode that the fan would not turn off. I assume there is a thermal switch somewhere that is keeping the fan running when it sees a high temp. My furnace is a ThermoPride oil unit. Any ideas?

Plumbing / Re: Pex insulation wrap
« on: April 05, 2012, 05:06:19 PM »
Thanks for your input. Since you mentioned foam, I wondered how closed cell foam in rolls would be to wrap pex lines. I'm thinking maybe 1/4" thick.

Also how can water enter a closed pvc pipe? Does the heated pex pipes cause a condensation build up over time?

Plumbing / Pex insulation wrap
« on: April 04, 2012, 06:19:28 PM »
I plan to wrap my pex lines myself and put inside 6" pvc. I was wondering if anyone has used this product.


Their Prodex Total is 15/32 thick and claims R 15.67 insulation value.


Plumbing / Re: Armstrong pumps
« on: March 06, 2012, 07:31:53 PM »
Help please, I need someone to do the calculations for my owb. Piping is 160' round trip using 1" regular pex and approx 4' of lift. I am going through a filter,  5x12 heat plate, and a 18x18 heat coil. Any suggestion for the pump I will need?

Electronics / Re: Heat coil location
« on: March 01, 2012, 04:58:32 AM »
Thanks for the info, thats what I'll do. I will move the filter before the heat xchanger. Is there any moisture concerns with the heat xchanger that I need to be aware of (sweating etc. similar to my AC coil) ?

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