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1

Heatmor / Re: Heatmor Manuel 2015

« on: November 12, 2015, 07:15:48 AM »

I too just got a new 400....manual was very helpful. I'm really excited to fire this bad boy up...just finished the intall last week

Awesome. I'm at the point of fitting the new 400css to my old 200css cement base its 17 inches longer. Going to make steel construction to make up the 17 inchs . I'm also updating somebof my plumbing also so its going to be a big job . I have 3 zones coming off boiler . 2 house and good size shop. I will be putting the 400css to the test. Have 16 cord of oak about 1/2 dry all ready. If the old 200 css could do it the 400css will make it less trips to the stove is the goal. 

Heat550

Heat550:
Great to hear you are going to the larger boiler--let us know how things work with the 400-pictures would be awsome!

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Heatmor / Re: Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: November 12, 2015, 06:30:47 AM »

what year is the 400?? i am a bit confused about the smoke tubes....i believe the new model i have just has one exchange pass thru the water jacket from back to front.

One upgrade that i did was hooking up a Ranco digital aquastat....much easier to get control of the boiler...i like setting my differential exactly to where i want it...within 1 degree

I have dual 8" diameter smoke tubes leading from the front of the boiler to the rear where the pass thru turns upward into the chimney exhaust.    There is a removable cover plate for a clean out and some type of fiberglass or ceramic insulation (Picture) which you can see is burned thru or eaten up by no ash cleaning by previous owners.  I am thinking it is a mid 80's model-s/n is un-readable.
I am thinking that a Ranco DTA is something to incorporate into my boiler as well for the accuracy.
I still keep reading for other improvements as well!

3

Heatmor / Re: Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: November 05, 2015, 07:38:17 AM »

Cranky, I would think that perhaps in your rebuild, a motorized damper in the stack might be a good experiment to slow some of the heat loss up the stack when the unit is in the off mode? It may creosote up so make it easy to clean but I would bet it would be worthwhile!

SJ:
Thanks for the advise on the damper-well worth consideration as you are probably correct on the cresote effect with the quality of wood I will be using.  Will try to get pictures when I get rolling on the project-had some set-backs this summer-so looks to be a next year project WIP!   Thanks much for all your input on this and other forums as you have a vast knowledge base and share with all............Cranky

4

Heatmor / Re: Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: March 24, 2015, 06:44:47 AM »

Thanks to all members for the timely information so far--still lurking on all sites to gather any/all information and looking forward to warmer weather to get started with the tear down and rebuild!!!   Come-on-summer!!!

5

Heatmor / Re: 409 SS vs. Mild Steel

« on: March 07, 2015, 06:25:20 AM »

Purchased a Woodmor 400 last year with the S/S 409 interior-this was a older unit and the previous owner looks to have taken good care(water treatment and good maint.)  I don't know how this compares to mild steel units?    I purchased the unit to heat with and the only thing that I noticed was the back, removable clean out plate(Mild steel-not s/s-3/16") was eroded thru in several spots from the fly ash setting in the exhaust tubes in down time(Summer)--this door even had a thin piece of waffle type insulation against the fly ash side which did not prevent erosion!  I'm currently trying to find a 1/4" thick piece of 409 s/s to replace this with-checked all the salvage yards in my area to no avail--most stuff they get in is restaurant grade(309) which is much thinner.  I think the 8" exhaust tubes in my unit are made from 409 s/s as they look to be in excellent condition when cleaned out and inspected.   Don't know if this helps your decision making process?

I tried to post a picture of the part in question on the previous posting and the site said it was full???

6

Heatmor / Re: 409 SS vs. Mild Steel

« on: March 07, 2015, 06:23:14 AM »

Purchased a Woodmor 400 last year with the S/S 409 interior-this was a older unit and the previous owner looks to have taken good care(water treatment and good maint.)  I don't know how this compares to mild steel units?    I purchased the unit to heat with and the only thing that I noticed was the back, removable clean out plate(Mild steel-not s/s-3/16") was eroded thru in several spots from the fly ash setting in the exhaust tubes in down time(Summer)--this door even had a thin piece of waffle type insulation against the fly ash side which did not prevent erosion!  I'm currently trying to find a 1/4" thick piece of 409 s/s to replace this with-checked all the salvage yards in my area to no avail--most stuff they get in is restaurant grade(309) which is much thinner.  I think the 8" exhaust tubes in my unit are made from 409 s/s as they look to be in excellent condition when cleaned out and inspected.   Don't know if this helps your decision making process?

7

Heatmor / Re: Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: March 07, 2015, 05:56:04 AM »

Thanks to all of the answers so far--looking to get started on my refurb. of my 400.  Glad to hear about the firebrick idea on top of the sand--are you referring to put brick in the two 8" dia. smoke tubes prior to the exhaust stack to capture more heat before exhausting?  I talked to someone who did a stainless steel 3/4" I.D.pipe and did a loop from the top of the stack, down thru both exhaust pipes and plumbed it back into the tank--don't think I have pictures of their set-up???   I think that might work as long as you don't capture too much exhaust heat and wind up with a creosote build up and goo running down the roof top!   This is just my thought process as I am still researching for any good information.   I will take pictures and post same when I make some progress-meantime I keep reading and learning from all owners.  Great site here and love to get feedback!!!.........Cranky

8

Equipment / Re: Question for Skid Steer Owners

« on: March 07, 2015, 04:38:59 AM »

Just a newbie innocent bystander here--don't have my OWB in operation yet--considering a skid-steer purchase down the road and was wondering what the maintenance costs are on WHEEL units vs the TRACKED units as the ones with the original rollers etc.   I have seen a lot of used over the wheel types rubber tracks that can be fitted over a wheel unit-looks to elevate the machine up for ground clearance-adds some dirt/sand/poo goo to the tire area/wheels etc. on the other hand the regular tracked machines that I see used on CL can already have the rollers/brngs/sprockets replaced with 600 hours.  Seems to me the tracked machines are at a premium to purchase up front and require more $$ for up-keep costs, but is the most desired machine due to the added traction and other handling considerations.  If one purchases a unit and keeps the machine clean-whether it is wheeled/tracked and performs the required manintenance one should expect a return on that investment.  Just my two cents worth-hope that I am not confusing anything on the thread and not anyway related to the tractor/skid steer discussion.

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Heatmor / Re: Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: February 20, 2015, 01:39:54 PM »

Have plenty of time remaining--any comments from anyone???   Just trying to obtain useful info for future reference.  102 reads and no comments???   Cranky

10

General Discussion / Re: Sick of tarps!

« on: November 29, 2014, 06:21:36 AM »

Well I've had my OWB since like 2007 or so, and honestly... I don't seem to come on here much during the off season.  I have other things to worry about besides my OWB.

But this year I finally decided to do away with:
Lifting the tarp off the woodpile, only to have snow slide down my back
Having the tarp freeze to the ground
Pulling the tarp and hearing the rrrrriiiiippp sound
Trying to keep the tarp down in high wind
Getting soaking wet while loading the stove in that wet snowy mix
The list goes on and on...

So this year, I ended up getting a carport.  It's 7-1/2' high at the sides, 24' wide and about 22' long.
I had a bunch of sheet steel left over from a pole barn build so I only had to buy the frame.  I still have to stack abunch of wood inside it that you can see in the picture, add in some ceiling lights, and I'm also going to enclose the front side with an entry door, but should be able to get that done here before the snow flies.

This year will be so much more enjoyable going out to the stove!

If you don't mind disclosing--where did you purchase the framework from and the approx. cost$$$?

11

Testing / tests

« on: November 29, 2014, 05:58:49 AM »

 

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Heatmor / Refurbishing older model 400 css

« on: November 23, 2014, 08:46:54 PM »

Had a few questions from anyone out there that has re-worked any of this model of boiler.  What type of smoke tube insulation will prevent burn thru of the mild steel 3/16" plate for both tubes?  What I removed looked to be waffle shaped with a yellow fiberglass center core and was completely hard as a rock.  Was possibly thinking of using 1/4" thick 409 S/S without any insulation or 1400 degree 3/8 high temp glass??  Smoke tubes were both 2/3 full of ash which probably contributed to the burn thru with acidic action??  Also has anyone used firebrick to line the perimeter around the gratebox instead of using masonary sand?  Thinking the bricks would hold a lot more heat as a heat sink than sand and would not plug the grating???  Plan on stripping down the exterior sheet metal next spring and checking the insulation and water jacket exterior, top of smoke tubes and welds in general, smoke stack, annode rod, fill/overflow porting.  Both acqua stats, temp guage, door gasket & hoses will be replaced and 1/4 turn valves will be added for the door hoses.  General cleaning with pressure washer and new high temp. primer and paint job added.  Ash box/air tube and fan box seem to be in good shape/some rust-will be cleaned and re-painted-grates are not warped and no cracks-seem to be in excellent shape.  Water overflow inner tube was plugged up with some rust and particles-looked to be additive substance-no dry rot-cleaned up and was pressure checked-no leakage.  No cresote build up inside to speak of and none on the roof from overflow so stove was in pretty good shape.  Would appreciate any pointers from any/all WoodMor owners as I will post more as I move thru this project-not in a big rush as my time frame is over the next two years for a total install.  Thanks-------Cranky

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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: creosote

« on: November 22, 2014, 07:18:02 PM »

Late to the party--does anyone know if this applies to SS water jackets or only for mild steel???

14

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Grounding OWB?

« on: November 22, 2014, 06:42:18 PM »

Seems that I read in a owner's manual that you need two (2) ground wires spaced 10' apart.  As most OWB's are setting out in the open and even if they are grounded back to the electrical wiring-what's to say that during  electrical storm the guy above singles out your flue pipe for a direct hit-I would rather have the juice go into the ground rod first as it's supposed to take the path of least resistance???  If you get a direct hit-probably ALL electrical will be fried???  Anyone had a direct hit?  Please chime in-I'm just a bystander at this time.

15

Plumbing / Re: Question on SDR9 Pex A

« on: April 12, 2014, 06:15:07 AM »

Thanks for all the informative stuff about the water quality and what others have given--my water quality is fairly good--biggest enemy if you chose to call it that would be high IRON content.  I do not choose to install a water softener as what some companies have suggested-as I'm on a septic system and don't want to pump a lot of salt into my tank/field--350' from the lake.  SS/Brass circulators probably will be best choice and most $$ well spent to alleviate future failures-down the road!  This will be a WIP for me-as the OWB has been purchased-waiting for better weather and have to do some site work before slab pouring and install time.  Will try to take some pictures and post them up as work progresses thru the summer.  Want to engineer this properly and not take any short cuts that will compromise maintenance and have failures down the road.  Please keep the suggestions/comments etc. comming!!   Cranky