Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: Mr. Maple on December 14, 2017, 09:57:38 AM
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I believe it was CountryboyJohn who told me this when I was looking to replace previous furnace. Last evening was our first major chill of the winter,down to -31 with the wind chill. I put in two wheelbarrow loads of mostly maple last evening,now 14 hours later and still not needing wood. On previous nights to this with similar loads,would be needing to add wood after 14 hours,even though it was milder outside. I had thought maybe I had the draft adjustment set to high and blowing heat up the stack. I will be taking stack temperatures with an infra red gun over the holidays,with different settings to see if there is much of a difference in heat loss.
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I was informed and criticized by many folks that a flue temp is actually double what the outer wall of the (single wall) stack pipe reads, and that my IR measurement of 400-500 was worthless. After installing a real thermometer with a 4" probe about a month ago, the highest I've seen so far has been about 445 with a raging load of cardboard but a typical high temp of 425-430 on wood. Gonna have to be careful with that around here! My temps don't change but a couple degrees with draft adjustment, but I have noticed that they tend to burn more efficiently when they are always working instead of idling all the time. Seems they'll burn the wood anyway, whether it's cold or not so it seems a guy gets better mileage from cold weather. I think anyway
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I am also running a C375 and I think your on with you stack temps. Let them criticize or be jealous.
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I have a G200, however my wife and I have the same observation... seems like. When it’s wicked cold, the boiler uses less wood?
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I've noticed a G burns cleaner the harder it's pulled. Plus I think the dry winter air makes it run better. Wood is freeze dried too.
Seems like the foggy damp spring or fall day it smokes the most.