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31
Portage & Main / Re: Bl2840 idle temp climbing
« on: December 27, 2014, 08:38:55 PM »
One thing that may be contributing to your temperature climb is your adjuster plate on your blower. It seems like this would draft more air than a leaky gasket. The blower is open by design. Depending on where you run your adjuster plate is set, i.e. if its wide open, then on a warm day this may be a big factor.
That being said, where do you guys typically run yours at? Personally, I run mine only about a 1/4 of the way open. Yes this does slow the recovery down a bit but it also allows more dwell time in the heat exchanger and ultimately should allow one to burn less wood.....how much less, I don't know.
Cando
That being said, where do you guys typically run yours at? Personally, I run mine only about a 1/4 of the way open. Yes this does slow the recovery down a bit but it also allows more dwell time in the heat exchanger and ultimately should allow one to burn less wood.....how much less, I don't know.
Cando
32
Site Suggestions / No upload memory
« on: December 22, 2014, 07:17:44 PM »
I've tried to upload a few photos the last couple of days and I keep getting an error message that the storage is full, contact administrator. I tried reducing the photo size several times (last was 109KB). What gives.
Cando
Cando
33
WoodMaster / Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« on: December 22, 2014, 07:11:17 PM »
Absolutely agree with Slim. You have two options:
1.) Install a small circulation pump on the hot water tank so it pumps the water through the HX
2.) Change the HX to a true sidearm style, which is built to better facilitate convective heat transfer, i.e. longer/taller design so that it starts to pulls cold water from the bottom and dumps hot water out the top (much like a tall chimney drafts)
Cando
1.) Install a small circulation pump on the hot water tank so it pumps the water through the HX
2.) Change the HX to a true sidearm style, which is built to better facilitate convective heat transfer, i.e. longer/taller design so that it starts to pulls cold water from the bottom and dumps hot water out the top (much like a tall chimney drafts)
Cando
34
Plumbing / Re: FPHX Question
« on: December 20, 2014, 05:53:30 AM »
Start with doing one at a time. Your HX should be large enough. I would first start by increasing the flow on the boiler side. Overall, this is going to take some effort due to the fact that you're attempting to get your baseboard side temp so close to your feed temperature on the boiler side.
As stated previously, another way to get the temp up on the baseboard side of the HX would be to lower the flow rate of that side.
Cando
As stated previously, another way to get the temp up on the baseboard side of the HX would be to lower the flow rate of that side.
Cando
35
This is not a hijacking........
Cando - I see you are in central OH, where at, if I may ask? I'm close to Lima.
Morning Chicken Farmer,
Perhaps southern Ohio is more representative. I live south of Columbus down around Chillicothe. I typically head your way a few times during the winter, on my way to the upper, lower point of Michigan to do a little sleddin (Ski-doo style)
Cando
36
You can absolutely use it for an on-demand setup. I essentially have mine setup as such only the exchanger is located prior to the tank, so that it dumps hot water into the tank and I have killed the breaker for my hot water heater. My tank now is just a storage tank. With this setup, the exchanger puts out water in the 130-140F range and will continue to do so as long as there's wood in the stove.
If you have it located after the tank then you really need to ensure you have some sort of tempering valve as you will see much more significant temperature variation. This is due to the fact that the temperature exiting the exchanger on the potable side is proportional to the flow rate of that water going through the exchanger. Thus when you're in the bathroom perhaps shaving with the hot water on running slow, this water has a much longer residence time in the exchanger and will be much hotter than when water is full on say when you're filling a bath tub.
I can snap a picture of my setup if you like.
Cando
If you have it located after the tank then you really need to ensure you have some sort of tempering valve as you will see much more significant temperature variation. This is due to the fact that the temperature exiting the exchanger on the potable side is proportional to the flow rate of that water going through the exchanger. Thus when you're in the bathroom perhaps shaving with the hot water on running slow, this water has a much longer residence time in the exchanger and will be much hotter than when water is full on say when you're filling a bath tub.
I can snap a picture of my setup if you like.
Cando
37
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heat Loss Question??
« on: December 19, 2014, 05:10:21 PM »
There absolutely would be some appreciable heat loss; however, as I've given this some thought in my own setup, I've come to the following conclusion: as long as I'm trying to heat the house, then losing heat to the space that I'm trying to heat anyway, is not a real concern. If this were in the off season and let's say I was only trying to heat my DHW, then this heat loss would be more meaningful because I probably don't want to be dumping heat into the house.
In the end it's probably best to simply insulate it.
Cando
In the end it's probably best to simply insulate it.
Cando
38
Plumbing / Re: Good laugh
« on: December 18, 2014, 06:25:30 PM »
......."Clark, those little lights aren't twinkling.............no, no they're not.....thanks for noticing aunt Bethany"......
39
Plumbing / Re: FPHX Question
« on: December 18, 2014, 06:20:43 PM »Hi folks, I am by no means a plumber or an expert in this stuff but I know there are a lot of people in here who are a lot smarter than I am so here goes; I have the CB 1" Thermopex piping with a Taco 009-F5 circ at the OWB. The HX is approx. 75 feet from the OWB. The high set point is 190 at the OWB and approx. a degree or 2 loss before the HX. The HX is a 50 plate, 12X5 brazed HX. The water temp out of the HX is 170. Because I'm using baseboard emitters I'd like to get that temp up some (ideal would be 180 after the HX) what size HX would you recommend that I replace it with to achieve a 180 degree temp (10 degree delta T) out of the HX?
I'm learning so much from you guys in this site but I still have questions & concerns about things so don't be surprised if you see me asking more questions in the future. My younger bro and I built an apartment on the second floor of my house for him and one thing I have learned from that project, I HATE PLUMBING! Roger
Hi Roger,
Just a couple of thoughts..........as you stated the incoming water temperature from boiler is around 188-190 with temp drop. Your target for your exit temp on the baseboard side is 180. As these two temps approach each other, the required heat transfer area goes up significantly. As Slim stated, you can increase flow on the boiler side and increase plate size. Another way to get temp up is to reduce flow on the baseboard side although I'm not sure if that is an option in your case.
Also, not sure where your differential is set but if 190 is the max, and the differential is anywhere near the 8-10 range it says that on average your true water temperature will be right in the middle of these two points.
Can't help but comment on the tractor thingy
" A good day for me is piddling in the woods on tractor, cutting & gathering a little firewood for the boiler"
Reds my color........Farmall style
Cando
Cando
40
Hi Easy,
Having just installed a plate exchanger for my DHW, last weekend, I was very recently in your shoes. At first I was doing some soul-searching (as well as OWFI.com searching) and finally came to the conclusion that I wanted to install a plate style heat exchanger. My next dilemma was size (20 or 30 plate).
After reading all the posts I could on this site, and hearing guys state things like " a 20 plate will make all the hot water you want", I decided to take a stab at a 20 plate (make sure it's a 5"x12". Let me say that those guys were right and a 20 plate will do all that I want and then some. I have mine set up such that the exchanger is located before the tank for buffering reasons. Note that I do not have a mixing valve. I control the water temperature coming off the exchanger by controlling the flow of water going to the exchanger on the boiler side.
With a plate exchanger, the potable water side only goes through the exchanger one time and the temperature you get on the exit side is what you get. I guess you could hook one up with a pump and have it act like a side arm. With a sidearm, the potable water either by convection or forced via pump, goes through the exchanger many times. It needs to do this due to the fact that the heat transfer rate is not as significant as a plate setup. This is the reason why sidearm (non pump setups) need a "recovery" period and are more prone to temperature fluctuations.
Anyway, I've rambled on enough.
Hope this helps,
Cando
Having just installed a plate exchanger for my DHW, last weekend, I was very recently in your shoes. At first I was doing some soul-searching (as well as OWFI.com searching) and finally came to the conclusion that I wanted to install a plate style heat exchanger. My next dilemma was size (20 or 30 plate).
After reading all the posts I could on this site, and hearing guys state things like " a 20 plate will make all the hot water you want", I decided to take a stab at a 20 plate (make sure it's a 5"x12". Let me say that those guys were right and a 20 plate will do all that I want and then some. I have mine set up such that the exchanger is located before the tank for buffering reasons. Note that I do not have a mixing valve. I control the water temperature coming off the exchanger by controlling the flow of water going to the exchanger on the boiler side.
With a plate exchanger, the potable water side only goes through the exchanger one time and the temperature you get on the exit side is what you get. I guess you could hook one up with a pump and have it act like a side arm. With a sidearm, the potable water either by convection or forced via pump, goes through the exchanger many times. It needs to do this due to the fact that the heat transfer rate is not as significant as a plate setup. This is the reason why sidearm (non pump setups) need a "recovery" period and are more prone to temperature fluctuations.
Anyway, I've rambled on enough.
Hope this helps,
Cando
41
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Btus
« on: December 15, 2014, 08:23:14 PM »Is there a way to figure how many btus your furnace is actually producing?
Assuming that you're talking about your furnace opposed to your boiler, there's two things you need to know to determine the btu rating: temperature change (delta t) and flow rate of air (cfm). By looking at the specific heat capacity of air at these two temperatures and knowing the delta t, you can calculate the btu output.
Cando
42
General Discussion / Re: building a horse and evrything barn
« on: December 14, 2014, 08:10:40 PM »
Check out Barn pros and Morton buildings. They have hundreds of pictures to look at for ideas.
43
Site Suggestions / Re: Cant login
« on: December 12, 2014, 06:19:51 PM »
I too was locked out for several days. I was trying to login where you first enter the website where it welcomes you. It kept telling me that my username or password was incorrect. Finally clicked on the "login" text word among the choices at the top of the website and voila, I'm back in.
I was starting to give up.......but then thought hell, I'm cando attitude...I can't give up.
Seriously, Mr. Moderator, there's something going on here.
cando
I was starting to give up.......but then thought hell, I'm cando attitude...I can't give up.
Seriously, Mr. Moderator, there's something going on here.
cando
44
Portage & Main / Re: Bad aqua stat?
« on: December 03, 2014, 06:08:33 PM »
Sorry to hear that UPonthehill. Let us know how you make out with this repair. For each of us that have not experienced a breakdown yet, it's coming. Let's learn from each other.
45
Portage & Main / Re: blower motor failure
« on: November 29, 2014, 05:22:47 AM »
I too was thinking of keeping a spare fan on hand. What do they cost from the factory and are their less expensive (of same quality) units out there on the web?