Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: FlowerFarm on October 15, 2017, 03:34:40 PM
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Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and still reading around old topics. But I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on which Pex may be the best for my situation? I read through the option for direct burial, but don't really have a great local option for a foaming contractor. That being said my local Heatmaster dealer sells the Logstor 1.25" for about $13 a foot. I also have access to ThermoPex 1" for $11 a foot, or I see that this website, http://www.freeheat4u.com/REHAU-1-INCH-INSULATED-FOAM-FILLED-UNDERGROUND-PIPE_p_41.html (http://www.freeheat4u.com/REHAU-1-INCH-INSULATED-FOAM-FILLED-UNDERGROUND-PIPE_p_41.html) is selling their 1 inch at $8.99 a foot.
I am looking at 225' of pipe from my boiler to the house. From what I can see everyone prefers the 1.25" for larger distances, but is $4 a foot worth it?
Thanks for your thoughts
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1" is too small for that distance. 1" logstor would be ok though since it is larger.
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Why so rediculously far away?
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Jeff at freeheat4u is great to deal with! But keep in mind that $8.99 doesn't cover shipping. 1" will cover a small heat load, but generally speaking the requirements for a house will require 1-1/4" on a distance like that
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We are using it to heat our house and two high tunnels. The placement is in the barn lean-to for access to covered wood, and is much closer to the high tunnels (greenhouses) that it will be heating. Also, we have to come up behind the house for cellar access.
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We are using it to heat our house and two high tunnels. The placement is in the barn lean-to for access to covered wood, and is much closer to the high tunnels (greenhouses) that it will be heating. Also, we have to come up behind the house for cellar access.
Ah…I take it the “front” of the house has a crawl space or slab preventing access to the basement? Doesn’t take a lot to get a surprising number of feet in a hurry.
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We are using it to heat our house and two high tunnels. The placement is in the barn lean-to for access to covered wood, and is much closer to the high tunnels (greenhouses) that it will be heating. Also, we have to come up behind the house for cellar access.
Ah…I take it the “front” of the house has a crawl space or slab preventing access to the basement? Doesn’t take a lot to get a surprising number of feet in a hurry.
Exactly. And it seems like everyone is recommending sticking to the logstor. I'm glad this is just a one time expense.
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We are using it to heat our house and two high tunnels. The placement is in the barn lean-to for access to covered wood, and is much closer to the high tunnels (greenhouses) that it will be heating. Also, we have to come up behind the house for cellar access.
Ah…I take it the “front” of the house has a crawl space or slab preventing access to the basement? Doesn’t take a lot to get a surprising number of feet in a hurry.
Exactly. And it seems like everyone is recommending sticking to the logstor. I'm glad this is just a one time expense.
Yah, I bought 250 foot of the stuff when I redid mine.
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1" is too small for that distance. 1" logstor would be ok though since it is larger.
. Wow my math is out of wack...up here 1 inch is..…is 1 inch ..unless of course were talking ...err our tally Wacker's lol
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I went with the 1 1/4 Rheau, 180ft total....good tough crap there!!!!!!!!!!! ::) 8)
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1" is too small for that distance. 1" logstor would be ok though since it is larger.
. Wow my math is out of wack...up here 1 inch is..…is 1 inch ..unless of course were talking ...err our tally Wacker's lol
Lol, the problem is that Logstor isn't 1", it is metric. If they did use the metric sizing, and converted it, it would be 1-1/4" since the metric is sold by outside diameter. (32mm)
Regular pex is the same outside diameter as copper pipe and that is where the size label comes from. It obviously has to have a thicker wall than copper so you end up with a smaller ID. (wall thickness is a ratio of diameter)
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1" is too small for that distance. 1" logstor would be ok though since it is larger.
. Wow my math is out of wack...up here 1 inch is..…is 1 inch ..unless of course were talking ...err our tally Wacker's lol
Lol, the problem is that Logstor isn't 1", it is metric. If they did use the metric sizing, and converted it, it would be 1-1/4" since the metric is sold by outside diameter. (32mm)
Regular pex is the same outside diameter as copper pipe and that is where the size label comes from. It obviously has to have a thicker wall than copper so you end up with a smaller ID. (wall thickness is a ratio of diameter)
Yep, one inch PEX is measured by OD, its the same as coper pipe, ID is more like 7/8”. You wouldn’t think 1/8” would matter that much, but it does when you start to do the math.
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Yep, one inch PEX is measured by OD, its the same as coper pipe, ID is more like 7/8”. You wouldn’t think 1/8” would matter that much, but it does when you start to do the math.
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ACTUALLY, copper pipe is measured ID. 1" L copper is full port, with a 1-1/8" OD. 1" PEX also has a 1-1/8" OD, but a 7/8" ID because they measure to the center of the walls to get the 1" figure. Just saying. Ever see how refrigeration pipe and fittings go by 1/8ths? That's because reefer is measured OD to avoid confusion (yeah right) with regular Type M or L. 1-1/8" ACR pipe is exactly the same size as 1" Type L
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1" copper is not all the same size ID. M,L K, are all different sizes ID. The outside is always the same 1/8" more than labeled size.
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1" copper is not all the same size ID. M,L K, are all different sizes ID. The outside is always the same 1/8" more than labeled size.
You're correct. Type L is full 1" ID. All I ever use is L, so I had forgotten about the other thicknesses. Good catch!
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What’s the longest run you guys recommend for 1” pex?
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What flow rate are you aiming for?
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Yeah, we need a little more information. A standard forced air coil and domestic exchanger boiler loop setup I jump to 1-1/4" at around 300ft round trip. Have seen plenty with longer loops, but it'll depend on your exchangers, pump size, heat load, type of heating system, etc.