Outdoor Wood Furnace Info

General => General Discussion => Topic started by: coolidge on March 12, 2017, 10:15:34 AM

Title: Oil
Post by: coolidge on March 12, 2017, 10:15:34 AM
I see Mobil 1 has an oil that you can run all year long, no oil changes in cars and trucks anymore?
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: hoardac on March 12, 2017, 10:30:29 AM
20000 miles and you have to use their filter from what I understand. But still way better than the old days of 2500-3000 miles then it creeped up to 5000 then to 7500.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: mlappin on March 12, 2017, 05:45:42 PM
Amsoil has some for quite awhile now that you could go 15,000 miles and ditto you have to use their oil filter.
 

I’ve been getting 5000 miles between changes on the wife’s Jeep Liberty and the stuff is a dark brown then and not anywhere near black yet and that’s running straight dinosaur. I think a lot of these newer engines have tighter tolerances from the factory so not near as much blowby and therefore less contamination of the oil.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: BIG AL on March 13, 2017, 03:03:31 PM
I have an 08 Tacoma that has had mobile 1 5w-30 in it since day one. I change it every 10K not really even that dirty.Granted that is about once a year we don't really drive it much , try to keep it nice for when we don't want to take the work trucks. Don't have to worry about the gmc oil getting dirty it leaks about 3 qt between oil changes so it's always clean :bash:
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: hoardac on March 13, 2017, 04:30:49 PM
Big Al I let my kid inherit the Dodge 2500 quart of oil every 3 or 4 hundred miles lol. Been doing that for 10 years does not get any worse.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: BIG AL on March 13, 2017, 08:08:20 PM
15-20 years ago you could get to the valve covers to change the gaskets and stop the leak. Now it's cheaper to let it leak than spend a whole day trying to fix it. Can you tell I love technology ;)
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: mlappin on March 14, 2017, 07:00:12 AM
15-20 years ago you could get to the valve covers to change the gaskets and stop the leak. Now it's cheaper to let it leak than spend a whole day trying to fix it. Can you tell I love technology ;)

The wife has a leaky valve cover on herJeep, I already did the easy side and it sucked.

A friend is driving a newer Ford car, water pump is out, $70 for the pump, $1500 in labor to change it, buried somewhere in the motor. I can do one in a 5.9 Cummins in less than 30 minutes.

Just gotta love some of this new crap, the engineer that designed that Ford engine needs castrated before he can further pollute the gene pool.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: kommandokenny on March 14, 2017, 11:24:04 AM
15-20 years ago you could get to the valve covers to change the gaskets and stop the leak. Now it's cheaper to let it leak than spend a whole day trying to fix it. Can you tell I love technology ;)



 
 that Ford engine needs castrated before he can further pollute the gene pool.

Thats a funny damn analogy!!!
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: aarmga on March 14, 2017, 10:10:27 PM
The wife's new yoda runs 0w-20 Mobil 1.  Like damn water if u ask me.  Toyota says 10k between oil changes and they won't change the oil (first 2 are free) if you're not somewhere in the 9000+ range.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: kommandokenny on March 16, 2017, 06:31:51 AM
Better than the old days.
Ran different oil weights at different times of year.
Crawled around under cars and motorcycles every time the weather changed,,, or you got a couple thou on the the oil.
Multigrades and now synthetics .. easy starts.... once twice a year.....it's xmas
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: MattyNH on March 18, 2017, 10:02:32 PM
I see Mobil 1 has an oil that you can run all year long, no oil changes in cars and trucks anymore?
According to Mobile web sight..Mobile still recommends to follow factory recommendations in the owner manual while the vehicle is still under warranty..Either way warranty or not. No way changing oil at 20k or a year. 10 yrs from now ya it could be 20k for a oil change
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: aarmga on March 19, 2017, 01:59:21 AM
10k miles on a new vehicle is no problem. Engines these days are so clean running and so efficient from what they were even 10 years ago, thanks to the good ol EPA playing a part in this our wood stoves are on the same path.  There is a company called black stone laboratories that will test your oil for you after it's used and tell you what's in it, how much life is left in the oil, what additives are left in the oil and how much, if your engine is wearing something that's not supposed to be wearing out, they can tell you how well your oil filter is cleaning, they can even tell you what kind of gasoline you use by the additives in the different types of gasoline. My drag strip car ended up having a slightly leaky head stud and black stone caught it because there was slightly elevated coolant levels in the oil, tiny traces, parts per million. After 10k miles on my wife's Toyota that oil could go another 5k (so they say at blackstone) without having to worry about anything, that is the cheapest off the shelf Mobil 1 available, not taking brad penn or amsoil.  3000 and 5000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past.  It's the oil filters that are holding us back from 20k OCI not the oil.  That being said, stay away from fram filters.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: MattyNH on March 19, 2017, 07:17:48 AM
10k miles on a new vehicle is no problem. Engines these days are so clean running and so efficient from what they were even 10 years ago, thanks to the good ol EPA playing a part in this our wood stoves are on the same path.  There is a company called black stone laboratories that will test your oil for you after it's used and tell you what's in it, how much life is left in the oil, what additives are left in the oil and how much, if your engine is wearing something that's not supposed to be wearing out, they can tell you how well your oil filter is cleaning, they can even tell you what kind of gasoline you use by the additives in the different types of gasoline. My drag strip car ended up having a slightly leaky head stud and black stone caught it because there was slightly elevated coolant levels in the oil, tiny traces, parts per million. After 10k miles on my wife's Toyota that oil could go another 5k (so they say at blackstone) without having to worry about anything, that is the cheapest off the shelf Mobil 1 available, not taking brad penn or amsoil.  3000 and 5000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past.  It's the oil filters that are holding us back from 20k OCI not the oil.  That being said, stay away from fram filters.
My brother inlaw has used that labatory a few times.. He changes oil every 10k
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: mlappin on March 19, 2017, 07:24:47 AM
10k miles on a new vehicle is no problem. Engines these days are so clean running and so efficient from what they were even 10 years ago, thanks to the good ol EPA playing a part in this our wood stoves are on the same path.  There is a company called black stone laboratories that will test your oil for you after it's used and tell you what's in it, how much life is left in the oil, what additives are left in the oil and how much, if your engine is wearing something that's not supposed to be wearing out, they can tell you how well your oil filter is cleaning, they can even tell you what kind of gasoline you use by the additives in the different types of gasoline. My drag strip car ended up having a slightly leaky head stud and black stone caught it because there was slightly elevated coolant levels in the oil, tiny traces, parts per million. After 10k miles on my wife's Toyota that oil could go another 5k (so they say at blackstone) without having to worry about anything, that is the cheapest off the shelf Mobil 1 available, not taking brad penn or amsoil.  3000 and 5000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past.  It's the oil filters that are holding us back from 20k OCI not the oil.  That being said, stay away from fram filters.

I’m gonna start doing more oil sampling especially of hydraulic oil. Wasn’t bad on the older tractors when it took maybe 5 gallons to change all the hydraulic oil out, these newer ones run a common sump on the transmissions now, use Hy Trans for hydraulic oil and gear lube, changing 5 gallons is one thing even if it didn’t “need it” but almost using up a fifty five gallon drum of oil for one tractor to change the front and rear is quite a different story especially if you have three tractors like that.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: aarmga on March 19, 2017, 12:51:04 PM
10k miles on a new vehicle is no problem. Engines these days are so clean running and so efficient from what they were even 10 years ago, thanks to the good ol EPA playing a part in this our wood stoves are on the same path.  There is a company called black stone laboratories that will test your oil for you after it's used and tell you what's in it, how much life is left in the oil, what additives are left in the oil and how much, if your engine is wearing something that's not supposed to be wearing out, they can tell you how well your oil filter is cleaning, they can even tell you what kind of gasoline you use by the additives in the different types of gasoline. My drag strip car ended up having a slightly leaky head stud and black stone caught it because there was slightly elevated coolant levels in the oil, tiny traces, parts per million. After 10k miles on my wife's Toyota that oil could go another 5k (so they say at blackstone) without having to worry about anything, that is the cheapest off the shelf Mobil 1 available, not taking brad penn or amsoil.  3000 and 5000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past.  It's the oil filters that are holding us back from 20k OCI not the oil.  That being said, stay away from fram filters.

I’m gonna start doing more oil sampling especially of hydraulic oil. Wasn’t bad on the older tractors when it took maybe 5 gallons to change all the hydraulic oil out, these newer ones run a common sump on the transmissions now, use Hy Trans for hydraulic oil and gear lube, changing 5 gallons is one thing even if it didn’t “need it” but almost using up a fifty five gallon drum of oil for one tractor to change the front and rear is quite a different story especially if you have three tractors like that.

I can imagine that gets over the 2000 dollar price tag.  Wouldn't want to do it either.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: mlappin on March 19, 2017, 10:36:51 PM
10k miles on a new vehicle is no problem. Engines these days are so clean running and so efficient from what they were even 10 years ago, thanks to the good ol EPA playing a part in this our wood stoves are on the same path.  There is a company called black stone laboratories that will test your oil for you after it's used and tell you what's in it, how much life is left in the oil, what additives are left in the oil and how much, if your engine is wearing something that's not supposed to be wearing out, they can tell you how well your oil filter is cleaning, they can even tell you what kind of gasoline you use by the additives in the different types of gasoline. My drag strip car ended up having a slightly leaky head stud and black stone caught it because there was slightly elevated coolant levels in the oil, tiny traces, parts per million. After 10k miles on my wife's Toyota that oil could go another 5k (so they say at blackstone) without having to worry about anything, that is the cheapest off the shelf Mobil 1 available, not taking brad penn or amsoil.  3000 and 5000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past.  It's the oil filters that are holding us back from 20k OCI not the oil.  That being said, stay away from fram filters.

I’m gonna start doing more oil sampling especially of hydraulic oil. Wasn’t bad on the older tractors when it took maybe 5 gallons to change all the hydraulic oil out, these newer ones run a common sump on the transmissions now, use Hy Trans for hydraulic oil and gear lube, changing 5 gallons is one thing even if it didn’t “need it” but almost using up a fifty five gallon drum of oil for one tractor to change the front and rear is quite a different story especially if you have three tractors like that.

I can imagine that gets over the 2000 dollar price tag.  Wouldn't want to do it either.

And its messy as well, front transmission holds like 22 gallons and the rear holds 26, nice big drain plug as well so it comes out like a fire hose, better have at least five empty 5 gallon buckets ready. If this was an all the time kinda thing I’d take about the bottom foot of a fifty five gallon drum and plumb a pump into the bottom and hopefully suck it out and into the waste oil burner storage as fast as it drains.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: kommandokenny on March 22, 2017, 04:26:50 PM
10k miles on a new vehicle  That being said, stay away from fram filters.

Whats wrong with fram filters??
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: aarmga on March 25, 2017, 03:47:49 PM
Probably one of the worst you can put on your engine.  Little filter area and cardboard flow back rings.  Not something I'd invest in.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: BIG AL on March 26, 2017, 08:18:58 AM
I buy all my filters for the year all at once from Filter1.com. They only sell Wix filters which seem good to me. They have really good prices as compared to any place around here.
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: aarmga on March 26, 2017, 10:46:46 AM
Wix filters are definitely good quality filters. 
Title: Re: Oil
Post by: mlappin on March 27, 2017, 10:01:38 AM
I buy all my filters for the year all at once from Filter1.com. They only sell Wix filters which seem good to me. They have really good prices as compared to any place around here.

Not sure about other peoples usage, but if you’re buying over $500 a year in Wix filters they have a discount program you can sign up  for, spring sale also applies as well. A few weeks back I restocked the shelves in the shop, had 2 1/2 of those plastic boxes they ship parts in. I have a spreadsheet I print out for filters, filter number, number in  stock, number needed last column is to order, fill it out and drop it off at our parts store and they get em ordered.